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Exhaust manifold, it's studs, and the mounting bolts OH MY
by
Vangruver
on 12 Oct, 2010 23:36
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So, I drove to california from Vancouver canada. Drove my diesel down no problems, drove through Northern Ca no problem, drove highway 299 from Redding to Eureka Ca [BTY its one of the BEST roads I've ever driven] No problem.
Now driving north on I5 out of portland the car starts making a ticking sound. Now it couldn't have been the injectors because the car was running progressively better as I drove.
So pulled over in a rest area, and pull the hood. With the engine running, on idle it sounded fine. But as I pulled the pump lever smoke was coming up from the turbo-ish area.
SO yeah, i wasn't sure what was wrong? Did the manifold break? Doubt it. However I did notice that when i was driving through the mountain passes the car gets really warm....didn't think too much of it because as i was decending and cruising along the flats the water temp was below mid way mark.
So i drive the car through the border and go to the closest shop that i know works on VW's specifically.
Put the car on a hoist, and noticed that the lower line of bolts.....the middle two were missing the studs and bolts! now WTF? I just had the exhaust studs and bolts replaced and repaired..and drove for almost 5000km with nothing, but all of a sudden they go missing?
Now what can I do to repair and prevent this problem from happening again?
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#1
by
CRSMP5
on 13 Oct, 2010 00:54
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studs gone or broken off into head??
turbo manifold warped.. popped the non turbo studs/hardware you had installed is my guess.. na vs turbo the washers/studs and nuts are different.. and much more spendy..
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#2
by
Vangruver
on 13 Oct, 2010 01:00
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studs gone or broken off into head??
turbo manifold warped.. popped the non turbo studs/hardware you had installed is my guess.. na vs turbo the washers/studs and nuts are different.. and much more spendy..
studs completely lost.
I managed to drive it to a small shop by the border, and make shifted a bolt to get hold the mani down temporarily.
***ty thing is, i need a hoist to get under the car substantially enough to repair it. OR find a friend with 4 jack stands...at least if i do all that then i can replace the exhaust with the 2.5 inch that I have.
so which is it that are better? the NA or the Turbo washer/studs?
I don't mind spending the money....i just want a part that will actually hold and last.
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#3
by
Powered by Spearco
on 13 Oct, 2010 01:04
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Can you see what kind of hardwear was used? Were the nuts, used exhaust nuts or new or were they just standard nuts and lock washers?
I've fixed that kind of problem many times.
I pull off the intake to gain full access to the ex. mainifold hardwear. Yeah you can do it with it on, but I like it off. More room.
Unbolt the ex. man. and double nut the remaining studs and unscew them and replace them the same way by double nuts tightened together. You can use anti sease or leave them dry. Just get them tight, with out stripping
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Clean both the head mating surface and both the manifolds. Replace gaskets and fasten the ex. man.first then the intake. Done.
My 2 cents.
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#4
by
Vangruver
on 13 Oct, 2010 01:34
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I might be technical in some forms of the VW world, but in regards to the diesel, I haven't worked on it myself what so ever. I had my technician at the VW shop I was at work on it 3 months ago.
I wasn't supervising the procedure what so ever, so I'm not even sure that the tech had ordered all new mani studs for the repair. He could have done so in a manner that was budget friendly.
I do want to do this right.
I have a feeling that I'll be taking a trip to the parts supply place in the next couple days. Driving my car to my parents, where all my tools are, and doing as was suggested.
Do i need a tourque wrench to ensure this is right? or can i tighten till they are "tight" and 1/8 to 1/4 turn for proper fitment?
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#5
by
Vangruver
on 13 Oct, 2010 01:35
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You need to be sure to use the special extra-thick washers. Assuming you *did* use them, then the next step would be to triangulate the turbo to the block.
and what is this "triangulate" you speak of?
am i preparing for war?
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#6
by
Powered by Spearco
on 13 Oct, 2010 02:11
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He's talking about the way its bolted to the block. If there was any brackets that were not reused from before, that could be the reason it came loose.
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#7
by
theman53
on 13 Oct, 2010 07:53
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I ususally get the nuts as tight as possible. I have broken some bolts in my time, but especially on this app. I would take it almost to breaking. I am sure the bentley has a spec and whatever that is you can use if you want. I would just get them as tight as a 1/4" drive will get it.
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#8
by
Smokey Eddy
on 14 Oct, 2010 17:52
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Locking washers are your friend. I had this problem in the worst sense possible.
My entire IP bracket came off while i was driving almost causing catastrophic valve to piston collision.
I replaced as much hardware as i could get my greasy mits on and put locking washers on EVERYTHING. no more loose bolts!
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#9
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 18 Oct, 2010 13:13
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Locking washers are your friend. I had this problem in the worst sense possible.
My entire IP bracket came off while i was driving almost causing catastrophic valve to piston collision.
I replaced as much hardware as i could get my greasy mits on and put locking washers on EVERYTHING. no more loose bolts!
lock washers are a waste of time on the exhaust.. they heat up one time, loose their springyness, and then there just normal washers with a small slit in the side..