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#15
by
hustonr123
on 22 Nov, 2010 18:30
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antrim diesel where are you located? i mite be able to help you if your where i think you are.
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#16
by
jaysen71581
on 23 Nov, 2010 05:49
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Hagerstown Md. and any help would be appreciated lol....
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#17
by
Mark(The Miser)UK
on 23 Nov, 2010 06:13
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Hagerstown Md. and any help would be appreciated lol....
I'm sure you'll be fine, after all, there are many out there who'd love to be pumping/injecting enough fuel to create white smoke 
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#18
by
jaysen71581
on 23 Nov, 2010 10:12
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Yea, its that whole sustaining combustion thing im after lol..
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#19
by
dts67
on 25 Nov, 2010 11:45
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Did you reseal the pump yourself? You can be 180deg out inside the pump, the camplate goes on 2 ways, the key on the plate must line up with the woodruff key slot on the nose of the drive where the pulley goes on.
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#20
by
Mark(The Miser)UK
on 25 Nov, 2010 16:12
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Yea, its that whole sustaining combustion thing im after lol..
Others are repeating what I've already said, do the 180 deg out check, by checking the fuel drip from #1
@#1 TDC[lobes up] This may give you the answer. It's a 15minute job
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#21
by
jaysen71581
on 27 Nov, 2010 10:53
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Professionally rebuilt by a very reputable diesel shop. I havent had a day off yet, i am going to get my stepfather in on this to do the test, i have confirmed that the cam lobes are up and my fly wheel is at tdc..
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#22
by
jaysen71581
on 01 Dec, 2010 06:03
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I did the test that you recommended Mark and you were right about the pump injecting way after TDC, i pulled the pulley off the injection pump but didnt see any identifying marks that would tell me what is TDC for the pump.
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#23
by
theman53
on 01 Dec, 2010 06:17
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Vince Waldon has a pimp timing right up ... I think it is in the FAQ
There is usually a mark on the IP bracket and on the center of the IP towards the belt end that usually gets you close to the .95-1.05 mm area.
to see if the pump is 180 out from the cam you can take the IP sproket nut off and the woodruff key should be pointing to the 10:00 position IIRC.
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#24
by
jaysen71581
on 01 Dec, 2010 14:20
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Negative on the Dial indicator, i can actually do that tomorrow, which hole on that pulley, there are 2 really small ones, where should the woodruff key be in relation to the hole?
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#25
by
burn_your_money
on 01 Dec, 2010 14:26
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woodruff key should align with the #1 delivery valve, which is stamped A on the pump
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#26
by
Mark(The Miser)UK
on 01 Dec, 2010 17:48
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If you had the timing belt off without locking the pump, then the sprocket could have moved as it likes to rest in the wrong place due to internal springs, which is incidentally in a retarded position.
On the pump sprocket is a little notch this should rest in line with a mark on the pump body just behind the sprocket.
It looks like a negative sign, and is in the centre line of the pump body if you were wishing to slice the pump in half to show the workings.
It is only not at 12 '0' clock because the pump is often leaning towards the engine. Technically,the pump could be tilted either towards the engine, or away from it, as long as the sprocket is still aligned with the mark.
The true position is affected by the hidden slot in the pump bracket, that gives only enough swing to get the pump to match up with about 2 or 3 timing belt teeth...
Hope this is clear.
Aligning the marks wil get yo very close to 1mm setting and simply slackening piump whilst running at idle you can swing the pump a little either way to get it running sweet
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#27
by
Toby
on 02 Dec, 2010 00:42
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If you had at least the cam lock plate there would be no question as to cam position. $100 US will get you the lock plate, pin, and dial indicator set up, if you shop around. The pin can be replaced with a 10 mm deep socket but the pin is only $8 or so brand new. Nobody that plays with these cars should be w/o the timing tools at a minimum. Otherwise you just end up chasing your tail.
That being said, a deep socket can be used as a IP sprocket lock pin and a piece of bar stock or the center a Snap-On or similar combination wrench can be used as a cam lock plate in a pinch if you remove the back 2 studs.
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#28
by
jaysen71581
on 02 Dec, 2010 07:37
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Ok today we made a discovery which brings up a new question, i did find the mark on the pulley and there is no question my IP is perfect, and i was looking to see if the crank was in tdc and pulled up a photo of the flywheel, are the NA diesel flywheels different then the td flywheels? the V notch in an NA diesel is 6 degrees off TDC and there is a little dibbit that is TDC, i cant find a picture of the TD at TDC at the flywheel, i rebleed the system and cranked it over and its giving us alittle bit of grayish smoke...
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#29
by
Mark(The Miser)UK
on 02 Dec, 2010 08:03
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Ok today we made a discovery which brings up a new question, i did find the mark on the pulley and there is no question my IP is perfect, and i was looking to see if the crank was in tdc and pulled up a photo of the flywheel, are the NA diesel flywheels different then the td flywheels? the V notch in an NA diesel is 6 degrees off TDC and there is a little dibbit that is TDC, i cant find a picture of the TD at TDC at the flywheel, i rebleed the system and cranked it over and its giving us alittle bit of grayish smoke...
The timing mark and the TDC mark on an n/a or TD are on top of each other. That is why the symbols used for the later stuff are an O and a line on top of each other. A gasser flywheel may have an 0 and a line either 3 or 6 degrees away. It sounds like the v notch represents the timing, for a gasser but, is there something else marked on the flywheel?
With cam locked what does your flywheel say? I suspect that as your engine is still rotating, cam to crank/flywheel is correct. Pump is timed to the gasser mark. Just change the pump to the TDC mark , and drive away...