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#15
by
fatmobile
on 29 Mar, 2011 02:43
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Do you have the max fuel screw turned in?
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#16
by
PAVW
on 29 Mar, 2011 22:24
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The one on the top cover facing the back of the pump? No I havent. How far is it supposed to be in? I did pull the pump back apart and everything seemed where its supposed to go. I will reassemble it again and try to turn it with a airtool or something to see if I can bench test it and get fuel out of the output ports before putting back on the car.
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#17
by
Baron VonZeppelin
on 29 Mar, 2011 22:43
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There is a set screw (threaded rod with locking nut) on both sides of the top cover - that have to be removed for access to get all the bolts out of the top cover. One is idle, one is max throttle limit.
The other short screw with a locking nut - on the backside of the cover - that is the fuel limiting adjustment (smoke screw). You wouldn't have needed to mess with it. Hopefully you did not.
One other possibility is you might have misaligned the splined throttle shaft and splined throttle lever. That is a sensitive alignment. Some are not aware that there are alignment marks until AFTER they have disassembled them.
Let us know if you think you might have messed with the smoke screw or might have missed seeing the throttle alignment marks.
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#18
by
PAVW
on 29 Mar, 2011 23:02
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I did take note of the marks on the linkage. I took a picture of them and then reassembled it as it was. It seems like I have full travel of movement with the linkage after assembly. I did not remove the "smoke" screw. I did not move the other idle and WOT screws either.
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#19
by
Baron VonZeppelin
on 29 Mar, 2011 23:17
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Okay sounds like you're good on all that.
All my pumps so far have to have the idle and limit screws removed first.
I haven't torn down any of the earlier type pumps yet.
Guess they don't need that done first.
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#20
by
fatmobile
on 30 Mar, 2011 04:02
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I have a hellofa time putting the top back on if i don't back the max fuel screw out.
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#21
by
PAVW
on 30 Mar, 2011 09:59
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Yea I dont have to touch the screws to get the cover off. If the pump is pumping fuel out the return ok, but not making pressure out the manifold, could it be the piston clearance in the manufold? Also when I have the lines off of the manifold I shold see fuel coming out of the line ports when turning, right? I heard it will look like a machine gun!
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#22
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 30 Mar, 2011 11:27
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Yep, did that as well. I even towed the car a few miles with the injector nuts loose to bleed it out. No luck. Tonight I pulled the top cover off of the pump and and turned it over to see if anything wasnt turning. Everything is turning, the delivery piston is turning and moving in and out of the distributor manifold. I wonder if the delivery piston is clogged? I know I didnt check to see if it has flow through it. I pulled the pump off and will disassemble it agin and check. Hopefully I can open the pump with out destroying th orings.
if you open the pump, it will need new o-rings unless the ones in it arent that old..
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#23
by
PAVW
on 30 Mar, 2011 20:34
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I replaced all the orings the first time I pulled the pump. I think (hope) they will be fine when I reassemble it.
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#24
by
fatmobile
on 31 Mar, 2011 02:28
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Are you holding it floored while cranking?
You can have plenty of fuel flowing back to the tank,.. but if the max fuel screw isn't turned in,.. or the lever is set on wrong;
there won't be any fuel coming out the ports.
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#25
by
PAVW
on 31 Mar, 2011 21:56
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Yes, I would floor it. I took a picture of the lever before I took it off. The way the mark was indexed on the throttle shaft, it would only go one way and still have proper movement. if that makes sense. I just finished putting the pump back together today and will try to bench test it tomorrow. Hopefully I will see some diffrent results. No where should the max fuel screw be. Shouldnt there be some sort of fuel coming out of the pump regardless of the max fuel screw is at?
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#26
by
Baron VonZeppelin
on 31 Mar, 2011 23:52
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I've never been into the style pump you have.
But when you take the fuel solenoid out of the ones i frequent -
there is a spring, a tube, and an o-ring.
If yours is like that,
take out the spring and the tube - then put the solenoid back onto the pump.
I'd want the solenoid to be "full-on" without doubt during the bench testing. To eliminate it being the malfunction.
If you leave the solenoid out / hole wide open - you might be sucking air/blowing wind through that port.
Good luck on good result
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#27
by
Toby
on 01 Apr, 2011 02:01
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If I were you I would take the car out for a drag with it all put back together. Even if you have to tow it a couple of miles. Leaving the lines loose won't do it. Tow it at a good clip(30) and floor the throttle and eventually it will force the air out and start. Just make sure that you do not have any restrictions or leaks on the suction side of the pump.
It does not take much of an air leak to make it really hard to get enough air out of the fuel system. BTW Leaving the guts out of the fuel solenoid on a pump that you have just had apart sounds like the title of a YouTube video.
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#28
by
Baron VonZeppelin
on 01 Apr, 2011 02:57
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lol
Gutting the solenoid was for his bench test.
That he plans to do first.
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#29
by
PAVW
on 02 Apr, 2011 08:23
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Well an update. I bench tested the pump, I did leave the plunger out of the solenoid when I was testing it. First I used a cordless drill to spin it. Im gettin fuel out of the return but it has alot of fine little bubles, almost foam. I continued to do this for 2 battery on the drill. Still very aerated return line and no fuel out of the manifold. I then wanted to spin it faster, so I started using a 3/8 impact wrench. I figured using a 3/8 impact would net me a good amout of speed and not alot of impact power. I also thougt that once I got the pump turning it would not "impact". I started using this on the nut of the mainshaft and was working fine, still very aerated return and it was just spitting out of the manifold, and not even consistantly. I was turning it for a good 5 minutes and no diffrence. Then towards the end all of a sudden the nut stripped on the shaft. The shaft is now unusable from the damage, and I still think there is a issue in the pump/with the pump that I cant see. Im at my ends wit and now Im looking for another pump. I would look for a rebuildible pump and make 1 good pump out of the two but Im scared to due that I have no idea whats going on with my pump. I may just spring for a rebuilt pump. IT would be worth more than my car , but I really need to get this thing on the road.