Fuel injector confusion: which one is correct for '86 Jetta GL Turbo diesel? - IDI Engine - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.

• Fuel injector confusion: which one is correct for '86 Jetta GL Turbo diesel? by 78sharpshooter on 27 May, 2010 10:57
• I have searched this forum and autohausAZ, germanautoparts.com, rockauto.com, kragen, napa, bosch e-online catalog etc and called for the last 3 hours and the results were autohausAZ says NA11X does not work, Kragen says NA11X works, germanautoparts.com says NA11X works, napa was no help......etc. I found previous threads with NA11X not working but some threads saying NA11X now works since NA14X is out. So I am looking for the up to date info on which number is correct but also WHERE should I get them from.
  
  I pulled my injectors to inspect them and 2 were wet with fuel so I just want to replace all of them.
• #1 by Baron VonZeppelin on 27 May, 2010 12:03
• Things have changed in the past year or so.
  
  12X used to be TD (155 bar) designation - for a long time.
  Now 11X is the 155 bar. Bosch changed the menu around.
  No idea why.
  
  Whoever you go with, just verify they are 155 bar pressure.
  Check offerings on 85 and 86 TD, because some sites don't cover an 86 TD in the states - even though they do exist.
  
  I just checked 85 TD on AhausAZ and it shows 11X @ 36.90 plus 11.09 core.
  
  The Bosch Reman'd units will have the bar pressure stamped into the body of the injectors. Verify each one after you get them, to make sure no old stock was mixed with new stock.
  11X used to be 130 bar for mechanical 1.6
  
  Autohaus AZ and partsgeek seem to be the best price on Bosch Reman'd units. With AhausAZ you'll get free shipping.
  
  You can also just buy the new Bosch nozzles for about $10 each.
  Same for all 1.6 TD and NA.
  
  If you think you might ever replace your glowplugs in the future - now would be the easiest chance you'll ever get at it.
  Bosch DuraTerm will work with fast or slow relays, for about $10 each.
  
  You might already know this - but just in case - always apply your tool force TOWARDS the cylinder head whether loosening or tightening an injector. Do NOT apply tool force towards the radiator.
  The thin lip around the bottom of boss can easily break off or crack.
  
   
  
  
  
  
• #2 by 78sharpshooter on 27 May, 2010 12:16
• Thanks for the info. I would love to simply replace the nozzles but because there are 220K on the injectors would it not be a wise decision do that? Do the springs get fatigued to the point where the popoff pressure drops?
• #3 by vanbcguy on 27 May, 2010 12:52
• Just replacing the nozzles without doing anything else is far better than running with old nozzles.  But yeah, if you want the best results possible they need to be recalibrated.
• #4 by Baron VonZeppelin on 27 May, 2010 13:04
• Yes, the opening pressure can drop from fatigue.
  
  I have an 89 Jetta with 350,000+ miles. This winter I replaced the injectors with Reman'd Bosch. The old ones were originals with VW and Audi logos stamped on them and looked way better than expected when pulled . But needed new nozzles or nozzle cleaning prep at minimum.
  
  I can't say whether or not they had been rebuilt at some time or not - but i was surprised to see those logos when i cleaned them up a bit after removal. Those are only used on the production/assembly line.
  
  Since the new parts were in hand - and i wanted to do the car a favor anyway - i put the new ones in.
  
  The only difference the new Remand's made was it quite burning  oil under driving conditions, and low speed off idle grunt was just a lil better. Which is what i was after anyway - but had hopes of even better results than that.
  
  I could have just swapped nozzles and probably been just as well off. Pure Judgement Call as to which way to go.
  
  If you have other things to drive and can let the car be down a few extra days - you could take old injectors to a diesel shop and have them pop-tested first. If they were in range - i'd just do nozzles on my own.
  
  Having a shop rebuild them and apply new Bosch nozzles and setting proper specs will cost as much - likely more - than buying through AhausAZ. Most will charge premium retail for nozzles. Some 'might' let you supply your own nozzles. But all that gets tricky with them sometimes.
  
  You can have several options if you are not in a rush on downtime.
• #5 by 78sharpshooter on 27 May, 2010 14:39
• I wanted to replace the motor mounts and get an oil pan gasket so I just ordered the NA11X from autohausaz and called them to have them checked the stamped BAR rating on the injectors prior to shipping to make sure they say 155 bar. When I just checked the current injectors one of them is leaking pretty bad. They are the original ones and say 155 bar on them.
• #6 by Smokey Eddy on 27 May, 2010 16:49
• Quote from: Baron VonZeppelin on 27 May, 2010 12:03

  You might already know this - but just in case - always apply your tool force TOWARDS the cylinder head whether loosening or tightening an injector. Do NOT apply tool force towards the radiator.
  The thin lip around the bottom of boss can easily break off or crack.
  

  
  by "break off or crack" what he really means to say is, you're going to mash your nuckles on something serated like the radiator or the bracket that holds the throttle cable.
  After you've cleaned up the blood from that, you'll see a shiny piece of alluminium on the ground. Seeing as it is part of the injector boss, and you'll be staring straight at the threads for the injector in the head, with tears in your eyes, the realization will hit you, like a sack of bricks from 2 stories up, that your head is now totalled and was perfectly fine 60 seconds ago.
• #7 by theman53 on 27 May, 2010 16:52
• The head I ruined I just tightened and all of the sudden it felt like the injector was getting loose. It cracked the boss and trashed the head. No knuckle busting or shinny aluminum, but there was the tear shed for me being noobed.