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#30
by
theman53
on 24 May, 2010 20:57
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Well it might be salvagable now. Good luck.
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#31
by
Vincent Waldon
on 24 May, 2010 20:59
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Post some pics.... post some pics....
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#32
by
Thezorn
on 24 May, 2010 22:58
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I will tomorrow vince, I work till 5 tomorrow so ill try and pull the pulleys off the crank tomorrow and check the carnage
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#33
by
Thezorn
on 24 May, 2010 23:11
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Also ordered a bentley today so I am anxiously awaiting its arivale
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#34
by
Thezorn
on 25 May, 2010 22:33
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Finally pictures have arrived
The victim.
The culprit (It was finger tight when I got around to taking it off)
Now I need to know if this is 100% nessesary to get machined?
as you can see there is only a small corner of the key whole that has been damaged.
Well, okay then. Who need this anyways...
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#35
by
Thezorn
on 27 May, 2010 00:03
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Deffinatley dont thing the timing belt was ever changed on my car before... The one I pulled seems to be the original since it has the OEM vw numbers on it with the "MADE IN GERMANY" right beside it. Yikes
On a plus side, the new timing belt I picked up made by Continental, only cost me 13 dollars. Quote for the timing belt was 56 bucks and then it rang in at 13
Made sure I was actually getting the right belt, must have been the wrong number the teller rang in.
I didn't complain...
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#36
by
vanbcguy
on 27 May, 2010 12:40
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Make sure you replace the timing belt tensioner too!!
Just based on the "fun" I had a few months ago I'd probably recommend doing the oil seals while you've already got everything apart. Cam seal, IM shaft seal and crank seal are no big deal when you've got the engine stripped down to that point, and they're hella cheap.
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#37
by
Thezorn
on 28 May, 2010 10:46
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Yea I already have te new cam and IM shaft seals, new valve cover gasket and grommets should be in today along with the new crank sprocket.
Whould anyone be able to tell me what size Head gasket I should be running? Im guess since they are the stock pistons an there wont be any new amount of protrusion thatte 1 notch gasket will do me jut fine.
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#38
by
vanbcguy
on 28 May, 2010 23:33
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Only way to know is to measure the protrusion - factory tolerances were wide enough to have a variety of sizes from the factory in the first place.
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#39
by
Thezorn
on 28 May, 2010 23:41
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Alright.
Has anyone else had as much trouble as i have been have to get the bottom timing cover off? I cant get it off for the life of me.
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#40
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 29 May, 2010 06:53
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it takes 5 minutes or less. 3 bolts and 1 nut holding it on IIRC. one bolt is behind the crank pulley, right above the timing sprocket, kinda hiding.
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#41
by
Thezorn
on 29 May, 2010 22:26
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oh yea i know im gettng that far, but it is stuck behind the water pump pulley and in between some other stuff. Do I need to take the water pump pully off? cause it sure seems like it.
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#42
by
Thezorn
on 30 May, 2010 11:32
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I knew it.
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#43
by
Thezorn
on 30 May, 2010 21:00
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Got the new crank sprocket on, set the timing, put here all back together, and started her up.
I dont think it has ever ran this smooth. The Idle is about 10 times smoother, more power, and im waiting on my MPG to go up also.
Thanks for all the help guys.
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#44
by
blackbird82
on 07 Jun, 2011 09:02
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Interesting, my 94 has a really rough idle
but when i first did the timing belt i checked this and I had a TDI pulley
but even it was worn. course this was before I finally got a clutched alt pulley.
I think I might have to get into it again.
I miss smooth idles