It IS time young ones - page 3 - General - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.

• #30 by Rabbit on Roids on 03 Jul, 2010 18:10
• myself, i dont really care about ride quality. im used to driving lifted toyotas. they bounce like no other.. i just want a good strut that wont blow out quite as easy as the stock garbage. sorry for the thread jack jermo.
• #31 by 8v-of-fury on 03 Jul, 2010 19:59
• KEvo no worries as I am trying to find struts/shocks myself Bilstein or Koni seems to be the way to go for a good long lasting suspension.
• #32 by 8v-of-fury on 03 Jul, 2010 20:21
• You start with a stock intake..
  
  
  You take it apart..
  
  
  
  You cut some ABS (with a saw that is like 50 years old)..
  
  
  You fab it up..
  
  
  You eff up the skill saw cut..
  
  
  You fix it..
  
  
  
  You aim it to your highbeam spot..
  
  
  You put some screen on your highbeam bezel..
  
  
  You have yourself a finished 3" cold air intake
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Noticeably more power over the stock snorkel! A lot less smoke at WOT then before. Easily does 140km/h on the highway in 4th gear with three 240lb people in the car A must do for anyone owning an N/A! I think the screen-bezel trick will fool most of the coppers around my area lol. Their pretty dumb to begin with. What do ya'll think? Next is the exhaust. 2.25-2.5" to a free flowing muffler of choice
  
  ps. I plan to setup some sort of flare at the end of the intake to make it suck primarily from the front bezel, instead of being able to get a bit of hot air still. Noise is not noticeably quieter over stock snorkel, but is quieter over no intake cover and just filter as i was driving around for parts half way through the ordeal lolol
• #33 by burn_your_money on 03 Jul, 2010 20:39
• Good stuff. I was actually thinking of doing the exact same thing until I realized I need to use a TD air box on my car
  
  What did you attach the screen with?
  
  Where's your timing belt cover?
• #34 by 8v-of-fury on 03 Jul, 2010 20:42
• I used contact cement as it was all I had available at the exact moment of thinking to do the screen idea.. I suppose the fix-it putty epoxy may have worked. So far the epoxy is holding on my 140km/h highway runs.
  
  Gov Mod and Exhaust is on the way
  
  anyone know where I can get affordable 2.25" exhaust straights and bends?
• #35 by Rabbit on Roids on 04 Jul, 2010 11:54
• come on jermo, just pop the top off your pump and mod the gov.. its so worth it. the first time you floor it and your engine pulls till 5500 it will put a grin on your face from ear to ear. and im talking its PULLING GOOD still. and i only used about half the shim i used in my last mod. i used one nut. maybe 3mm thick. worked awesome.
• #36 by burn_your_money on 04 Jul, 2010 13:29
• Call your local exhaust shop and ask if they will sell you some. Call around because I'm sure some of them will really mark it up
• #37 by 8v-of-fury on 04 Jul, 2010 16:29
• KEvo I want to do the exhaust and HG first so when I have the head off I can tap the manifold for an EGT. as I do not want to burn this little guy down The engine will pull amazingly to said rpms once I have the exhaust on there! Gonna need a tach too! Cuz I will probably be up around the 5300+ area quite often as there is no reason these engines can't pull hard up there like there similar 1.6 gas brethren.
  
  thanks Tyler, I will give it a shot tomorrow on the lunch break.
• #38 by Baron VonZeppelin on 04 Jul, 2010 21:20
• I've seen some high beam ram air fabs on other cars and always thought it was kick azz cool. Way to go 8v.
  
  I've been trying to think of something non-hardening you could use to encapsulate around the headlight housing that would be cheap and easy to remove when needed. A chunk of carved out foam rubber/couch cushion is all that hits me yet.
  
  I'd put the screen mesh over the other headlight too, for uniform look and stealthiness.
• #39 by 8v-of-fury on 05 Jul, 2010 05:01
• so actually i have a question regarding my headlights. before doing the removal I actually had only one side.. hitting the high beam switch would only turn on the passenger high beam and passenger low beam high beam filament.. it would not light up either of the two driver side high beam filaments.. why is this? do they not run off the same power? I can't recall when i relayed my headlights on the 84.
• #40 by theman53 on 05 Jul, 2010 05:40
• not bad, still liked mine better  jk
  If you get a 3" to 4" coupler and put it on the end I think you will have what you want OR go to the heating cooling section of the hardware and see if they have an aluminum vent for ductwork. They might even have the exact size or close enough to it, of your headlight.
  No idea on the lighting question.
• #41 by 8v-of-fury on 05 Jul, 2010 05:44
• Quote from: burn_your_money on 03 Jul, 2010 20:39

  Where's your timing belt cover?
  

  
  Those are for the WEAK!
  
  haha, its being cleaned and painted.. Haven't had it on in months though.. I was thinking of painting my valve cover and timing cover like the flag of Germany lol
• #42 by Baron VonZeppelin on 05 Jul, 2010 07:31
• Does the driver low beam work ?
  
  I 'think' power goes to driver side lights first - then feeds off over to passenger side lights. Maybe you just have poor connections. Or bad bulbs.
  
  Mk1's can be brutal sometimes on popping up with funky electrical quirks. But when you finally find or figure out the cause (hours/days/weeks later) its usually a pretty simple fix.
  
  What i meant earlier was grill mesh on both high beams.
  Or maybe even over all 4 lights.
• #43 by Rabbit on Roids on 05 Jul, 2010 09:42
• my mk1 gets power from the drivers side power. then crosses the core support, then goes to the pass light..
• #44 by burn_your_money on 05 Jul, 2010 09:58
• Try and jump them with battery power and see what happens.