The old blue rebuild (1983 1.6 TD)

[dankcorey22]

Oooo ive never thought about the solenoid thing. Good point Im going to try that now:)

[92EcoDiesel Jetta]

the fuel collar is the circular thing that sits around the plunger. its the actual injection quantity adjuster.. the governor directly controls the fuel collar, and if its not seated properly, then your pump will never build enough pressure to deliver fuel.

Is fuel collar a Bosch name or your own name? I can't seem to find it. Can you find and point out the part in this thread http://www.vwdieselparts.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=6694 with a lot of photos of the pump internals?

[ORCoaster]

See in picture #2 that doughnut shaped thing just to the left of the head?  The one that bolts on with the four bolts?  That is it.  Or search for -Now let's go on to the distributor piston:
in the thread and drop down to the second picture under that sentence and it is shown there in it's proper position on the pump shaft.

You have to tear your pump apart to see it.  But I think I have viewed it through the top on a sharp angle to the left with a strong light.  So you could pop the top on the car to see if A. pump shaft is broken and B. if collar is on there and moving correctly.  Just wiggle the gover assembly.

[dankcorey22]

Thats really good info! Now in my bookmark

[ORCoaster]

Probably the text book picture book for pump rebuilds.  I have used it on several occassions and will do so again this weekend.  Glad he did it.

[dankcorey22]

Im just thinking about that other NA pump i bought or in general how would i know if the pump is 180 degrees off?

[ORCoaster]

In the pictorial you will find about half way through this line:

To align this part, the drive pin for the piston (marked in green) must be aligned with the key in the pump's shaft.

The pin he is talking about is on the cam plate.  Since the cam plate can be inserted two different ways if you don't align the pin to the key way on the front shaft where the pulley that is spun by the timing belt your install ends up 180 out.  I don't know how you can tell from the outside if the pump is rebuilt 180 out without seeing the pin position relative to the key way. 

[92EcoDiesel Jetta]

I think you're better off fixing your turbo pump (if that's what you have) rather than putting on the NA pump you just bought for obvious performance differences between the 2.

Here's a thread (with pics) of similar problems as you're having.

http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=26904.0

It's called the control sleeve in the pics, which better illustrate how fuel flows through the pump than the pump rebuild pictorial.

[dankcorey22]

In the pictorial you will find about half way through this line:

To align this part, the drive pin for the piston (marked in green) must be aligned with the key in the pump's shaft.

The pin he is talking about is on the cam plate.  Since the cam plate can be inserted two different ways if you don't align the pin to the key way on the front shaft where the pulley that is spun by the timing belt your install ends up 180 out.  I don't know how you can tell from the outside if the pump is rebuilt 180 out without seeing the pin position relative to the key way. 

That answered my question about the inside of the pump. Thanks but what about the outside of the pump. you know how the IP gear has 2 places to lock the pump down.. How do you know what hole is right?

[dankcorey22]

I think you're better off fixing your turbo pump (if that's what you have) rather than putting on the NA pump you just bought for obvious performance differences between the 2.

Here's a thread (with pics) of similar problems as you're having.

http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=26904.0

It's called the control sleeve in the pics, which better illustrate how fuel flows through the pump than the pump rebuild pictorial.

I did send my turbo pump off yesterday to DFIS of portland. Heres their website http://www.dfispdx.com/
Ive heard really great things from them rebuilding TDI pumps.

Thanks for the thread of the similar problems

[dankcorey22]

Since im waiting for that pump. I done a compression test to eliminate other possible no start problems... But the problem is i am using a Harbor Fright compression tester which is probably 50-100 PSI off because the adapter that sticks in the injector hole leaks like an SOB!
What a Piece of ***.

Cyl. 1- 300PSI
Cyl. 2- 300
Cyl. 3- 300
Cyl. 4- 280

I know thats pretty low but i figured all rebuilds start out pretty low since the rings are not seated yet. Also the tester plays a part in the low test scores also

[damac]

In the pictorial you will find about half way through this line:

To align this part, the drive pin for the piston (marked in green) must be aligned with the key in the pump's shaft.

The pin he is talking about is on the cam plate.  Since the cam plate can be inserted two different ways if you don't align the pin to the key way on the front shaft where the pulley that is spun by the timing belt your install ends up 180 out.  I don't know how you can tell from the outside if the pump is rebuilt 180 out without seeing the pin position relative to the key way. 

That answered my question about the inside of the pump. Thanks but what about the outside of the pump. you know how the IP gear has 2 places to lock the pump down.. How do you know what hole is right?

If you get the internals right you line up the mark on the outside of the pulley at 12 oclock with the bracket mark and then you slide the ip lock tool in place and thats your starting point.


Also I got a harbor freight tester for 2 vehicles in a pinch and it worked for me.  Is it possible you have crud on the threads not allowing you to tighten things down properly?  I use antisieze on my injector threads and that can be hell to clean up.  I end up having to take a pick with the old heat shield in place and plug the hole, then go to town and vacuum the debris.    Also plug the hole with heat shields out and hit it with brake cleaner and soak up all the crap to get them down to bare material again.

[92EcoDiesel Jetta]

Low numbers (up to a point) is not as important than even numbers. Did you use the copper washer in the HF kit? I believe you put the washer in first , then the adapter. When you stop cranking, the gauge needle should not drop, if it does, you have a leak somewhere.

Since im waiting for that pump. I done a compression test to eliminate other possible no start problems... But the problem is i am using a Harbor Fright compression tester which is probably 50-100 PSI off because the adapter that sticks in the injector hole leaks like an SOB!
What a Piece of ***.

Cyl. 1- 300PSI
Cyl. 2- 300
Cyl. 3- 300
Cyl. 4- 280

I know thats pretty low but i figured all rebuilds start out pretty low since the rings are not seated yet. Also the tester plays a part in the low test scores also

[dankcorey22]

That answered my question about the pump damac thanks

I did use the copper washers with the kit but i can still hear leaks when i turn the engine over, but when i screw the fitting in the injector hole it kinda wobbles to that tells me its not perfectly true around the edges which creates the leak.

[ORCoaster]

damac noted:
If you get the internals right you line up the mark on the outside of the pulley at 12 oclock with the bracket mark and then you slide the ip lock tool in place and thats your starting point.

The operative words are at the beginning, IF YOU GET THE INTERNALS RIGHT.  I was thinking that if someone just handed you a pump off the shelf there would be no way to know if they flipped the cam over 180.  But as damac says just line up the mark on the pulley and the bracket and start there.  But what if that doesn't do the trick?  I have heard tales of people just loosening the belt, rotating the IP pulley 180 and making a mark on it and having success getting it to run that way.  Then the next time they tear the pump apart they make sure the cam is done right and go back to using the factory mark.