torque steer? Normal?

[RustyToy]

This little VW is my first FWD diesel so I really have nothing to campare it to for normality. So please excuse me if this is normal.

So I've gone through and replaced both lower ball joints and tightened the locknuts on the tie rod ends. got my dash put back together and took it for a hard and fast test drive on about a 1 mile loop of abandoned 3 lane highway at the end of my drive. Running up through the gears the most prominant thing i notice is that everytime I depress the clutch to shift the car veers left. As soon as I let off the pedal it straightens right back up. Obviously its more pronounced in the lower gears, but its rather disconcerting.

the other thing i've noticed is that at around 70mph I'm getting a vibration in the steering wheel. It was alot worse before the ball joint replacement but its still there. Tire balance? worn strut?

Last question for this post is: Can anyone tell me what that dimmer switch looking thing under the accelerator pedal is? I HATE not knowing anything about my cars!

Thanks!

[mystery3]

Have you installed many mods? My 81 truck in near stock form does not have enough torque to torque steer. I don't really think torque steer became an issue in golfs until people started modifying the 1.8t?

[truckinwagen]

torque steer is part of any transverse FWD car.
that being said, it is usually not bad unless parts of the front end are worn out.

bad struts, strut mounts, tie rods, ball joints, CV joints, control arm bushings etc... will all contribute to torque steer.
but ball joints and tie rods are the biggest issues usually.

I would replace anything that is worn out in the front end and see where you are after that.

-Owen

[Patrick]

Just got rid of torque steer in my /92 jetta/AAZ. Replaced control arm bushings and 1 inner tie rod end. Get it up in teh air and get a bar , start pushing and pulling to find the slop in the front end. There shouldn't be any.................

[RustyToy]

I haven't done any mods to the car...yet. i just bought it last week and thus far all i have done is attempt to catch up on years worth on maintainance items that have been neglected. PO did nothing for this car except abuse it. it was literally bound for the scrap yard when i picked it up. I almost had to use a scraper to get all the dirt off the dash when we cleaned it up. It was so neglected that at some point the PO had the dash cover off for some reason and was too lazy to put the screws back in across the top. When i got the car the screws in the sides of the dash were the only thing attaching it to the car.

i have replaced both lower ball joints already. I noticed last night that the steering arm going to the left wheel 'clunks' in and out of the steering assy. I figure that can't be good but hopefully isn't the end of the world. (for now)
Another observation is that there is a little bit of 'slop' in the left strut. Guess I'll be replacing them this week as well. I keep reading about a 'special washer' that goes in there somewhere....

i've got Turbo Saabs that don't suffer torque steer like this Golf does. As long as I'm easy on the throttle it does ok, but that is a tiny little go pedal to be sticking my size 14 all over.

So, doesn't anyone have any ideas about that switch under the go pedal?

[Vincent Waldon]

So, doesn't anyone have any ideas about that switch under the go pedal?

If it's an actual switch (as opposed to the more usual stop) it kills the A/C under full-throttle for extra passing power.  

[Baron VonZeppelin]

The engine mounts are another culprit, probably more so the ones on each end. Then you have the front snubber and the rear tranny mount.

These mk1's are often driven to borderline, and beyond.
The rescue usually takes just about new everything up front.
And also on the rear.
But on the plus side, most everything is priced fairly inexpensive and still readily available.

You won't have torque steer or reverse torque steer when everything is back right. Just a super great fun to drive fuel efficient travel machine.

AutohausAZ and RockAuto are real good online sources for quality and value.

You won't go wrong with Monroe Sensa-trac struts/shocks.
They seem to be the very best selection in the under $50 range.
Get the mounts too, just as important. And i recommend their boot/bumpstop kit as well. There are a couple washers within the assembly - but nothing real special. That might be for mk2.

You can get a full prothane kit for front/rear to your door for $80 from a guy on eBay. Most guys are ommitting the front engine and rear tranny mounts in the kit on diesel models, and using stockers on those 2 items. You get a lot in the kit for the money. If you only used half of it you'd still be ahead.

Thats a stop under the pedal. Unless it has wires like Vince mentions - then its dual purpose.
Keeps you from over binding throttle cable/throttle linkage (i demand more power).
And from wearing carpet/bending floor with pedal (i Demand more Power).

The main thing is to have one that cranks/starts/runs well.
Then its worth bringing all the maintenance and wear items back up to new standards. Sounds like thats what you have.

[Rabbit on Roids]

lol @ bending the floor with the go pedal..

[LoneWolf]

if it pulls one way under throttle and back again without throttle then check your wishbone bolts, if they are loose or the bushes are worn then itll be pulling you all over the place, i had the same problem after installing new arms with poly bushes, i hadnt tightened up one of the bolts tight enough and it was letting the arm move under throttle

[RustyToy]

I drove the car out to our farm this morning so i could have a better look underneath. (We have a lift in the shop). Once i got the floorpans at about eye level and could really crawl around and get a good look under there I see now where alot of my troubles are coming from.

the bushings for the lower control arms are nearly non existant. they are toast! drivers side strut mount allows lateral movement (front to back) when its 5 feet in the air. It seems to be pivoting on the upper mount.
Looks to me like rather than rushing it into service as a daily driver (140 miles per day) I'll wait another week while i rebuild the front end.

Ya know, I honestly feel like it's gonna be a pretty good little car. The body is relatively straight & Solid. The interior is in surprisingly good condition,PO had a new clutch,timing belt,and injection pump installed not long ago, and driving it out the the farm today (35 miles each way) was a blast. Don't know if you've ever got the chance to drive through NW Arkansas but we have got some twisty hilly roads around here. Even with a worn out front end it was still fun.

Yes, the switch. (it has wires). I found out today while pulling an exceptionally long grade that if you try to shove the go pedal through the floor the AC goes from nice and cold to warm. Didn't care for that.


digging around in the shop at the farm I've started gathering pieces and parts for both a water injection system as well as I have a Turbo and intercooler off of one of my Saab parts cars that I think i heard the VW commenting how it would like to try that out.

suspension first...then go fast goodies.

[Baron VonZeppelin]

Somehow i led myself to believe you had a mk1 rabbit.
You gotta mk2 golf. Sorry for the mix-up.
Prothane will be a few dollars more on mk2.

[Rabbit on Roids]

if it pulls one way under throttle and back again without throttle then check your wishbone bolts, if they are loose or the bushes are worn then itll be pulling you all over the place, i had the same problem after installing new arms with poly bushes, i hadnt tightened up one of the bolts tight enough and it was letting the arm move under throttle

worn ball joints and tie rod ends make this happen too.. throttle steer i mean.

[RustyToy]

OK, looking at the Rockauto website for tie rod assemblies raises a question. My little Golf has power steering. Was there only one manufacturer of those units? I see TRW designed and ZF designed. How do I know which one I'm going to need?

[Baron VonZeppelin]

AutohausAZ.com just lists the TRW style steering rack for power steering cars in 1985. Complete tie rod units about $20 each.

One thing  to watch about RockAuto orders is, as you do a shopping cart - it will list part location (shipping from -a b c d) - and give a running balance on shipping total.

They ship from 4-5 locations.
If everything comes from same location - the shipping is minimal.
If it comes from 2 or more locations - it gets extravagant.

AutohausAZ has free shipping on orders over $50.
Sometimes it pays to split an order between them, like perhaps struts and etc... from Rock, and steering and other parts from AhAZ.

Rock gets to me in 2-3 days (even saturday deliveries - FedX)
AhAZ takes about 7 days. But I'm in NC.

[Patrick]

SInce you're rebushing the lower control arms anyway, get the audi TT parts. One is the same part number (front bushing) and the other is a "will fit" that's an upgrade. a little stiffer and eliminates the need for a sleeve around the bolt.