Isuzu I-Mark diesel

[maxfax]

I think that modifying the hinges to make the rear of the hood sit 2-3 inches higher would do the trick, which would double as a way to keep underhood temps down.

Once suggestion if you take that route..  Make some variety of filler panel to go across the back of the hood.. Nothing worse than having a radiator hose blow on the highway and having 2 gallons of antifreeze blow on to your windshield...  Or on you if the windows are down...

[truckinwagen]

ok, so for the supercharger bracket/manifold I need to make it out of steel(not ideal, but I dont have the ability to weld aluminum right now)

so I am trying to decide what thickness of mild steel to make it out of, I am thinking that 3/16" will do nicely if I am careful to weld in such a way to keep heat down(stitch weld like you would for body panels) jumping around to minimize warpage.

what do you all think?

I will try to make a mock up out of cardboard this weekend to iron out the clearance issues.

-Owen

[truckinwagen]

well, here the manifold is in paper:







I will test fit the pattern in the engine bay tomorrow to see if there are clearance issues and make changes as needed.

and then I will go get some 3/16" plate and start cutting!

-Owen

[truckinwagen]

well, test fit worked out well, and the prototype fits without modifications!

so on monday I will go get some steel plate(all the steel vendors here are closed weekends) and start working on it!

-Owen

[theman53]

Bottle cap and calipers...you knew this was going to work. You set it up for success before you started LOL!
Great job.

[maxfax]

I think I cam smell tire smoke already!!   

[truckinwagen]

well, my new alternator came in today.

and its the wrong one...
it has a different connector, and does not have the drive on the back for the vacuum pump.

so I will look tomorrow to see if it will bolt up right, and if I can change the connector to make it work.
I am not too worried about the vac pump drive, as I was going to swap to manual brakes anyway, but I was hoping to have some more time before I had to do that.

-Owen

[truckinwagen]

well, no dice on the new alternator, it is externally regulated, while my old one was internally regulated.

the regulator wiring is convoluted at best, and trying to figure out how to make an external regulator work with my car would take too much time, and I need to stop driving my uncles pickup ASAP(gets 10MPG on a good day) so I broke down, and ordered another alt.

this one I am confident is the right one, but cost $250(ouch)
should be here wednesday, and then I will be back on top.

-Owen

[RabbitJockey]

voltage regulators are not very complicated to make work, but u already have found a solution

[truckinwagen]

I was not too worried about making the voltage regulator work, as I was doing that and maintaining the wiring to the warning light"brain" in this car which apparently is wired directly into the alternator.

with the alt not wired in all, and I mean all, of the warning lights, as well as the "master warning" light and buzzer come on.

the wiring diagrams are a little vague about the wiring of the little warning controller.
I would hate to have a working alt, but not working warning lights, so I just got the right replacement alt, that will talk to the brain properly.

-Owen

[R.O.R-2.0]

that kinda seems like a complicated engine operating system...

[truckinwagen]

oh, it will run without all of it, and the analog gauges for oil pressure, water temp, voltage, etc still work without it, but the warning lights, buzzers are controlled by a little brain.

that is what allows the warning system to know when a glow plug has died, etc...

I really like the warning system on this car, and will probably have no problems with tinkering with it when I find a good wiring diagram.

as for the alt, I installed the proper one and all is well!

I left the vac pump off as the seal between it and the old alt had failed and dumped lots of oil into the alt(I dont want that to happen again) so it takes a bit of boot to use the brakes, but they are still sufficient without the booster.

at some point I will install a smaller diameter master cylinder to make braking a bit easier, but that can wait until it is warmer out.

-Owen

[theman53]

I need to replace my master cylinder. I think it was from giving it the big boot when the vac pump wasn't working the best and it damaged the seals. I am just guessing, maybe it being old as dirt had something to do with it too. Just something else to thing about maybe.

[maxfax]

I really like the warning system on this car, and will probably have no problems with tinkering with it when I find a good wiring diagram.

I have diagrams for that on Alldata.. They're not overly spectacular, but maybe they'll help..

Glow plug system is here http://s295.photobucket.com/albums/mm124/maxfax3/Imark/gp%20system/

Dash cluster is here http://s295.photobucket.com/albums/mm124/maxfax3/Imark/cluster/

Lemme know if you need for anything else..  I didn't forget about the intercooler either. just have been slammed with work....

[truckinwagen]

cool, thanks for those!

I figured life got in the way with the intercooler, its totally cool, I havent gotten any closer to needing it in the last few weeks anyway, with finals and the alternator business...

-Owen