Questions on an alternate way of mounting a vnt-15 - IDI Engine - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
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Questions on an alternate way of mounting a vnt-15 by bvanetten on 02 Oct, 2010 19:23
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I have a 1.6 installed in my 4x4. 1.6 mated to a toyota tranny (W56 5 speed). I used an ACME VW to Toyota adapter kit and in doing so you use a toyota starter. The starter is in the way of the vnt-15
. Garret/VW's decision to make the manifold and the turbo one piece (at least in the states) is causing me issues! I'm not comfortable sourcing a european version of this that is seperated, although that would probably work the best. I've looked at this 15 different ways and the only thing I can come up with is to build a manifold that would allow me to mount the turbo perpendicular to the block and away from the block a bit. I can re-clock the turbo in it's housing to allow for proper oil flow but I don't know what the extra distance and longer than normal manifold runners will do to the potential output of the turbo. My idea is to have two manifold flanges made and use mile steel tube bent at a 90 degree angle to connectg the to.
Here is the rig
http://s289.photobucket.com/albums/ll216/bvanetten/sami/?action=view¤t=24368178284_ORIG.jpg
Here is where the starter is
http://s289.photobucket.com/albums/ll216/bvanetten/sami/?action=view¤t=24368178310_ORIG.jpg
Here is how I am thinking of mounting the turbo
http://s289.photobucket.com/albums/ll216/bvanetten/sami/?action=view¤t=24368178353_ORIG.jpg
Here is the manifold flange I'm thinking of making
http://s289.photobucket.com/albums/ll216/bvanetten/sami/?action=view¤t=24368178385_ORIG.jpg
Opinions welcome. Or if anyone has a better idea I'm all ears. -
#1 by 410 on 02 Oct, 2010 21:10
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I used a gt1749va off of a b5.5 passat. It is no part of the exhaust manifold. I used an exhaust manifold off of a 1.9 aaz that had the triangular flange and made an adapter plate to clock it properly. These turbos are readily available on our side of the pond. I paid $400 for a good used one. Everything worked out really well. Feel free to pm me if you want more details.
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#2 by bvanetten on 02 Oct, 2010 22:40
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410, all I'm finding online are turbo/manifold one piece units for the GT1749VA or B.
libbybapa, nice fine on the header flange. I just might get a couple. I thought about flipping the turbo like you suggested and you are right, it would require spacers to clear the intake manifold. I need to measure to find out how much spacer. flipping it would make for some interesting exhaust and charge plumming.
clocking the turbo is not that bad really. You are limited to 3 fixed positions due to the pinning unless you drill more pin holes like you suggest. I've already clocked it to adjust for mounting it like I have pictured. I'll mess with clocking it for a flipped upside down position and see if it will work.
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#3 by 410 on 03 Oct, 2010 07:33
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I had come across this style of turbo on ebay but was not signed up at the time. I placed a wtb add on here and tdi club and had several responses in a day. I had to clock it on the manifold I used and rotate the center cartridge as well. I drilled a new hole for the tiny pin and everything fit really well. The turbo sits right where they do on the mk2. Have a look at the pics in my toyota truck thread in the tdi section. This turbo only came on the b5.5 passat with the pd130 in North America in this style. And if your brave, I've seen cheap chinese turbos in this design. I prefer a used authentic one myself.
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#4 by bvanetten on 03 Oct, 2010 15:36
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410, nice work on the Toyota. I've contemplated starting over with a TDI but I have a tone of work into this 1.6, I don't have it in my to start over. Plus, this 1.6 should be able to get the job done.
I'm liking the idea of mounting the turbo manifold upside down.I'm gonna need about 3 inches of spacer to push the manifold away from the head to allow for the intake manifold to fit.
http://s289.photobucket.com/albums/ll216/bvanetten/sami/?action=view¤t=24396036988_ORIG.jpg
I'm gonna need about 3 inches of spacer to push the manifold away from the head to allow for the intake manifold to fit.
http://s289.photobucket.com/albums/ll216/bvanetten/sami/?action=view¤t=24396036995_ORIG.jpg
After clocking the turbo center piece the best angle I can get for the oil feed and drain given the limited positions available without custom drilling and tapping is about 50 degrees. Is this enough of an angle? I'm thinking that the oli feeding the turbo is at pressure so I wouldn't think it would affect it much.
http://s289.photobucket.com/albums/ll216/bvanetten/sami/?action=view¤t=24396037067_ORIG.jpg
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#5 by RabbitJockey on 03 Oct, 2010 19:10
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yeah or just run a different turbo and manifold all together
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#6 by bvanetten on 03 Oct, 2010 20:09
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I would love to have a euro vnt and proper seperate manifold and just bolt it on. That would be the best option, but I don't. I'll continue to look for that combo and if the price is right get it.
On the other hand, $150 in supply's and a weekend I could fab up a manifold to position this vnt 15 properly. Hmm, decisions. -
#7 by R.O.R-2.0 on 05 Oct, 2010 12:33
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cut the manifold off the VNT you have now, weld on a flange, then use whatever manifold places it in the right spot.
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#8 by bvanetten on 05 Oct, 2010 20:53
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I've thought about it but welding cast iron is hit and miss at best. If we knew exactly what the ingredients were for the manifold then it would be easier because we could determine exactly what type of welding rod to use. Without that knowledge it is a crapshoot it hte weld will hold or not.
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#9 by R.O.R-2.0 on 06 Oct, 2010 11:30
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there was a user on here who successfully cut the flange off one turbo and welded it to a different turbo, i think he was retro fitting a suby WRX turbo on a diesel..
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#10 by R.O.R-2.0 on 06 Oct, 2010 12:20
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lots of people say you cant weld cast, but if you let it cool slowly, usually it retains its strength..
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#11 by bvanetten on 06 Oct, 2010 18:33
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Yep, I've seen welded cast last for years and other welded cast crack within weeks. I really think it's a crap shoot at to what you end up with. You could be the best welder in the world and have cast crack on you. I've always said, I'd rather be lucky than good.
In the spirit of keeping stock parts "mostly" stock I've going to avoid cutting up this manifold for now. -
#12 by bvanetten on 23 Oct, 2010 17:09
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Ok, turbo is mounted. I got a couple of those 8v header flanges and fabbed up an exhaust manifold extension. The runners are made from 1 3/4 .120 wall roll cage tubing. I would have perfered to have it bent but I don't have access to a bender right now. I'm sure the sharp angles arn't helping me but this is really a proof of concept and it it works like I hope it will I'll have some tube bent up and redo the header.
Turbo is mounted upside down at about a 30 degree angle to ensure proper oil drainage. Running exhaust is going to be a challenge. Automating the VNT vanes will be challanging also.
Took it for a spin arond the block and it runs 100% better than the t3 that was on it. I get more boost, lower in the rpm range and at least 300 degrees cooler pyro temps. This is going to be a winner. I'm thinking of just rulling a manual cable to the VNT actuator for now. We'll see, it is just a toy after all.
All in all a preaty cheap setup.
http://s289.photobucket.com/albums/ll216/bvanetten/sami/?action=view¤t=25280839285_ORIG.jpg
http://s289.photobucket.com/albums/ll216/bvanetten/sami/?action=view¤t=25280839303_ORIG.jpg
http://s289.photobucket.com/albums/ll216/bvanetten/sami/?action=view¤t=25280839242_ORIG.jpg
http://s289.photobucket.com/albums/ll216/bvanetten/sami/?action=view¤t=25280839332_ORIG.jpg
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#13 by rabbitman on 23 Oct, 2010 19:26
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Well that's definitely an alternate way of mounting!!
As long as it works good then use it.......the turbo could use some bracing with it sticking out there so far.