Could use some help..

[Palmer]

I just picked up a 97 jetta with a 1.9TD that has a few mods going on. Garrett T3 turbo, 1.6L boost pin, 2.5" straight pipe exhaust, and a cone filter.

Recently I've been losing a lot of oil. It seems to be a bit inconsistent, but still losing quite a bit. Sometimes after 50km i could be down 1/4 - 1/2 a liter, and sometimes I won't lose any. Does not seem to matter whether I baby it, or drive it hard. I was told my car gives a little grey/blue puff when it starts, and there is only small dollar sized drops where I park my car. To top off the car to get me around until i figure out exactly where the oil is going, I checked with the previous owner to see what he's been running in it for oil. He said Rotella 15w40, so I picked some up and topped off the car. I drove 100km and checked the oil, hadn't lost any, car was working great. Drove another 50km, oil was 1/4 of the way down the hatched marks on the dipstick, and the car developed a tick that sounds like a sticky lifter. Is the tick because I should be running different oil? I have plans to switch to Total brand oil from the VW dealer.


CLIFFS: losing oil, not sure where its going, and developed a "tick" in the motor, started happening all of a sudden, whats up?


Thanks

[Vincent Waldon]

Some thoughts:

- 15W40 diesel-rated Rotella is a fine oil for your car (at least for the summer)... no reason for expensive Total oil from the dealer, and particularly not until you figure out where it's going

- there's a 5W40 Rotella in a dark blue bottle that's *perfect* for your car year-round.. and often goes on sale at Canadian Tire. 

- in terms of where the oil is going... it's either burning it or leaking it.

- for leaking: the usual approach is to pressure-wash the engine and then run it for a few days, inspecting carefully on all sides for leaks.  A very common one is the valve cover gasket at the back side by the exhaust manifold... it drips down and is hard to see.

- for burning: compression test is usually pretty diagnostic, although it won't reveal worn valve stem seals.  At the rate you're losing oil I'm guessing that you aren't burning it... one would think the smoke would be pretty  blue at all times

- in terms of the ticking: always hard to tell over the internet, but the service manual has the test for leaking lifters:  warm the engine, pull the valve cover, and then use a wooden stick to see if any of the hydraulic lifters will push down.

[Palmer]

Perfect, that's exactly what I was looking for.

- 15W40 diesel-rated Rotella is a fine oil for your car (at least for the summer)... no reason for expensive Total oil from the dealer, and particularly not until you figure out where it's going

I have a friend that owns his own shop that sells total. I'm pretty sure he doesn't charge dealer prices on the oil, but you have a very good point there.

- for leaking: the usual approach is to pressure-wash the engine and then run it for a few days, inspecting carefully on all sides for leaks.  A very common one is the valve cover gasket at the back side by the exhaust manifold... it drips down and is hard to see.

I've had the car up on a lift at said friends shop, and we couldn't find a leak. I was certain it was the turbo oil return line, but everything seemed leak free. I've been monitoring it though.

- for burning: compression test is usually pretty diagnostic, although it won't reveal worn valve stem seals.  At the rate you're losing oil I'm guessing that you aren't burning it... one would think the smoke would be pretty  blue at all times

Definitely black soot when I floor it. Also, I had a friend following me for over an hour yesterday and he reported no blue smoke.. I only get a slightly blue puff at start-up, but the motor has 280,000+km on it..

- in terms of the ticking: always hard to tell over the internet, but the service manual has the test for leaking lifters:  warm the engine, pull the valve cover, and then use a wooden stick to see if any of the hydraulic lifters will push down.

I forgot to mention, so far, I don't get the ticking noise if the car is stone cold, until after the car is up to temp and I've been driving for a bit.. But I'll give this a go.

Thanks!



here's a pic for clicks

[Palmer]

Oh, a friend of mine suggested it could be the turbo seal leaking, but that would cause blue smoke wouldn't it?

[Rabbit on Roids]

turbo seal would definitely make some smoke. might not too, might just burn the oil as fuel and then you dont notice or smell it. my audi has bad rings. it smokes ALL THE TIME. takes a quart to go about 75 miles..

[wolf_walker]

I once dialed the fuel back on a turbo for a guy on a hunch and *then* we saw oil smoke, where as prior it was covered in the black smoke.  I'd comp test as Vince suggested first, but this reminded me of that.
I've seen NA's that didn't smoke a lick other than wisps of black, and still eat some oil, it's pretty normal in fact.  But not that much.  The hyd lifters seem to crap out pretty regular, aren't hard to replace or expensive.  Don't buy crappy chinese ones.

[Palmer]

Thanks for the responses guys! I actually had the idea to dial the fuel back on my way home because I left a big black soot cloud on the road and decided I'd never notice any blue in there if there was any. Thanks for suggesting that though! I'm going to get a comp test as soon as I can. I don't have the equipment to do it myself. So, if I'm lacking compression, whats that mean for me? engine tear down, hone cylinders, new rings and headgasket?

[rattler]

Hey, Halifax, that's close - I'm up in Truro... My mechanic showed me a really cheap/basic way to do a "compression test". Put the car facing down a good hill, engine off, put it in 1st and let all brakes off. The engine should hold you there for a while without moving. If the engine is low on compression it will just start rolling down the hill. Doesn't give you any info about why the compression is low or in what cylinder, but it will quickly answer the question...

[Palmer]

Thats interesting. I'm fairly certain it will hold itself on a hill. I'll have to give this a try today or tomorrow to be sure tho.

Also, I think I'm going to try to get out and turn the fuel down today. If not, it'll be tomorrow.

Thanks!

[wolf_walker]

The usual procedure is if comp is low on one or more cylinders, move on to a leakdown test and see if you can isolate weather it's ring/bore wear or valves.  It's very possible it's valve wear, guides are supposed to wear, they are softer than the valve bodys, and seats erode with age and heat as well, this is all accelerated in a turbo.  All things being happy, you'll go through a head before the bottom end wears out, at least once.

[Palmer]

Good to know.

The body has almost 500000km on it, and this is the second motor, which has around 285000km on it. Its probably due for something soon. Especially being able to peg my boost gauge at 30psi, lol.

Also, The car will hold itself on a hill with no e-brake.