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stop solenoid questions 1.6 n/a->pump reseal-> timing issue
by
lovinthedeez
on 09 Jun, 2010 20:56
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EDIT: I got the pump sealed up and doesn't leak. my timing is way off, and I think I put the cold start lever on wrong. my last post describes what I got.
just had a couple of quick questions. Is the washer/gasket/seal under the stop solenoid available by itself? mine is leaking pretty good all of a sudden, but don't want to get a new solenoid just for the seal. and what size is that, 22mm? tia
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#1
by
burn_your_money
on 09 Jun, 2010 21:50
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24mm.
Yes you can get the o-ring separately. Every seal in the pump is available by itself. Don't be surprised if it's $5 though, Bosch is funny like that.
Are you sure it's the o-ring and not the solenoid? Sometimes the solenoids themself leak.
If you know someone that bought a DGK121 kit they will have an extra o-ring for the stop solenoid.
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#2
by
RustyCaddy
on 10 Jun, 2010 05:11
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Oregon Fuel Injection on Crater Lake Hwy in Medford sells the Bosch DGK126 seals...they might even part with just the stop solenoid seal.
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#3
by
lovinthedeez
on 10 Jun, 2010 10:05
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will prolly just go to import parts center and grab a whole new solenoid if Larry doesn't want an arm and a leg for it.
for 20 or so bucks, why not?
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#4
by
lovinthedeez
on 12 Jun, 2010 14:16
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new stop solenoid didn't do anything. its pretty much pouring off of the bottom on the rear. gonna go get the seal kit on monday, and see what replacing the rear housing seal and the cold start seal will do. just wondering about crusty cranks method of only loosening the fuel union housing until the seal is visible. anyone else tried that. seems like quite a stretch to get the new seal over the housing.
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#5
by
lovinthedeez
on 12 Jun, 2010 15:52
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I was going through the threads at the grease works site, and came across the method you tried using a longer bolt in the timing guage hole to keep the plunger seated. is that the washer you were talking about?
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#6
by
RustyCaddy
on 12 Jun, 2010 19:24
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While your messing with the pump you might just reseal the whole pump. Maybe add the govenor mod too. i have done a couple reseals and if i can do it anyone can. i bought the DVD from Lorelec off ebay (if you contact him before buying he gives a discount if purchased directly from him) which made it idiot proof...i did mess up the first time, so nearly idiot proof
Lorelec is Marc and he lives near Ashland; really nice guy.
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#7
by
lovinthedeez
on 12 Jun, 2010 21:54
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I plan on buying the seal kit as a whole, so a complete reseal could be in the works. to rusty caddy, sending ya an im
. just got the pump out. left everything at tdc to make timing easier
. took all but a half hour. gonna take some pics. the pump was pretty clean to begin with, so the leaks seem pretty obvious. will take a couple pics tonite, but looks like the cold start and the union housing are both culprits. Car had a biodiesel sticker on it when i bought it a few months ago, and i've been running #2 in it since I had it. I drive it only a couple miles, if any daily; so the leaking makes sense, I guess
. highly doubt the other lines were replaced, which will surely need it now.
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#8
by
lovinthedeez
on 16 Jun, 2010 12:44
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so on to today, I put it all back together last night, and had my celebration cut short. It was the cold start seal and the union housing seals which were the culprits behind my massively leaking pump. No leaks at all, but I think I put the cold start lever in the wrong position when reassembling. The car had lots of blue smoke, and was trying to overheat. Idle gets worse as it warms. my timing is 1.33 with the cold start in and 1.08 with it out. the static timing all lines up, and has been checked repeatedly. Think I'm gonna take the pump back off, and move the cold start lever. I didn't mess with anything other than those two seals, and it doesn't leak. would stupidly advanced timing make it overheat like this. Maybe the pump is 180 off (would it even run?) On the (no pun intended) hot lap, It started to overheat, and I shut it down. went to go get a cold drink to let it cool down. started right up and took it home. I highly doubt I blew the hg, but I'm a little stumped. any input?
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#9
by
rabbitman
on 16 Jun, 2010 15:39
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The cold start is assembled wrong, no idea why it overheats.
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#10
by
lovinthedeez
on 16 Jun, 2010 15:51
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yup, it was. just pulled it back apart and found I put it in the wrong spot. all the way on when I should have put it to off. set the timing back to 1.00, and everything is good, except the fact I think I blew the headgasket. can't get rid of the smoke at any throttle, and overheats quickly under load. I ran into one thread while searching when a guy asked "what happens with too much advance". One of the answers was "are you good at replacing headgaskets
". My guess is that the combo of running too much advance along with driving it hot a few times (not even that far though, just a couple of hot laps) was enough to blow the headgasket
oh well, I consider this job a major victory for myself. I resealed my pump myself for 12 dollars, and finally was able to do a pump removal/replacement and time it under an hour, with perfect reproducible results. I've done the hg a bunch of times on these, and that will only put me down another thirty bucks and my time.
one of my favorite mk1 lover's pics
