More Thanks to you Vincent !
The rubber gasket in the pics came with the driver side shaft.
The passenger side didn't come with one - but same manufacturer on both axles - GSP.
I'm guessing they intended for the gasket to go between the tranny flange and axle flange. No papers or instructions included.
I left it out because i only had one of them, and mostly it didn't seem like the best idea to have rubber compressed/torqued/sandwiched in between the flanges at 33 ft lbs.
If the rubber went bad after time the flange bolts might get loose ... idunno
Any input from you guys on that ?
Was it supposed to go somewhere else ?
Feels good getting those hidden troubles revealed and fixed.
The Truck was dictating to me i guess ... hey fool - how about fix this mess too while you're doing all this other stuff to me.
Haha VWs have a way of wearing the pants in the relationship don't they?
I've never used those gaskets before. Actually I've never seen them for the 90mm axles in person.
Man this sounds like the kinda problem I'd have, my sympathy's.
Ditto leaving out the gasket, I never even noticed VW use them at all, just Porsche.
Check your front wheel bearings while it's all apart.
Now we get to see if your new axles bind in the hubs and need to be ground down a little.
Check your front wheel bearings while it's all apart.
They seemed okay, fingers crossed.
The rear brakes only took about 3-4 weeks start to finish.
That would have been about a 5-6 page thread.
Now we get to see if your new axles bind in the hubs and need to be ground down a little.
fingers, toes, arms, legs and eyes crossed ... lol
Hoooooooly Shet ... hope not !
Got rained out this afternoon/evening.
Only got the driver side tripsquares torqued to spec, and the driver axle nut prelim tight before the sky took a big piss for a while.
The driver side rotates normal so far - but axle nut is only on at about 40-50 lbs.
Now we get to see if your new axles bind in the hubs and need to be ground down a little.
You gave me the heebie jeebies on that - so i went out and pulled the driver axle nut to about 75-80 lbs while the rain was paused.
(Its nice having vented rotors when doing this kinda job - you can lock or rotate with a screwdriver in one of the vents as needed - but i won't be pulling 195 lbs like that.)
uhmm ... i'm getting resistance now when try to turn rotor.
Fatmobile - What Have The Damm Chinese Bastages Done to my Truck ? Sounds like you have been in this spot already.
Would the Colorado Remans from CarQuest do it too - you think ?
Spill the beans on me bub, whats it gonna take to make these right ? And are there better options, as in bolt on and go.
I don't feel so good ................. lol (%@#!%&)
Couldn't sleep. This was bothering me. lol
Its rained and dried about 4-5 times tonight.
The new rotors are exposed with no wheels.
They have gotten pretty orangey from the wet and dries.
I went out and loosened the axle nut back off - and still had same resistance.
Noticed the pads were wiping the orange off right much.
Spread the caliper apart a little and it feels normal'ish again.
So maybe it was just the surface corrosion playing tricks on me.
Will know more tomorrow after a full torque and further analysis.
Least i can sleep now ............. zzzzz
Another rainy afternoon. It finally cleared up and i got some more done on this deal after 6pm until dark thirty.
There was no real need to have pulled the rotors and pads to do the axles - but wish i would have. They bit me in the azz Hard.
That mild resistance and mild sound on driver side wasn't the surface rust residue, and it wasn't the axle ends binding against the hubs.
After getting everything buttoned up it was time to run it on the stands without wheels again, to test results.
It was making a metal to metal type noise like crazy and had some shimmy - up to about 2000 rpm using 3rd. Then it would quiet down and stabilize above that.
It sounded and acted like the axle end was binding grinding bumping on the hub - on the driver side. Got out the stethescope and checked around - was definitely coming from outer driver side. Was getting resonance everywhere all the way to the passenger side. But highest effect was at outer driver side.
Couldn't find any metallics or evidence around the hub, but was still about ready to remove the axle and inspect further. %$@#
Took a notion to pull driver rotor and pads first for heck of it since its so quick and easy. Then found a nice 5mm wide wear groove all the way around the center of the inner side of my brand new rotor.
No idea what got in there.
Ran it in gear again without rotors/pads and the problem was gone.
Checked passenger side again with stethescope and still had some minor static resonance on that side. Pulled the rotors/pads off that side and rechecked. Gone.
Without any pads/rotors, it just has smooth rolling bearing resonance on both sides, so all seems to be well and fine in the axles/cv's/bearings departments.
I'll hit the front brakes with a fine tune, spit polish and fresh coat of anti-rattle tomorrow. Then hopefully close the book on this chapter.
Beyond me why an old VW Truck thinks it deserves Mercedes type finesse. crazy ol truck
Beyond me why an old VW Truck thinks it deserves Mercedes type finesse. crazy ol truck
You noticed that too huh.
I'll say the damn things go for a long time with regular maintenance intervals once you get them squared away though. 600K and change on mine and I've replaced everything on it several times over.
If the parts were more consistent quality I could put pretty accurate guesses on failure times.
