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#45
by
Vincent Waldon
on 22 Aug, 2010 20:25
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Compression test?
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#46
by
Mark(The Miser)UK
on 23 Aug, 2010 01:24
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Is it me or is the fact that the smoke is coming out slower than a 100 year-old lady having a pee, a sign of something wrong with your compression...
Not that I've made a study of exhaust rates though 
Any smoke entering the valve cover?
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#47
by
rs899
on 23 Aug, 2010 06:28
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Another vote for compression test....
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#48
by
Baron VonZeppelin
on 23 Aug, 2010 09:45
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... the pump could be 180* out? how is that possible when i locked the injector pump with the dowl hole? how do i check that for sure?
I'll have to get back over to the library and see the newest video.
Its pretty easy for new-to-dieselers to get the pump 180* off - it'll fit the lock either way.
When all parameters are correct - the KEYWAY on the pump shaft/pulley will be pointing towards the engine - NOT pointing forward towards the radiator.
There is also an index mark on the pulley that should be at top 12 o'clock. Sometimes its marked on front - sometimes on back.
They will start hard and run about half power, at best.
Not saying that is your fix, just answering that question.
And its worth checking.
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#49
by
wolf_walker
on 23 Aug, 2010 15:55
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I have been biting my tongue for almost twenty four hours now...
Motor is clearly protesting the insult to it's clattery dignity that the exhaust "thing" on there is inflicting upon it.
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#50
by
jpedro
on 23 Aug, 2010 17:35
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today i made the call to the guy who has a NA motor so now im just in the process of pulling that motor out to make room for the new motor. does 400.00 for a well running motor with 125000km sound fair? the engine is a 82? and anything i should do before i put my turbo on all that good stuff on it?
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#51
by
veedubcanuck
on 23 Aug, 2010 19:43
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today i made the call to the guy who has a NA motor so now im just in the process of pulling that motor out to make room for the new motor. does 400.00 for a well running motor with 125000km sound fair? the engine is a 82? and anything i should do before i put my turbo on all that good stuff on it?
.....But we want answers first!! Bent valves???
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#52
by
rallydiesel
on 23 Aug, 2010 20:12
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I would second Libbybapa's vote for the cam sprocket slipping. I think that horrible sound was the pistons telling the valves where they should be.
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#53
by
westcoaster
on 23 Aug, 2010 21:16
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I would second Libbybapa's vote for the cam sprocket slipping. I think that horrible sound was the pistons telling the valves where they should be.
If the cam sprocket did slip, he would know if it was out any when he went to retime it
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#54
by
Vincent Waldon
on 23 Aug, 2010 21:26
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And here's why... if you just walk away from this engine and swap in another, without figuring out where it went amiss... well, as they say.... he who forgets the past is doomed to repeat it.
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#55
by
westcoaster
on 23 Aug, 2010 21:54
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today i made the call to the guy who has a NA motor so now im just in the process of pulling that motor out to make room for the new motor. does 400.00 for a well running motor with 125000km sound fair? the engine is a 82? and anything i should do before i put my turbo on all that good stuff on it?
Gotta agree with the others.
Your walking too soon on this. Either that or there's something your not telling us.
Lack of tools? (I can see where you don't have a compression tester)
Lack of time and or place to work on it? (daily driver?)
Lack of money? (trying to stop the bleeding)
I can see where you may need to get SOMETHING in and running but for the love of everything diesel don't dump this project. Someone up there must have an old roach wagon you can buy for $400 until you get this one going again...
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#56
by
VW_Commuter
on 23 Aug, 2010 22:28
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#57
by
jpedro
on 23 Aug, 2010 23:05
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Hey everyone, i was reading all the new posts tonight. I dont have a compression tester tool so im outta luck on that one. but what i discovered is my cam timming is ok, injector pump timming is ok and the crank not so much..... the mark is towards the radiator about 3/8" how does this happen when its all tight and was all aligned perfectly? was that snap in the first video the motor breaking the keyway on the crank pulley? and is it slipping now? Thezorn was just over and we were looking at it and thats what we came to think, so i tried cranking it for him and we noticed there is some smoke comming out of the valve cover as well, but there is new pistons and rings that never have been seated either. so when the weather up here gets nice again me and Thezorn will check out the crank pulley and see if it is messed up. i know all holes build really good compresion cause when i roll the engine over by hand its hard as hell to do so and when the valves open you can hear the air moving. im thinking my timming is out to much to actually run hense all the smoke. ill keep checking it out but ill also be preping the new motor gettting it ready to go in, im not sure if its a 1.5L or 1.6 NA im pretty sure its a mechanical head. but the other question i have about that now is when i go to bolt my trans up to it, how do i alighn it properly so my timming marks all are the same if you know what i mean, but i would like to figuree out what happeend to this motor in there right now. so if theres anything else you need to know ask away, if i dont answer right away im sure Thezorn can help some to hes seen alot of this car to lol. thanks all
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#58
by
rs899
on 24 Aug, 2010 03:59
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my cam timming is ok, injector pump timming is ok and the crank not so much....
Your cam timing is NOT ok if your crank is 3/8" out. You may have sheared the key (probably not), but the crank simply may have moved when you were diddling with the cam and pump since it is not locked. You need at least three hands to time a VW diesel, like it says in the Bentley.
You should pull the crank pulley and check it, but you need to get the timing spot on if you expect this thing to run without bending valves (if you didn't already). You really can't damage the engine (short term) if you get pump timing wrong, but you can damage it if the cam and crank aren't EXACTLY where they need to be.
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#59
by
Mark(The Miser)UK
on 24 Aug, 2010 05:17
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Why are you potentially wasting your money buying new engines, if all you may need to buy is a compression tester?
I doubt much damage has been done to the engine, as you were only idling the engine at the time. If engines can recover from breaks when 1 tonne of car is attached, then I think you're being a little hasty.
Get a budget compression tester whatever you decide, as it's a tool that will be useful in the future!
