No start??

[TDsamurai]

So im trying to start my recently converted samurai, and the engine will not fire. I had to redo the timing, and i have followed all the steps except for fine tuning it with the dial indicator because i do not have the appropriate tools. I figured the timing will be close enough to atleast run like crap. But it just turns over and puts some white smoke out the stack. Ive heard some can run their engine 180 out on thier fuel timing and mine wont even run with all the marks lined up. Any ideas or diagnosis solutions are greatly appreciated. I was planning on having it properly timed after i can drive it to a shop that has the tooling.

Thanks for the response in advance.

PS. Yes the glow plugs work.

[theman53]

keep cranking to get it all primed or have someone tow you...that's what it sounds like to me. It just needs some time to work the air out a little and timing may be a bit off. You can loosen all the bolts and twist a little tighten and try to start if you think you have fuel to the injectors.
Make sure to loosen the lines and tighten all the bolts back up as soon as it gets running though.

[TDsamurai]

yea at first i thought it was air in the system, it definately had fuel to the injectors on previous attempts because white smoke was comin out quite thick. I have since then removed the number one injector hose to insure the pump is infact injecting to number one with the cylinder at TDC. It seems the injector return lines are leaking so i am going to replace all that this evening, however it should not effect it from running if im not mistaken. I will also ensure the system is bled again and try try try again.

Once the engine is running is it safe to time it by ear? with the injection pump slightly loose?

Thanks.

[theman53]

yes very slightly loose. That way the setting you like won't be lost and the nuts and bolts won't vibrate into the timing belt cover and make you a bad day. again, loosen the injector lines and the things holding them together and retighten after you get it where you like it.

[TDsamurai]

if i have the fittings and connectors loosened will it still hold pressure? i wouldnt think it would run with the fittings loose.

Thanks alot for your help.

[theman53]

My bad.
First loosen and turn the pump.

Then when you get it where you like it tighten the pump.

Then loosen and tighten the lines and the things holding them so they won't be "sprung" with all the pressure inside them.

[79rabbit4dr]

if i have the fittings and connectors loosened will it still hold pressure? i wouldnt think it would run with the fittings loose.

Thanks alot for your help.

you don't want pressure in there, that will prevent the fuel from making it through. I had two lines loose until it fired and ran. On the crank no start I just fixed I went through 2 batteries trying to get it started and then finally pulled the "out" bolt and filled the injection pump with a ATF/Diesel mixture... as well as the tank (because he had run it dry  )

[TDsamurai]

So i tried starting it with the injector fittings loose and it still wont fire, and the return lines dont seem to be leaking, however something must be. There is white smoke (diesel vapor) coming out from under the hood after i crank it over. I can't tell where its coming from because it just shows up from almost everywhere it seems. If i was to guess i would say it is leaking from the IP somewhere and also out of the intake manifold but there shouldnt be diesel in the intake right? I dont want to say this but i am starting to think it could be a head gasket, which isn't in the budget at the moment however i was planning on doing the steel gasket and ARP studs. Is there any common areas for fuel to leak from? It seems there is enough compression because it does load up the starter as it turns over and it feels normal to turn it with a wrench. I would rather not do a compression test because of the disposable heat shields and the head cracking risk. Im gonna try to fire it one more time tonight and then i have a heavy duty mechanic friend coming over sunday. I hope its something simple i am over looking.

Thanks for the help guys i wouldnt have made it this far without you guys.

[TDsamurai]

Another thing, any of you that have experienced air in the fuel, was there any smoke coming out of the exhaust while you were cranking? Everywhere i have read nobody mentions if they get any smoke or not, i would think if there is air in the fuel it is probably compressing instead of creating enough pressure to open the injector correct? so if i have smoke coming out the exhaust then that means there is enough pressure to open the injector which means i have fuel and there must be some other issue correct? Or am i completely off track here?

From my understanding with diesels if you have fuel, air, and compression it should fire even if the timing is off by a bit. Some say their engines would run with 180 degrees off of fuel timing. Its obviously getting air as it is somewhat impossible not to unless i have the turbo plated off (which i dont). From what i can tell it is getting fuel. So the last thing is compression... I think if i find wherever the vapor is coming from under the hood i will find my problem.

[79rabbit4dr]

So i tried starting it with the injector fittings loose and it still wont fire, and the return lines dont seem to be leaking, however something must be. There is white smoke (diesel vapor) coming out from under the hood after i crank it over. I can't tell where its coming from because it just shows up from almost everywhere it seems. If i was to guess i would say it is leaking from the IP somewhere and also out of the intake manifold but there shouldnt be diesel in the intake right? I dont want to say this but i am starting to think it could be a head gasket, which isn't in the budget at the moment however i was planning on doing the steel gasket and ARP studs. Is there any common areas for fuel to leak from? It seems there is enough compression because it does load up the starter as it turns over and it feels normal to turn it with a wrench. I would rather not do a compression test because of the disposable heat shields and the head cracking risk. Im gonna try to fire it one more time tonight and then i have a heavy duty mechanic friend coming over sunday. I hope its something simple i am over looking.

Thanks for the help guys i wouldnt have made it this far without you guys.

others can confirm/deny but my most common issues have been post IP at the hard-line fittings. I just had a hair line crack in one of the hard-lines which only showed up while engine running... and spraying fuel everywhere. I just finished replacing the fuel line hoses between the tank and the hard-lines that run under the frame to the engine compartment. I'm assuming yours are all new with the swap but it's worth double checking.
Do you have a clear fuel line you can watch for bubbles in?
Did fuel come out when you cranked with the injector lines loose?
Do you see any wet spots on/around the IP after cranking?

[TDsamurai]

My lines are not new i use the factory fuel lines for it, they worked with the factory engine now leaks no issues. Can i purchase new pre-bent hard lines? or is that as much of a hassle as i think? I dont think that is the case as i had them off and looked them over pretty good and my engine wont even get running.

No clear fuel line.
Fuel came out of the lines. I even put my finger under one of the lines and turned the pump by hand with the fuel on and it pushes my finger off.
Initially when i was priming the pump with the priming bulb i plumbed in, fuel came out around the throttle linkage pivot. I wiped it up and since then it hasnt seemed to get any wetter.

Is it possible i squeezed too hard i dont think i squeezed very hard.

I would rather a headgasket than an IP issue, if its IP i think it would be worth saving up and just getting a giles pump.

[theman53]

Diesel and hands don't mix don't put your finger near the hard lines if they are leaking diesel ever.

I would guess that your timing is way off. You can move the pump over a tooth of adjustment. Did you clean the IP mount before putting it in? If not you can see where it had been for a starting point. I would go toward the engine as that should be advancing it. The white smoke deal is probably just unburnt fuel. If it is coming from all over the engine it could be oil from assembly getting hot and burning off.

Something else to try would be a shot of WD-40 in the intake just to see if it lights. Not much just a squirt while a friend is cranking. I know you said the glow plugs work, but do they work? I mean do you have them on a seliniod or GP relay and they are gettting power? Lastly, one guy on here had a stop seliniod that would half work. Made the pop noise gave some fuel, but he had issues. Replaced it with new and all is well.

[TDsamurai]

Yea i know not to put my hand near the lines if its running i was just turning the pump by hand. I would guess my timing is out too except its really hard to screw it up when everything is locked out haha. Yea i cleaned the mount and i even painted the whole engine. I have the pump advanced as much as it can be and it seems most likely to fire. If i retard the timing a little then no smoke comes out the stack. The glowplugs have to be working i checked each one with a test light to make sure they have power, and i am using brand new 10g wire and a brand new ford starter solenoid. And sometimes i can hear a bit of combustion when i hit the glow plugs shortly after a cranking attempt. I just priced out a shut off solenoid its $100 thats just stupid, hopefully i can find a different issue before it gets here.

[mtrans]

Some say their engines would run with 180 degrees off of fuel timing.

100% approved,start hard but even driveable like.1st time rebuild.

[TDsamurai]

so i had a heavy duty mechanic i know come over and help me out. Turns out my turbo wasnt spinning so we tried to see whats goin on there. Popped the oil fill cap and turned it over and we have diesel coming out the crankcase. So im thinking most likely headgasket anyone have any other thoughts or most common causes? I will be ordering some ARP studs and a steel headgasket as soon as i figure out what size i need and what not.

As far as the gaskets go i know there are different thicknesses for different heads and blocks or what have you. But i would like this to go as quickly as possible and have all my parts soon. Would it be a bad idea to just run the thickest gasket which will lower the compression but will allow for more boost?

Im going to begin my headgasket research as of now.

First thing i thought it was, was a headgasket but i guess i was in denile.

If anyone has any links that are helpful that i wont find in the FAQ please post them up, I havent even been able to find a manual yet so either i need to get the bentley or need to find some good info on this. I would like to pull the head tonight so the first thing i need to find is the sequence to untorque the head.

Thanks for the help guys