After installing the bearings I thought I'd throw the shaft in and noticed it was quite tough to turn, I actually had to rubber mallet the thing a couple times just to get it in all the way. Normal?
After installing the bearings I thought I'd throw the shaft in and noticed it was quite tough to turn, I actually had to rubber mallet the thing a couple times just to get it in all the way. Normal?
Not really. With the pulley installed, you should be able to rotate the shaft (via the pulley) by hand. If not, you've got (or will have) problems. It can be snug with some tension, but not tight. You have to remember, that the only thing driving the pulley is tension from the timing belt. If you run the belt too tight, you'll kill the bearings. I'd double check that your bearings are not ream-to-fit. Some of them are, in which case you'll have to ream the bearings to get the correct fit (that's how it was done at the factory).
Hmm, good to know. There bearings came from Myke so I assumed they were ready to go. Are there reams available for these bearings or is there another way to open them up a bit?
I'm not sure what Myke carries. I use the DUROBOND and they work well. They're a little snug, but the shaft still spins.
If you need to ream them, you'd need one HELL of a reamer. This work was done at the factory. You might try a local machinist, or make sure you installed the bearings properly.
crap, that's what i was hoping to avoid. I might just order a new set and see if I can have them pre-reamed outside of the block. I really don't want to bring it to a machine shop. I should really have checked the diameter on the shaft while the bearings were out.
Is it possible something could have squished during install?
I had to press mine in and i was equally worried.
I made a post with an IDENTICAL topic name
matybe i'll find it...
but anyways... get it all together and fill it with oil and then take the vacc pump out, spin the oil pump with a drill.
I think a 12mm or 11mm deep socket works well (maybe its 13mm) and then get out your strongest drill and spin the IM shaft. You may even need to use a wratchet or breaker bar at first. if you have two drills and a friend it works really really well to spin both the shaft and the oil pump at the same time.
i spun my IM shaft for abotu 3 minutes. Or until the drill gets too warm for comfort.
I started it up and the belt didn't slip on the pulley.
haha, I'm following in your footsteps Ed, hopefully not the exact same ones though
I think I've got it sorted, a light hone and it's spinning now, not easy by hand without the pulley on but once it's lubed up it'll be fine.
Thanks guys
Yupp, mine was stiff as a ... until i got a few revolutions on it.