New to the MK1

[87vr6]

But not new to VWs at all, this MK1 coupe I saved from a junkyard death is my 7th vw, and 4th in the last year. I currently own this, a 87 jetta coupe (swapping a VR into it), and a 03 IY 20th. I love my 20th, but I can tell that this MK1 (my first) is going to be a whole new long term love affair! I own/owned a 96 2.0 GTI, a 87 GTI VR (my namesake from 10 years ago), a 2000 Jetta, a 1987 GTI 2.016v, plus the three mentioned above.

Anyways, this car was a craigslist find, dude wanted 400, gave him 300 and trailer'd it away. It runs, kinda, I have a lot of learning to do, already been reading here a lot in the last few days, and have tons more to do I'm sure. Enough talk, time for pics, and a video.

My "new" MK1:




















MVI 2223


The "others"

I cant find any pics of my first VW, the 96gti

Here's the next, the 87 GTI VR



Then my 2000 Jetta:


Then that got totalled in a flood, so I bought the 20th with the insurance cash:


Then I decided to own two cars at once (where everything went downhill  )


It was a strong runner, but unfortunately, it had floor rust issues, so it wasn't a year later that I tore it apart, traded the motor for a VR and bought the first coupe:


Had intentions to drive it for as long as I could, but slowly, and then quickly the motor gave out (headgasket+ possibly more), so I yanked it and currently installing the trade acquired VR into it.

And then three days ago, I found the MK1 coupe and snagged it before it was junked!

Hope you all enjoy, and I hope to become a contributing member here before long.

[8v-of-fury]

Not bad, I'd do a few things before you run that engine too much more. Fluids, timing belt and tensioner, and timing.

If that timing belt breaks.. the engine will %100 need to be swapped out

Chuggin along there alright.. bad fuel? sounds like a sticky injector, or even just air in the fuel

[rabbitman]

If that timing belt breaks.. the engine will %100 need to be swapped out

Not 100% true , I've heard of a couple that survived. Although it's still a very good idea to change the t-belt.

Get a bentley, change the belt and filters and time it right. If it still doesn't want try running some diesel purge through it.

When I rescued my rabbit that's about how it ran, if I knew then what I know now I could have at least tried fixing the IP rather than just buy a new one.

[87vr6]

Yes, the fluid, belt, and tensioner I plan on taking care of ASAP. Question about the timing. As it sits now, I have to assume it's timed decent enough to run. Now, I don't have any of the "recommended" tools, ie; the pump locking tool, or the cam locking tool, etc... However, I have changed timing belts on numerous gassers (20ish probably) and have never been out of time with them. I make a mark with whiteout on three consecutive teeth on EVERY pulley, and the corresponding teeth on the belt before I remove it, count the number of teeth between marks, and replicate that on the new belt. Line the new belt up and all is well. Don't even need to set TDC, even though I do, just in case something would happen. This should work on the IDI motor too right? I hope so!

But yes, I'm pretty sure I ran the car dry when I was putting it on and off the trailer. The PO said it sat pretty much for 4 years, so I figured I siphon the old fuel out (looked like about 3 ounces) and put about 4 new fresh gallons in. When the motor shuts off or dies, I can see some air making its way back into the the filter, like small to medium bubbles, almost like fizzled soft drink looking. I understand that I should just be able to crack the injector fuel line connections loose, and when fuel comes out, just re-tighten them, and that should pretty much bleed the system out?

Like I said, I'm completely new to whole IDI and VW diesel in general, so any pointers would/will be appreciated.

But, like you said, I suspect either/or the air in lines, or sticky injector. We shall see soon I suppose.

Not bad, I'd do a few things before you run that engine too much more. Fluids, timing belt and tensioner, and timing.

If that timing belt breaks.. the engine will %100 need to be swapped out

Chuggin along there alright.. bad fuel? sounds like a sticky injector, or even just air in the fuel

[8v-of-fury]

Take the fuel lines off the fuel filter and run both lines (coming from the fuel pump with the throttle on top) in to a 1 gallon jug of cheapo automatic transmission fluid Automatic transmission fluid has some mad detergents in it, and will clean the inside of that pump out real good, as well as the injectors. I put in some used lower mile injectors and had a knock. they sat on the shelf for a good 2 years.. Ran it off the ATF bottle and after a few minutes it quieted right down and has been running the last 1500miles really good.

The timing on these engines (cam, pump and crank) all have to be within thousandths of each other to be perfect. Being a tad out on the pump.. like were talking minuscule amounts, barely noticeable to the eye. that much will be enough to throw things outta whack. Also consider that the valves are just coming up out of the way as the pistons move towards TDC, they come within thousandths of an inch of each other. Your method of "marking and praying" will work, but it won't be precise, and you need it to be precise!

change the filters, fluids, and do regular oil changes. this engine will last a very very very long time. Mine has just turned over 600k miles, and i beat its *** everyday.

[rabbitman]

I don't lock the cam and I only lock the IP since the spot it needs to sit is the spot it doesn't like to sit........the spring loaded internals turn on the pulley.

Gassers have a keyway in the cam pulley, diesel's however don't. They rely on the taper fit and the bolt to hold it. So the cam is infinitely adjustable, that's why locking the cam helps.

So, lock cam (or eyeball) and IP (a 1/4" drive socket works,forgot what size) there should be a little mark on the pulley to line up with the mark on the IP bracket, put crank at TDC, put all belt slack at tensioner and tighten tensioner.

After the belt is tensioned torque cam bolt to 45ft-lb, wack bolt and torque again, the book says 33ft-lb but all the pros say 45, some cams have slipped at 33. DO NOT TORQUE WITH CAM LOCK IN PLACE, cams have broke from doing that.

Time the IP either with a gauge or by ear, I used my ear the very first time ever and it worked fine. I tried a gauge once but wasn't happy with how it ran so I redid it by ear .

Seems like the IP lock hole is barely in the right spot, I've had it a tooth off by doing this.

REMOVE THE LOCKS AND TURN ENGINE BY HAND BEFORE TOUCHING THE STARTER.

Have fun .

[87vr6]

Take the fuel lines off the fuel filter and run both lines (coming from the fuel pump with the throttle on top) in to a 1 gallon jug of cheapo automatic transmission fluid Automatic transmission fluid has some mad detergents in it, and will clean the inside of that pump out real good, as well as the injectors. I put in some used lower mile injectors and had a knock. they sat on the shelf for a good 2 years.. Ran it off the ATF bottle and after a few minutes it quieted right down and has been running the last 1500miles really good.

OK. So, the engine is actually going to run (hopefully?) of the ATF? I get your point about the timing issue. I'll be buying/renting the appropiate tools to do the job, as I intend to make this a very long lasting car.

So I am correct about the bleeding right? I have a MK1 diesel bentley, and that it what it says to do, so I'm assuming this is the method that works well for the people here?

[8v-of-fury]

this engine will run on anything that will burn. even gasoline, but don't do this as it lacks all the lubricants of diesel and will wreck your pump.

The engine will run just fine on ATF, I actually dare you to tell me you can hear a difference Not only will it run, but while its running all the detergents in the fluid will clean out stuff and then burn it all away in the combustion process

The Bentley is more highly regarded than the Bible.

[87vr6]

The Bentley is more highly regarded than the Bible.

As far as I'm concerned, the Bentley is the bible...

[mystery3]

The Bentley is more highly regarded than the Bible.

As far as I'm concerned, the Bentley is the bible...

It's truth!

[tSoG-84bit]

As far as I'm concerned, the Bentley is the bible...

I think you'll do jus fine here

[Baron VonZeppelin]

The camlock is essential.
Its also essential to have it shimmed dead center tight without any slack. Done this way, it is also safe to unbolt/retorque the cam bolt without chance of breaking the cam slot - with the camlock in place properly.

With slack in the camlock (and they all leave some slack), your cam timing is going to be off by some degrees either advanced or retarded. And only the corners of the cam slot will make contact with the slide when applying thrust to the bolt - which cracks/breaks the cam slot. And a number of them have been done that way.

I have a wide blade putty knife that fills the gap nicely with a few swift taps on the handle.

Lotta ways to do things that can get you by, but not all work perfect and not all are safe. Save the times of leaving things to chance for only when you really have to - when you can.

And the bentley book is good ... but not THAT good. lol
I know you guys are kidding and joking anyway. well maybe

The timing tool kit from the german guy on eBay is head over heels better than anything in the comparable price range. And its metric scale. Don't be tricked into buying from Charlotte NC, Matthews NC or Indian Trail NC Vendor on anything more than gear shift knobs or locking gas caps.

AutohausAZ and RockAuto usually meet, beat or come close to his price on most items, yet they sell name brand quality merchandise.

Belt tension is also something that can be crucial over time.
They make a tool for measuring that. Its about $40 shipped.
Timing by ear will change belt tension. Any measurable movement of pump will change the tension.

If spec timing setting isn't savvy, reset it by ear, then go back and get a reading for what that ear timing setting is, for future reference.
And recheck/reset belt tension if needed - with all locks in place and cam bolt loose when making belt tension adjustment.

As far as engine work, put all your gasser knowledge on a shelf and start from a clean sheet of paper. Diesels are different. Simple yet Complex.

Welcome to the Cetane Side.

[Dr. Diesel]

What a score!! That Mk1 is the coolest car you've ever owned. 

[87vr6]

What a score!! That Mk1 is the coolest car you've ever owned. 

Yea yea yea... It is pretty cool. I havent had any time to mess with it yet, so it's just sitting around. I need to get the other two back together and the MK2 coupe sold to fund this project. Time time time. And a little money too. But this will be a cool long term project!

[87vr6]

The timing tool kit from the german guy on eBay is head over heels better than anything in the comparable price range. And its metric scale. Don't be tricked into buying from Charlotte NC, Matthews NC or Indian Trail NC Vendor on anything more than gear shift knobs or locking gas caps.

Any links for said german guy? I looked, but haven't found it/him... But my room mate (depsite a warning about the cheap price) just bought from a certain Charlotte vendor...