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#15
by
Ziptar
on 29 Oct, 2007 08:10
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Not sure if the socket on a handle is for struts or crankshaft, the slotted strut tool is there so maybe the other is for struts. It looks to be a good kit, comes with a Bentley also, I had to go $133.00 for it but, new the stuff added up to more than $295 not including the Bentley so, I splurged. It's all stuff I'll need while doing my swap (already have a Bentley) so sort of a necessity as well.
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#16
by
tylernt
on 29 Oct, 2007 08:14
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Yeah that's a good deal all right, wish I had done that instead of getting everything piecemeal. I think the timing tools cost me upwards of $100 and the Bentley was $50 so it's a pretty good deal even with the missing pump lock tool!
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#17
by
turbosuzi
on 30 Oct, 2007 20:55
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On the timing FAQ link it states that when you turn the crank counter clock wise you should continue until the needle starts moving in the opposite direction. can someone explain this? the directions that I have say to stop turning when the the needle stops moving.
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#18
by
carrizog60
on 08 Nov, 2007 23:46
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any news?
need to do this as i think my timing is off(first time at the shop they timed with the cold lever all the way out ...)
pictures of how to assemble the tool,to lock the camshaft and such are appreciated
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#19
by
Vincent Waldon
on 09 Nov, 2007 08:16
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On the timing FAQ link it states that when you turn the crank counter clock wise you should continue until the needle starts moving in the opposite direction. can someone explain this? the directions that I have say to stop turning when the the needle stops moving.
Yes, you turn the engine counterclockwise until the needle stops moving... you'll know it when you see it... you will keep rotating a bit and discover that the needle still didn't move !
You then rotate the dial of the dial indicator until it reads zero again.
Carefully rotate the engine slowly clockwise until the engine is at exactly TDC (as viewed thru the transmission bell housing) and the reading on the dial indicator is your timing setting.
(pictures on all of this are still a couple of weeks away... my current rebuild is taking longer than expected)
Vince
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#20
by
tylernt
on 09 Nov, 2007 16:51
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Ok here are the major players. If you got a kit that does the old IDI and the new TDI, you want to use the shorter rod. Unscrew the tip from your gauge and screw the rod on there.
Now you need to screw the "sleeve" into the back of your pump. If the coolant bypass hose is installed, you will need to finagle the rod, sleeve, and gauge in there carefully, but it can be done without removing the coolant hose.
Once your sleeve is screwed into the pump, tighten the lockscrew with an allen wrench. Take are that you are NOT screwing the lockscrew into the moveable plunger or you'll ruin your gauge!
Zeroing the gauge is confusing. After you turn your crankshaft backwards until the needle stops moving, unscrew the lockscrew on the side of the gauge so you can rotate the bezel while the needle stays still. Once you move the bezel until zero is under the needle, you can retighten the thumbscrew and advance the crankshaft back to TDC. Now you can read your timing.
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#21
by
carrizog60
on 09 Nov, 2007 23:40
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tylernt for president
i had doubts on the timing tool itself, now they are gone
as for the lock bar on the camshaft:is needed to put it just to do adjust the pump timimg or only for engine/pump timing?
if its needed any more explanations like this one?
really great info!!!
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#22
by
jtanguay
on 10 Nov, 2007 09:22
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you need to loosen the cam sprocket when you do timing, so yes you need the tool in.
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#23
by
burn_your_money
on 10 Nov, 2007 14:08
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Don't use the cam lock to loosen or tighten the cam bolt, you can snap your cam
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#24
by
carrizog60
on 12 Nov, 2007 04:25
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that is only if you also do the engine timing right?
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#25
by
Bludodger
on 20 Nov, 2007 16:38
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Installing a resealed pump in my '91 NA Jetta. I am having problems using my timing guage. Mine came with one rod (longer of the two I have) and I acquired another set (rod/sleeve) which has a shorter rod. The longer one seems to be too long and the shorter one doesn't seem to fit the guage I have (screw diameter of rod is different than guage)... anyone have this problem? resolutions? guess I gotta get another rod/sleeve set.
Could someone please clarify Tylernt 's comment....which rod should I be using for an IDI? From what I can tell the shorter one is for IDI right?
Tyler stated-----"Ok here are the major players. If you got a kit that does the old IDI and the new TDI, you want to use the shorter rod. Unscrew the tip from your gauge and screw the rod on there."
Thanks
Blu
PS If pictures are needed I can provide...
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#26
by
tylernt
on 20 Nov, 2007 17:09
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The correct rod is 90mm overall, 5mm of which is threads. It's pretty easy to shorten a too-long rod with a grinder or Dremel, but kind of hard to go the other way.
The length isn't critical as you can slide the gauge into or out of the sleeve a bit to compensate.
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#27
by
Bludodger
on 20 Nov, 2007 17:27
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I guess I will grind it down... I think I've tried all variations of sleeve placement etc. but the guage either maxs out or there is not enough space for the allen screw to secure the sleeve to the guage... thanks for the measurements.