noise in 1.9td

[xxkoadyxx]

i got a noise coming from my engine area, has new water pump, alternator, belt for alter.. its sounds as if it might be the tensioner to me, its kinda loud as i rev a little it stops, the car has none if any crank wobble. has 375,000 kms

[8v-of-fury]

poor oil pressure? What weight oil you got in there? Sound like valve tick?

[xxkoadyxx]

i have evern heard vlave tick so i could only imagin.. iv changed oil about 4000kms ago and prob not even burnt half of a 355ml can of pepsi.. i check my oil often and its showing me its at max, is it possable for it to give a false reading or something blocking it (i hope to god not cause that would be bad)

[8v-of-fury]

Well think of it this way, the oil pump is submerged in oil. So for you to have a full reading at the bottom of the system.. I'd say its circulating. Get a mech oil gauge in to the side of the head and see what kinda psi you have up at the last spot of pressurized oil travel. is it possible you used a thin oil?? Like something thinner than *w30? My gf's hydro engine, we put 5w20 in once.. Ticked like crazy. 10w40 and she's running grand..

What weighht oil you got?

[xxkoadyxx]

im running 5w 40 syntic stuff mobile 1..were do i put the gauge exactly? anypics? what do i have to do to do it?

[8v-of-fury]

Hmm 5w40 syn shoulndt be making the lifters tick.. But lack oil might or its not that at all lol.

Oil pressure sender should be the size you need, and it will screw in to the one sender on the drivers side of the head with one wire coming from it.

[xxkoadyxx]

i was thinking it was something to do with my belts or something or the tensioner cause she hops pretty good, but is that the one that is above the coolent flang?

[xxkoadyxx]

which one here? or is it in this pic?

[R.O.R-2.0]

both sensors are pictured..

one is on the drivers side of the head, kinda towards the valve cover. has a black boot with a blue wire coming out.

the other one is on the filter flange, with a boot and a black wire coming off it.

you can un screw either one of those and thread in a gauge... standard NPT works fine for just checking pressure..

if you want a permanent gauge i would get metric threads.. the difference is the NPT threads are tapered, the metric threads are straight.

[8v-of-fury]

He wants to use the top sensor spot, so he can see what psi he is receiving at the head.

What's normal startup pressure at about 30F for a 5w oil?? Just curious

[R.O.R-2.0]

both ports should have the same pressure FWIW..

[8v-of-fury]

In theory. But not if there is a blockage allowing less oil to make it to the top port. Which is the reason he is going to check for psi at the head.

[R.O.R-2.0]

ive never heard of an oil galley restriction just happen.

only reason ive seen the head lose oil pressure is because some retard put there gasket in upside down..

[vanbcguy]

The filter sender is often higher pressure than just about anywhere else - it's DIRECTLY after the oil pump.  After pumping the oil through the block the pressure will be lower - friction being what it is and all.  Not to mention the mains will bleed off some pressure, etc.

One other bonus to using the head for your gauge and leaving the flange sender in place is the stock warning system will still work over 2K RPM.  If you're highway cruising and loose oil pressure for some reason the alarm will still go off and you'll still have a flashing light on your dash in addition to the gauge showing you what is going on.

[Smokey Eddy]

Any kind of hydraulic flow will lose pressure over a distance travelled and especially bends & turns.
There are formulas used extensively in piping engineering to determine what size pump you need to use to get slurry or water or oil or even gas from point A to point B with x number of degrees of turns on the way there.
The x number of degrees obviously directly relates to lost pressure on the way.