-
timing issues
by
dieselputput
on 01 Jun, 2010 12:51
-
ok so i did my timing belt the other day as well as my front crankshaft seal. everything was at TDC and i went to start it and it cranked and cranked but didn't fire had a lug lug sound to it. i set the cam and pump to TDC and noticed my crank was off ao i set that once i got the belt off again and put everything back together and went for a start it cranked and cranked then when it fired up it rev'd up really high and shut down. tried one more time and did the same thing is this a timing issue for the pump or am i looking at more serious issues as far as i know if you have a bent or broken valve it shouldn't fire but i may be wrong
it is a 91 1V eco motor the turbo is not on it though
any help is welcomed thank you all
-
#1
by
burn_your_money
on 01 Jun, 2010 19:27
-
Unrelated but did you replace the crank bolt? It is a stretch bolt.
When you were doing your timing did you loosen the cam gear from the camshaft? Are you using the proper tools or eyeballing it? How many mm advance did you set the pump to?
Did you turn the engine over by hand first to ensure nothing was hitting?
-
#2
by
Baron VonZeppelin
on 01 Jun, 2010 21:17
-
In addition to BYM's questions, did the engine run proper before you changed the belt ?
The crank parameter is pretty strait up if the pointer hasn't been broken off your tranny case.
The cam parameter is foolproof with a slide lockbar in place.
The injection pump can be 180* off by accident sometimes.
There is an indicator mark on front or back of cam sprocket.
And the keyway can indicate too, the keyway should be pointing back at the engine - not towards the radiator.
The cam sprocket needs to be loosened from its pressed fit during belt replacement before setting parameters. Its best to do it first off.
Insert slidebar lock into cam - then shim it tightly.
I use a wide blade putty knife, tapped in between lockbar and head.
Loosen cam sprocket bolt about 1/4"
Slip a 6mm bolt through the hole in the top of the timing cover backing plate - strike that a few times with a hammer - you might need to rotate the sprocket a time or two. When sprocket breaks free, retighten bolt only about finger tight - no more.
Retightening the cam sprocket bolt (40 ft lbs) is the LAST step, after the pump and tensioner are set where you want them. Any movement of the belt tensioner or inj pump will change your other parameters if the cam sprocket is not free to roll a bit.
IF you do not shim the cam slide lockbar tightly, you risk breaking the cam on either side or both sides of the slot. It is brittle cast iron. Unshimmed, any force applied exerts completely to the corners only - and many folks have broken them that way.
Just a heads up in case you need it
-
#3
by
dieselputput
on 02 Jun, 2010 08:38
-
Unrelated but did you replace the crank bolt? It is a stretch bolt.
*yes as well as have another one just incase i need to pull it off again*
When you were doing your timing did you loosen the cam gear from the camshaft? Are you using the proper tools or eyeballing it? How many mm advance did you set the pump to?
to answer these three no, eyeballing what?, and i didn't advance the pump at all i put a bolt that fit perfectly into the locking point to keep it where it was
Did you turn the engine over by hand first to ensure nothing was hitting?
yes all seemed good just felt like my compression was really good at some points
-
#4
by
burn_your_money
on 02 Jun, 2010 09:37
-
Eyeballing the cam lock is what I was trying to ask.
The pump lock is only to get it within range. You then need to use a dial indicator to set the timing.
I'd recommend giving this a read
http://vincewaldon.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=24&Itemid=28If you don't have the tools you can do it by ear.
How long did it take you to do the belt job (as in, how long was the car sitting for)
-
#5
by
dieselputput
on 02 Jun, 2010 09:42
-
as far as eye balling the cam lock i thought there was only one way to get it in the and it did not move after i had it in
also i had the belt off over night had to wait for a front crank shaft seal to come in thought it would be alright leaving it over night all the locks were in place and no one would have touched it at all
-
#6
by
burn_your_money
on 02 Jun, 2010 09:50
-
Some people do it without the tool and just eye it up.
Since it was only 1 or 2 days then it's unlikely that something happened to the pump.
I would suspect air and an improperly timed pump. You may just need to crank it some more and then she'll go.
-
#7
by
dieselputput
on 02 Jun, 2010 09:54
-
one thing i have read and forgot to check until now is my cold start cable was pulled out how much does this screw me?
she fires up but reves up really high and shuts herself down thats what is worrying me
-
#8
by
burn_your_money
on 02 Jun, 2010 09:56
-
If you didn't use the dial indicator it has no effect.
So you aren't touching the throttle and it just revs and then quits?
Is the throttle against the idle stop? How high is high?
Normally these pumps are governed at a safe RPM level for the engine so even if it's screaming it's not going to blow.
-
#9
by
dieselputput
on 02 Jun, 2010 10:00
-
If you didn't use the dial indicator it has no effect.
ok
So you aren't touching the throttle and it just revs and then quits?
no i am not touching the gas and as soon as it fires up it revs up like it is stuck at WOT and shuts itself down and it happens quick it isn't a slow progression of RPM's
Is the throttle against the idle stop? How high is high?
don't know what the idle stop is. and i don't have a tach so i couldn't say
Normally these pumps are governed at a safe RPM level for the engine so even if it's screaming it's not going to blow.
i just worry that something else is going on
-
#10
by
Baron VonZeppelin
on 02 Jun, 2010 11:02
-
1. Did the engine run proper before you did this belt job ?
2. The idle stop is a bolt that the accelerator arm on the inj pump rests against when the engine is shut off, or idling.
3. Check the connection of where the wire plugs onto the fuel stop solenoid of the inj pump. The fuel stop solenoid is located towards the top section of the inj pump - towards the end that the injection lines run from. And the general condition of that same wire for as much as you can see of it.
-
#11
by
dieselputput
on 03 Jun, 2010 07:17
-
thank you for all your help got it figured out it was air in the fuel line
ended up base timing it and it ran like garbage because it was not compensating for the lack of turbo so put it back to where it was bled the fuel lines and she purrs like a rabid tomcat
thank you once again for everyones help i really do apreciate it all
-
#12
by
burn_your_money
on 03 Jun, 2010 14:14
-
Glad to hear you got it sorted out.