The old blue rebuild (1983 1.6 TD)

[dankcorey22]

I have no leaks from the seals I replaced when I turn the lift pump on and pop the return line off, it just poors fuel with no air bubbles whatsoever.
The stop solenoid is good because I tried the one off my tdi also and no fuel to the injectors not even a drop.
Im going to buy a pump then work on my td pump while I have the pump im going to by on their.

[Mark(The Miser)UK]

If you have fuel coming out of the banjo then the pump is already primed, and you don't need Mityvac or anything else.
Unscrew timing screw and see if hand cranking, or short starter cranking, gives you a gusher.
If not you have solenoid problems.
You may get fuel due to the fuel pump you have attached.

Try the above, and also try Reg's technique of turning in the max fuel screw say a turn.

[dankcorey22]

If you have fuel coming out of the banjo then the pump is already primed, and you don't need Mityvac or anything else.
Unscrew timing screw and see if hand cranking, or short starter cranking, gives you a gusher.
If not you have solenoid problems.
You may get fuel due to the fuel pump you have attached.

Try the above, and also try Reg's technique of turning in the max fuel screw say a turn.

Is it the same is i took the solenoid off and hand turned it? but i did and fuel came out. but ill try the timing screw when i have time.

My max fuel screw is all the way in till it starts to run away now.. Ill give one turn back.  Do you think something in the area of the max fuel screw gets stuck?

[dankcorey22]

i got this pump. http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=29981.0

[92EcoDiesel Jetta]

i got this pump. http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=29981.0

Do you know the seller personally? Sounds like too good of a deal. I asked if you ran your pump before you rebuilt your engine and do not recall seeing an answer. I guess the answer is no?

[Mark(The Miser)UK]

If you have fuel coming out of the banjo then the pump is already primed, and you don't need Mityvac or anything else.
Unscrew timing screw and see if hand cranking, or short starter cranking, gives you a gusher.
If not you have solenoid problems.
You may get fuel due to the fuel pump you have attached.

Try the above, and also try Reg's technique of turning in the max fuel screw say a turn.

Is it the same is i took the solenoid off and hand turned it? but i did and fuel came out. but ill try the timing screw when i have time. My max fuel screw is all the way in till it starts to run away now.. Ill give one turn back.  Do you think something in the area of the max fuel screw gets stuck?

Fuel at the solenoid is something but not far enough into pump.

A simple but methodical list to follow:

Checks for fuel go:

Tank, check for blocked fuel filler cap
Fuel line to fuel filter, possible air leaks
Transparent line to pump, possible air leaks
Pump main chamber fuel; filling is primed when fuel returns to tank,
Fuel stop solenoid; be sure operating correctly ie opening, and not merely 'clunking'
 Fuel into piston chamber; undo timing bolt
Fuel into high pressure lines, slacken nut on injector
Fuel into injectors; leak off lines can give 'depriming for Dolfs , but not Quantums it would appear
Fuel out in spray ; poor spray pattern or mismatched pressures, drips

RE max fuel screw something may be changed from being disturbed

[dankcorey22]

  I tried everything you guys have told me with my TD Pump, No Luck. No fuel at injectors. No fuel coming out the timing hole.
I got the N/A pump today in the mail. Im going to try that this evening i hope to god it works! If not ill be sending my TD pump to Giles in CA.
Todays my day off so i got all day to fool with it. Well until it starts  raining again which it has been almost all day.

Well Thanks guys for trying to help me! Now i just want to put some C4 under the oil pan LOL

[R.O.R-2.0]

I tried everything you guys have told me with my TD Pump, No Luck. No fuel at injectors. No fuel coming out the timing hole.
I got the N/A pump today in the mail. Im going to try that this evening i hope to god it works! If not ill be sending my TD pump to Giles in CA.
Todays my day off so i got all day to fool with it. Well until it starts  raining again which it has been almost all day.

Well Thanks guys for trying to help me! Now i just want to put some C4 under the oil pan LOL

are you sure the fuel collar is connected to the bottom of the fulcrum plate still? it comes disconnected very easily, and it can cause either a no run condition, or sometimes even a runaway condition..

[dankcorey22]

Hey R.O.R can you specify? I don't know exactly what you mean?

[R.O.R-2.0]

the fuel collar is the circular thing that sits around the plunger. its the actual injection quantity adjuster.. the governor directly controls the fuel collar, and if its not seated properly, then your pump will never build enough pressure to deliver fuel.

[dankcorey22]

the fuel collar is the circular thing that sits around the plunger. its the actual injection quantity adjuster.. the governor directly controls the fuel collar, and if its not seated properly, then your pump will never build enough pressure to deliver fuel.

Oh yeah i know what your talking about now. Im pretty sure the pump was put back together right. But anyways im going to send it to DFIS in portland ive heard great things about them with TDI pumps. They are fairly cheap also.

[Mark(The Miser)UK]

the fuel collar is the circular thing that sits around the plunger. its the actual injection quantity adjuster.. the governor directly controls the fuel collar, and if its not seated properly, then your pump will never build enough pressure to deliver fuel.

Oh yeah i know what your talking about now. Im pretty sure the pump was put back together right. But anyways im going to send it to DFIS in portland ive heard great things about them with TDI pumps. They are fairly cheap also.

Before you take such drastic action, are you sure that the work you've done at the solenoid led to it opening correctly? If the plunger was sticking you would get the symptoms you have now.

The spill sleeve would do this too, as well as a physically snapped piston. This can be checked by removing timing screw, and inserting either a gauge or a nail, and watching it move 2mm with hand cranking engine

[rabbitman]

The spill sleave can also be installed backwards, not sure what it would cause though.

[dankcorey22]

the fuel collar is the circular thing that sits around the plunger. its the actual injection quantity adjuster.. the governor directly controls the fuel collar, and if its not seated properly, then your pump will never build enough pressure to deliver fuel.

Oh yeah i know what your talking about now. Im pretty sure the pump was put back together right. But anyways im going to send it to DFIS in portland ive heard great things about them with TDI pumps. They are fairly cheap also.

Before you take such drastic action, are you sure that the work you've done at the solenoid led to it opening correctly? If the plunger was sticking you would get the symptoms you have now.

The spill sleeve would do this too, as well as a physically snapped piston. This can be checked by removing timing screw, and inserting either a gauge or a nail, and watching it move 2mm with hand cranking engine

How would you know that the solenoid is sticking? And how would i solve that? I have taken the solenoid out and charged it. Engages like it supposed to.

Your saying if the piston is physically snapped it wouldnt move any?  Mine moves alot from the last time i timed the pump.

[Mark(The Miser)UK]

the fuel collar is the circular thing that sits around the plunger. its the actual injection quantity adjuster.. the governor directly controls the fuel collar, and if its not seated properly, then your pump will never build enough pressure to deliver fuel.

Oh yeah i know what your talking about now. Im pretty sure the pump was put back together right. But anyways im going to send it to DFIS in portland ive heard great things about them with TDI pumps. They are fairly cheap also.

Before you take such drastic action, are you sure that the work you've done at the solenoid led to it opening correctly? If the plunger was sticking you would get the symptoms you have now.

The spill sleeve would do this too, as well as a physically snapped piston. This can be checked by removing timing screw, and inserting either a gauge or a nail, and watching it move 2mm with hand cranking engine

How would you know that the solenoid is sticking? And how would i solve that? I have taken the solenoid out and charged it. Engages like it supposed to.

Your saying if the piston is physically snapped it wouldnt move any?  Mine moves alot from the last time i timed the pump.

I'm not an expert in snapped pistons unfortunately [fortunately actually ]

However, with the solenoid, if you remove it and then replace it without it's plunger [peer inside to see that the hole is clear] Then it will definitely allow flow from it into the piston chamber.
When it bursts into life however, stopping will require dropping into gear or disconnecting fuel...