Hoping to beging putting the TD back together soon so a question seperate from the build thread.
This will be my first real rebuild, so any tips or tricks appreciated. Have assembly lube!
I opted for ARP hardware for mains, rods, and head bolts. I recall seeing posts about different torque specs for the ARP head bolts when using the ARP supplied lube. Do I need to do anything special on any of these three areas or just stick to the Bentley?
Thanks,
Bill
Stick with what ARP tells you.
Except the head bolts. If you have the VW new ones I have no clue. The Cogsworth old ones that everyone is using before. Here is a thread that I will link that has "zukgod1 head torquing procedure" I went to 105lbs with my head bolts. I have an MLS 1.9L HG and wanted to make sure it was crushed good.
I turned my block heater on 2 times and let cool each time before torquing. Took a couple days, but I don't have any issues in 800 plus miles.
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=21182.15 about mid page you'll see zuk's procedure. I did it very similar, but instead of running the engine I used a block heater so no combustion forces were on the HG
I have the new ARP VW Diesel bolts. I guess not a lot of real world experience on them yet?
Was going to swap to the TDI timing sprocket, but my machinist did not think it a wise choice to modify the end of the crank, and starting to loose serious amounts of free time to work, so I will be going with a new 1.6TD sprocket. Sticking with a v-belt arrangement so I imagine this will be fine.
Good idea about using the block heater to heat cycle the thing. I will be installing a new block heater as well.
The TDi crank sprocket is never a bad idea, but its prully not that necessary on a 1.6TD.. the AAZ and tdi engines are the ones that got the crank wobble..
Agreed, you should be fine on a 1.6, but there's also no danger in machining your crank nose to fit a new pulley.