I have the bump stops, but didn't install them. I also have the rear axle beam mounts, but haven't opened that can o' worms yet...and won't if I don't have to. But the rest is prothane and I was really hoping for stiffer. With the clutch I have I don't think it could get much worse on take off so I think I am going to try the engine mounts this summer=warmer than now
I guess driving all the mk1's I have had with whipped control arm bushings make me think that this MK2 is a cadilac and miss some of the bumping and banging.
Last spring I installed a HD rear mount on my mk1 and it shakes the dash so bad cd's skip! Lol however with an mk2.. The rear mount isn't tied directly to the body/firewall area.. So I don't see any reason why you shouldn't do the motor mounts.
Should make the take offs feel a lot more firm.
Control arms, rear axle beam, rear shock mounts and steering rack. I tried the rear tranny mount but it was terrible so I swapped back and tried the front engine mount, it wasn't nearly as bad but I am back to stock......much quieter.
http://store.blackforestindustries.com/g60sorutrmo.htmlThere is this...
The stock trans mount I didn't do since I figured it was ok and more easily replaced than the rear engine mount. The G60 better than stock? Or would the 75.00 BFI poly mount be the ticket? Derlin is way hard I am sure. I still have the hydro front mount on the starter. I figure that one will be the one that is worst on vibration, right?
Love the prothane poly stuff,
been running it for years..
On the Jetta, I even seam welded the new control arms,
to increase rigidity over the stock spot welds.
I totally noticed the difference. (just kidding, could not feel it but I did seam weld them)
Squeaking? You gotta lube them puppies!
Prothane does not really give you enough goop, I just use full synth. grease, so I can be generous and wipe the excess after install.
re: Engine mounts.
a full kit (poly, or stiffer) is quite a commitment.
I did Black Forest Industries' complete green poly kit
on my Mk3 2.0 with a big cam, and it was like a complete shiatsu
massage from idle until about 3500 rpm.
The whole car vibrates to the frequency of the engine,
which can be good or bad.
It is good if you are launching the car, drag race style.
There is no rubber slop at all in the drivetrain.
It is bad when you take a girl out for the first time,
and she asks if you need her to drive because your car "feels broken"..
(really happened)
OP: you said there is some slop in the sway bar bushings?
-Which bushings? (under the subframe or on the control arm?)
-Slop like how?
There are different diameter sway bars from the factory, and you might have a smaller bar?
-Brad
P.S.
The Autotech hollow front swaybar
is the single best suspension modification available for (Mk2/Mk3) for any amount of money.
It's a steal at $169.
Not off topic, as it includes polyurethane bushings.
-Brd
http://store.blackforestindustries.com/g60sorutrmo.html
There is this...
The stock trans mount I didn't do since I figured it was ok and more easily replaced than the rear engine mount. The G60 better than stock? Or would the 75.00 BFI poly mount be the ticket? Derlin is way hard I am sure. I still have the hydro front mount on the starter. I figure that one will be the one that is worst on vibration, right?
I wouldn't touch the bfi stuff and I think streeting delrin anything besides shifter bushings in a diesel vehicle is insane.