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What questions do I ask the machine shop for my rebuild?
by
mtnbob
on 26 Feb, 2011 11:13
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Finally got my tax return money and am ready to take my block to the machine shop. I have already been told that I need to take the pistons with me so they can check the clearances. Is there anything else I need to take with me? Do you typically take the crank, intermediate shaft, and camshaft, to get checked or balanced. I have heard others mention that the passages inside of the crank should be cleaned out. Hot tanking for the block, before and after boring needed? Any thoughts on this or an other suggestions? This is the first time I have ever undertaken a rebuild and I want to get everything right.
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#1
by
Rabbit79
on 26 Feb, 2011 11:24
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The main bearing caps need to go in with it.
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#2
by
rallydiesel
on 26 Feb, 2011 12:23
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I would get the deck checked/planed.
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#3
by
mtnbob
on 26 Feb, 2011 12:35
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Ok, keep them coming, I am writing my list
Is cleaning the passages inside the crank something I should be concerned with?
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#4
by
Dakotakid
on 26 Feb, 2011 14:32
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Connecting rods checked and reconditioned.
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#5
by
maxfax
on 26 Feb, 2011 19:48
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Connecting rods checked and reconditioned.
And if you are opting for the ARP rod bolts have them installed before checking the rods...
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#6
by
mtnbob
on 26 Feb, 2011 20:02
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I hadn't even thought about rod bolts. Can you reuse the original rod bolts? I was considering ARP studs. Are these necessary for a daily driver with stock boost? Can I reuse any of my bolts?
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#7
by
maxfax
on 26 Feb, 2011 20:08
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According to the books, the rod bolts are to be replaced, as well as the crank sprocket bolt, and of course head bolts and flywheel bolts..
However I and many others have reused rod bolts, ad flywheel bolts for that matter.. For my self it was on fairly stock daily drivers...
On my latest engine I had no clue how many times it may have been apart (it was quite the abortion).. I decided to replace rod bolts.. Found a buy on ebay that made the ARP bolts (which are reuseable) almost the same cost as the VW rod bolts...
ARP recomends having the rods checked after installing.. There was a thread on this no too long ago, some people were fine, other needed to have them resized.. Luck of the draw I suppose...
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#8
by
maxfax
on 26 Feb, 2011 23:32
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I never really paid attention till you mentioned it Andrew, Bentley is the only book that does not say to replace them..
The VW service manuals as well as most others say replace them after a certain date in '81, and have different specs for both.. Earlier was a straight 33 ft/lbs, later was 22 ft/lbs + 1/2 turn..
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#9
by
mtnbob
on 01 Mar, 2011 18:03
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Dropped off my block today. The place impressed me with their knowledge of VW diesels. Turns out that there are a few diesel dubbers around my area that I wasn't aware of. They didn't blink when I mentioned the .001 tolerances. They asked me to leave my bentley service manual and said they had no problem making sure it was in spec. They said they would install my intermediate shaft bearings and install the pistons, crank and bearings also if I want them to do that. Unfortunately they are pretty backlogged and I am looking at 3-4 weeks before they will get to it
They had no prob with magnafluxing and checking the block for straightness. They recommended my using top of the line German pistons, seals,bearings , etc.
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#10
by
Rabbit79
on 01 Mar, 2011 21:51
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Don't feel too bad about that.... The machine shop had my block, head and crankshaft for 4 months.
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#11
by
maxfax
on 02 Mar, 2011 06:48
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Just make sure you NEVER tell a machinist, "There's no hurry".. That from the mouth of my machinist....
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#12
by
theman53
on 02 Mar, 2011 06:56
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Just make sure you NEVER tell a machinist, "There's no hurry".. That from the mouth of my machinist....
X2. I was going to put that last night, but for some reason didn't. I have been doing it the other way by telling him "As soon as you can get to it. I am ready to go right now." Still takes a month or so usually.
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#13
by
mtnbob
on 02 Mar, 2011 19:27
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ok thanks for the info
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#14
by
fatmobile
on 03 Mar, 2011 15:48
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The bushings in the small end of the rods will probably need replaced and reamed to fit the piston pins.
Then the ARP rod bolts and the big end gets checked for roundness.
Then they get balanced.
I don't remember if I had to supply the rod bearings before getting the rods balanced.
Oh yeah, and the oil pump has some bushings in the block that can be replaced.