No Fuel Out Checkvalves

[rallydiesel]

Also, like you mentioned a couple posts ago, if the governor axis is turned too far into the pump, it will prevent the throttle levers from increasing fuel.

[ORCoaster]

Rally,

That sleeve, the entire governor portion of the pump and the vane pump seem to be free as a bird when it comes to operation.  When I had the pump apart I could spin the whole front end with my thumb and fingertips.  Didn't even need the pulley on the shaft and the whole thing was buzzing with the internal workings.  When I took the gov cap off, must have done this at least 6 times now, I am able to flick that sleeve with my finger and if moves freely. 

I compare that with the second pump my son sent me and it is like day and night.  That WVO gunk in, on and throughout the pump is just a sticky coating everywhere and I have to pull, pry and dissolve moving parts apart.  So I know stuck.  Funny thing, that pump still worked just like the one I am trying to cobble together.

Will keep trying later today.  Have some other office, yard work, then car to do today,  and oh yeah, it is a holiday right?  Well maybe not north of the border.

[fatmobile]

So you removed the accelerator lever to set it on a different spline but decided you liked the way it "felt" and didn't change it,..
 and it does the same thing?
 hmmm.

[ORCoaster]

Well, when you put it that way it sounds pretty bad.  One of those if you always do what you did don't expect different results kind of thing.  But I did do "stuff"  different and it didn't make any difference.

Hear tell.  I removed the levers and did as Andrew suggested. Twist counterclockwise until I could feel the pressure of the springs as resistance.  I looked at the markings I had for my past alignment and they were just spot on.  So I started the car.  Remember it idles but won't accelerate.  Once it is sort of putt putting along I get out and turn the shaft with a small sized pair of pliers.  Full counterclockwise to simulate full throttle.  What do I get?  Nada.  So I return the mark on the shaft to the mark on the body of the pump and the engine is still putting along.  So I turn it the other way.  Result?  Car dies.   

I did it twice and figured that the lever position isn't the problem here because I can make it do worse by taking them off and getting it to go below idle and full wide open and there is no change to my problem.   

So, I got the result I had before but not because I just removed the levers and put them back on when I "felt" the position was as good as it was supposed to be. 

It is raining tonight and getting darker sooner so no playing with the bunny.  I will have to start leaving work early I think in order to get any time before the weekend to solve problems.  Just the same keep those thinking caps on.  Wrap a little more aluminum foil on those noodle strainers for me will ya?

[fatmobile]

Damn, I wish I could help you figure this out.
I'm out of suggestions,.. for now.

I was thinking the fuel was being limited by a max fuel screw that wasn't turned in far enough or lever on the wrong splines.

Only thing else I can think of is timing 180 degrees out.

Pin inside pump lines up with keyway on shaft right?

Since fuel comes out the delivery valves now;
 turn the pump and see if it pumps out the right hole at the right time.

[burn_your_money]

Next time you have the top off the pump verify that the center piece that is pushed out by the flyweights is moving freely. If it can idle it probably is free though. Also, take a picture of the insides and post it just in case something is a-miss. Take a picture of the bottom half of the pump and also take a picture of the governor spring assembly. Did you say you swapped the governor from one pump to another? If you did, put the original one back in the pump.

Try putting the throttle lever on upside down and keep turning it until it won't turn anymore, then lift it off and put it back on in the idle position without turning the shaft, then turn it until it stops. Basically what you are doing is maxing out the shafts rotation internally, not on any of the stops on the pump.

[rallydiesel]

If this shaft is turned too far into the pump, it will not increase fuel properly.

[kingler5]

If this shaft is turned too far into the pump, it will not increase fuel properly.

Before I disassembled my pump that now has the same problem, I noted that shaft as being approximately flush with its nut. I installed it back the same way guesstimating it to be flush the same way before I took it apart. How sensitive is that to the fueling? You were saying it can nullify all throttle positions if too far in? What happens if it is too far out?

[mtrans]

Try this parhaps
The second photo has a red arrow showing the gauze inlet to the high pressure piston. It was completely blocked with brown gunk. The result was I could start the engine but had no power and had to crawl home at 20kmh
http://www.biofuelsforum.com/svo_users/4038-injector_pump_blocked_gunge.html
This is for WvO,but same as for disel.I save a pump by this and It never see WVo. Best

[ORCoaster]

TA DA!

While this site was down I got the speed up on the pesky critter.  I know there are several threads that seems to die here after the solution it found and we have little to no idea what made it work.

So to report what all of you may have thought or read here this is what I finally ended up doing to get fuel out the check valves.

I bought another pump.  Just kidding, I am so cheap I would never do that.  This problem was solved by your great suggestions and my persistence that rebuilding this thing can not be that difficult.  Just tedious.

So to summarize:
I had one IP that was running great but was leaking like a sieve so I tried replacing the seals.  In doing that I broke the rotor and ordered another.  After reassembly I had plenty of fuel racing around the pump and out the banjo to the tank.  None coming out the injector ports.  I adjusted all kinds of things and still no luck.

My son owned a rabbit and he sent me an IP that was sitting on his garage shelf for the last few years because it wouldn't allow him to run more than 50 MPH.  And how many of us are satisfied doing that?  Not my boy.  Mister turbocharged Miata Man.  He ran WVO in the car being cheaper than his old man and the pump was pretty nasty inside and out.  I figured that I could use his rotor and base in the better pump and save some time in doing so.  That allowed the car to idle but not accelerate. 

So I decided to soak the rest of his pump and clean it up and put the whole thing in as a unit to see if I could get past 50 MPH.  I ended up tearing it apart twice because the vanes were sticking and no pressure or fuel was being pumped out to the tank or being drawn from it either.
Once I got the power screw turned in a bit, the timing set right and the governor screw at the right place it ran fairly well.  We have a couple long hills with passing lanes on them north of town and I tried getting the car to 60 up them.  No Dice.  So I pulled that spring in the front out of the first pump and swapped it in place of the one my son had it there.  I had the silver he had the red.  I dropped out one of the shims as well.  Then I hillbilly tuned it, and took it out for a hill climb.  And boy does it haul it now.  I noticed the RPMs between shifts do not drop much and that is real smooth for the transition and that it seems to stay in the power band.  If such a thing even exists for a 53 hp engine. 

So my solution was kind of two fold.  Replaced the pump and did some mods on it for getting it to go as it should.

Now for a couple of loose ends in the thread.  I purchased a new rotor that I felt was wacked.  I sent it back and was sent a brand new one that I hope to put in the original pump to see if it will work.  Life is getting complicated right now so time for that will have to wait.  But I think in all fairness to the eM.....com folks they did replace the part as they said they would. 

I took pictures but I don't think they are needed at this point.  The pump was never 180 degrees out of time.  The key way always aligned with the little tab for the rotor pump inside.  I think if I get the time to rebuild the pump I will be checking the way the governor is being struck by the push rod.  I think it was keeping the whole thing choked down.

If I forgot any answers here speak up.  Otherwise this thread is closed for awhile.  If I get the second pump up and running I may hold on to it, mod it and potentially sell it.  As in the last several weeks the car has now developed a leak at the front of the head as the corner bolt is broken.  Next up drill and extract that bad nasty.  Hope it is something I can get a pair of vice grips on and be done with it in a day.  I hate drilling next to aluminum.

Thanks for all the help.  I have over 300 miles on the first tank of fuel and am still looking at a little over a quarter of a tank left.

Later DAS