Newbie - 1986 MK2 Golf 1.6D NA

[burn_your_money]

Engines are easy to swap and it doesn't effect the timing

[JGVWDiesel]

yeah,  thats my plan. ill eventually find a nice rust free golf or jetta and drop my engine in if their engine isnt any good.

[JGVWDiesel]

Question, the idle stop screw is the screw at the far end of the injection pump (looking from the front of the car) correct? I loosened the nut and turned the screw back but it didn't affect the idle at all. If anything, it gave more dead space for when engaging the throttle to it actually responding. Is this normal??

(Reasoning for the idle stop screw messing around is I'm just trying to adjust the idle by ear to see if it might be a bit too high or something.)

[JGVWDiesel]

Oh yeah, I also did a can of diesel purge through the engine. Let me know how you think the engine sounds in relation to it's KM.

[JGVWDiesel]

Update...

The rust on the golf has progressed to an unsafe level now. I'm not going to drive it anymore, and I think I'm going to pull the engine, tranmission, and other things that I will need to keep and scrap the body. $400 for 9 months of cheap service was pretty good to me.

[8v-of-fury]

sounds like she runs well. Sad the body has died. why not patch it up real quick with some cutting wheels, sheet metal, tar and rivets  

[JGVWDiesel]

well, I was thinking about it but the rust is pretty bad and it would take a lot of work to try and patch it. It had been previously tarred before all under the floor pans. Currently, the driver side and passenger side under and behind the seats floor is literally hanging down 1/2 - 1" or so, meaning it could tear down at anytime and I'm worried if I tried to repair it that I may not find good metal to rivet or weld for quite some time.

[theman53]

Yeah, page 5 or so of my build documents the nasty rust issue well. I fixed all of my VW floor pans...some better than others. Until the Jetta I usually made a sheet metal sandwich and screwed, bolted, rivoted, and welded it all up so that the new stuff was above and below the rust. It will get you by for a long time. It just looks bad.
Here is a pic of my old jetta's floor.

[JGVWDiesel]

definetely an option, since I don't care about how the thing looks its just so cheap to run and fun to drive. thanks ill look at your topic!

[JGVWDiesel]

I'll get some pics up after the rain has subsided of just how severe the rust is, but I think my only option is to just tear out the carpet and seats and start cutting out all the bad metal and weld in new patches or possibly more.

I haven't done riveting before, just done a bunch of welding on my cars. Anyone care to share a bit on riveting benefits?

[theman53]

Rivots are quick. Well, that is about the end of the benefits.
Weld is definately better, but takes tons of time. That is what I did. I don't have a bunch of cool tools like a brake or roller or shear so it takes forever to get it close and weld. I basically have 1/2 of both sides of the floor in my jetta new. I would have done all of it but couldn't find floor pans and making every piece really started to suck.

[8v-of-fury]

they are a uni-body design, so the floor does flex with the car around corners. Riveting will work, but it may flex and undo it self. Nut and bolts would work very well to have this subdued, with red loctite.

[JGVWDiesel]

the other thing I was considering was finding a good body to swap my engine and tranny into, I can't imagine this would be that hard.

Is it a problem swapping it into an MK3??

[8v-of-fury]

a 1.6 NA would be disgustingly slow in a Fatty mk3 lol. Find another good bodied mk2 (85-92) direct swap in to either a gas or diesel. Take you literally a day if your mechanically inclined.