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removing cam followers after TB failure?
by
BigVWman
on 01 Feb, 2011 18:32
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Any suggestions how to remove the cam followers on the valves that had impact during Timing belt failure? Using a magnet i got 5 out but 3 seem stucker than the rest. The way this belt broke all 8 valves had piston contact! They didn't break apart so i'd like to attempt a rebuild if possible.
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#1
by
greentdi
on 04 Feb, 2011 07:03
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drill a hole in it put a slide hammer on it. Or put a screw in it use a pair a vise grips and a hammer
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#2
by
BigVWman
on 04 Feb, 2011 07:59
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Workin on tryin that. I need to get some better drills darn things are very nicely hardened and don't drill well! Thanks
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#3
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 05 Feb, 2011 10:26
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squish the lifter down, and knock the high spots out of the bore with a dremel.. i got a broken lifter out easily with a big C clamp, a socket, and a burr in my dremel..
then you dont have to attempt to drill hardened steel.. its alot cheaper this way, since you dont have to destroy 20 drill bits..
if it just wont come out, no matter what, take a chunk of dowel, or wood, and smack the lifter a few times (assuming it still travels down the bore, make sure the lifter compresses the spring a little, then jumps back up) and by smacking it, it will make a burr on the side of the bore where the metal is deformed, and then you will see where its hanging up.. or it will pop it out of the head if you get lucky.
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#4
by
belchfire
on 05 Feb, 2011 20:38
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Let's hope it's worth rebuilding. I'd be checking it crack-wise and if it's OK then maybe you've got a chance. More than likely there's a bent valve or two (or
. Guides may not be too happy either.
Mechanical followers can tolerate some bore dings but Hyd needs to be clean throughout the groove travel or you'll loose pressure. The main web was cracked on mine so I pinned it with a 1/4-20 set screw & red lock tite. The drill got away from me and I ended up drilling through the oil passage. Patched it with JB Weld and it's been working for the last 1k miles. If you do need a new head, Prothe has new castings. Maybe China-I don't know, but I've had no problems so far. Just make sure that the cam gear in on good. I dutch keyed mine after zeroing it .
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#5
by
BigVWman
on 07 Feb, 2011 07:31
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squish the lifter down, and knock the high spots out of the bore with a dremel.. i got a broken lifter out easily with a big C clamp, a socket, and a burr in my dremel..
then you dont have to attempt to drill hardened steel.. its alot cheaper this way, since you dont have to destroy 20 drill bits..
I will give that a shot, GREAT idea. They will go down just not all the way up i was monkeying with them going down to make sure the valves weren't stuck in the guides or anything! may be able to save this head yet!
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#6
by
oldskool rich
on 10 Feb, 2011 01:17
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i normaly weld an old head bolt to the top then you can just jank it
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#7
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 11 Feb, 2011 09:10
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WTF is dutch keyed?
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#8
by
belchfire
on 11 Feb, 2011 21:18
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I was waiting for someone to ask about that. It's the process where an indexing pin is placed between two mating parts to prevent movement. Each half shares the pin so therefore "Dutch".
To make this happen you get the parts aligned dead nuts then drill & ream (for a pin) or tap (for a set screw) at the joint between the two and insert the pin (screw). This effectively locks the assembly and maintains the alignment. I know that the diesel cams are to be set with the bar and all but after my disaster (see-destroy all lifters posting) I decided to key it. While the timing is critical, it's not a $500,000 indy engine and most other engines have a key and run just fine. It may be a half of a degree out of whack but how many engines are really that close especially after a little belt stretch? Note: I had to cut the tin shroud so that it could be removed as an assembly. No big deal.
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#9
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 12 Feb, 2011 08:01
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I was waiting for someone to ask about that. It's the process where an indexing pin is placed between two mating parts to prevent movement. Each half shares the pin so therefore "Dutch".
To make this happen you get the parts aligned dead nuts then drill & ream (for a pin) or tap (for a set screw) at the joint between the two and insert the pin (screw). This effectively locks the assembly and maintains the alignment. I know that the diesel cams are to be set with the bar and all but after my disaster (see-destroy all lifters posting) I decided to key it. While the timing is critical, it's not a $500,000 indy engine and most other engines have a key and run just fine. It may be a half of a degree out of whack but how many engines are really that close especially after a little belt stretch? Note: I had to cut the tin shroud so that it could be removed as an assembly. No big deal.
a couple of my diesels have the cam sprocket keyed.. it was not dead nuts cam timing, but was close enough not to matter..
the cam sprocket had a keyway, and so did the cam, and i even had a key for them. so i keyed the cam sprocket.
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#10
by
BigVWman
on 14 Feb, 2011 10:51
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I have never encountered a keyed diesel yet. I did try both methods and in this case the tack welding rod bolts worked. After playing with it and removing what i thought were the buggers holding them in they still wouldn't come out. After some welding and persuasion they're out and head is savable but i see now why they were tight. When the valves bent in those cylinders the tops kicked the springs over and were pinching the followers between the spring and head. Definitely some bent valves in there! Thanks for the help!
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#11
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 14 Feb, 2011 10:57
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my head had a squished lifter. like it squished the head off it..
and there were burrs of metal holding it in. no bent valves on mine.
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#12
by
BigVWman
on 15 Feb, 2011 08:17
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My last one did as well and there were some spots from the exploded one that i thought were holding them in but after it finally came apart those pesky bent valves were at the root of it all. Maybe next time i'll get lucky and there won't be any bent valves
