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#165
by
RadoTD
on 25 Jan, 2011 14:50
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Heh... well I think I found my problem. This is what it looked like when I pulled it apart. None of the 3 small gears were on the pins they're supposed to be on
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#166
by
Powered by Spearco
on 25 Jan, 2011 19:38
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Well, that was one of the nicer gear reduction starters. Looks like you need a starter.
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#167
by
RadoTD
on 26 Jan, 2011 21:01
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Got a new starter, swapped it in.
Lovely thing happens now though, when I connect the battery, without the key even near the ignition, the tail lights come on. And my solenoid trigger wire is now constant 12V. And some relays go trippy under my dash when I put the key in. Yay.
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#168
by
Thezorn
on 26 Jan, 2011 21:42
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I know one time when I had my taillight out when I was changing the bulbs I put the wiring harnesses onto the wrong spots when I put them back in. This changed pretty much all the switched 12v in my car to constant 12v and made my headlights and tailights stay on. It was a weird thing to figure out and killed me for a few hours. If you had your taillights out maybe check this?
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#169
by
RadoTD
on 26 Jan, 2011 21:58
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I never touched the taillights.. it's something along those lines though. A circuit is getting excited that shouldn't be... I just have no idea where from
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#170
by
Powered by Spearco
on 26 Jan, 2011 22:09
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Whats the condition of the Ign. Swt.
Its a Corrado right. Let me guess, the fuse box has done whats called the belly flop. Corrados are known for their electrical problems.
Unplug the Ign. Swt. and try hot wiring it and see if that fixes it?
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#171
by
RadoTD
on 26 Jan, 2011 22:13
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Ign switch is brand new. I had the column pulled apart anyway, so I threw a brand new OEM switch in. Unplugging it still leaves the taillights on
When I jump the solenoid straight from the starter, it doesn't even click anymore. For a while, the starter solenoid wire was giving me 12V any time the battery was connected, so that may have fried the starter solenoid...
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#172
by
Powered by Spearco
on 26 Jan, 2011 22:15
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Check the condition of relay posision #4 controll #18. Its the X realy or load reduction relay. Maybe it went tits up.
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#173
by
Powered by Spearco
on 26 Jan, 2011 22:18
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So if the starter signal is hot at all times when the battery is connected then the starter should be energized and turning over right?
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#174
by
RadoTD
on 26 Jan, 2011 22:37
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So if the starter signal is hot at all times when the battery is connected then the starter should be energized and turning over right?
Starter signal isn't hot anymore and noting turned over. I'm pretty tired right now though, I'm going to clean up outside and leave it until I can think more clearly.
I thought someone else needed my back up vehicle, but it turns out they can't even drive in Canada, so I don't have quite as much pressure right now
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#175
by
RadoTD
on 30 Jan, 2011 16:27
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It lives
Lots of white smoke, I'll have to advance the timing a bit. Gonna put it's face back on and drive it up and down my back lane!
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#176
by
truckinwagen
on 30 Jan, 2011 18:43
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hooray!
thats such a good feeling isn't it?
-Owen
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#177
by
RadoTD
on 30 Jan, 2011 20:01
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Haha yes, feels very good to drive it again and have my first engine rebuild sputter to life!
P/S wasn't working on that short drive, not sure why, but that's minor in the large scheme. Tuesday I'll spend getting the timing set right, readjust my shifter, get it through AirCare (smog) and other misc things.
Going away with SmokeyEddy for a few days starting Thursday, then it'll be back to my daily when I get home from that!
Oh how I've missed you, dear Corrado!
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#178
by
Thezorn
on 30 Jan, 2011 20:18
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How did you do your oil pressure and return lines to your second turbo? are they linked to the k14 or separate? This is one thing Im not sure on.
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#179
by
RadoTD
on 30 Jan, 2011 22:13
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How did you do your oil pressure and return lines to your second turbo? are they linked to the k14 or separate? This is one thing Im not sure on.
For oil feed, I got a banjo bolt off my flange and welded a -4 JIC fitting to it. Also got turbo to JIC fittings for the oil feed on both turbos. Between that, I got some push on hose rated for 150*C at 250psi. Nice and flexible, no need to crimp. I was thinking of going with stainless, but this was easier.
For the return, I welded a -8 JIC male fitting into my oil pan and got a 1/2" NPT flange for the turbo, then ran the same push on hose between the two. I'll take pics of it all soon