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IP Drive Shaft Seal
by
tripseven
on 28 Oct, 2010 20:10
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Is it possible to replace the IP drive shaft seal without taking the pump apart? If so, how do I get the old seal off the pump? Its a 107A pump, 17mm shaft for an NA on a 1982 Caddy.
Many thanks!
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#1
by
rabbitman
on 28 Oct, 2010 20:59
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Yup it can be done........I've heard. You just gotta reach in there with something strong that won't break when you pry on it. It's also easy to nick the IP body around the seal.
Somewhere is a write up on how to do it, I think it involved modifying a screwdriver.
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#2
by
Vincent Waldon
on 28 Oct, 2010 21:22
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Whadda ya know... it's in the FAQ, under the "VE Pump Info" section, labeled "pump resealing".
Picture of said modified screwdriver, even. ;-)
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#3
by
tripseven
on 28 Oct, 2010 21:40
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Thanks for the help
Should have looked at FAQ first...thanks Vince
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#4
by
Vincent Waldon
on 28 Oct, 2010 21:44
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No worries...it was only easy for me to find 'cause I remember Tyler putting it there. ;-)
I've done the front seal with a modified screwdriver a couple of times... I grind mine into a bit more of a hook, and then use a heavy Crescent wrench as a "slide hammer" on the shaft of the screwdriver to tap the seal out.
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#5
by
Smokey Eddy
on 28 Oct, 2010 23:28
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If you live anywhere near me i have a new seal you can have for a couple bucks.
The lack of our locations beside our posts is driving me nuts.
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#6
by
tripseven
on 29 Oct, 2010 08:12
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I had a seal kit laying around, shaft seal included, for just this purpose. I was planning on replacing all the seals but still too chicken to dive in deep since the pump works pretty good. Im in Olympia, WA (added to my profile) but thanks for the offer Ed.
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#7
by
damac
on 29 Oct, 2010 08:42
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I did this to my clunkers pump while off a month or so ago and when I reinstalled it, it was puking fuel from the front and it wouldn't even start

I think the old rock hard seal was masking shaft play because I could wobble the shaft side to side allot with the new seal and pulley installed.
Makes me wonder if all cars with 200,000 miles on them need to be rebuilt or if somebody had the timing belts too tight. My intermediate bearings were flaked apart and in the oil pump screen/pan as well.
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#8
by
tripseven
on 29 Oct, 2010 17:30
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That little screw driver tip worked excellent! Well...havent run it yet to check for leaks but the hook idea from Vince worked great since it didnt mare the bore. Plus, the cresent wrench for a slide hammer was key since the seal was stuck in there really tight and would tear the flange with just the mod'ed screw driver by hand.
Thanks Damac for tipping me to check for play at the shaft with seal removed! Had no play so hopefully Im good to go.