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Got a nasty rubbing/clunking sound..
by
8v-of-fury
on 05 May, 2010 18:21
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So upon driving, there is (when the motor has load on it.. ie hills, starts, accelerating hard) a grinding/rubbing noise.. Now what I think it is, is that the rear and front motor mounts are practically non existent..
And then at some points, the mount moves over and I have a metal on metal vibrating of the engine torquing..
How hard is it to change the front and rear mounts with the motor in the car? please tell me a jack and a ratchet are all I need
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#1
by
lovinthedeez
on 05 May, 2010 19:06
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mk1 or 2?
if mk1, then the front and rear mounts can be done quite easily. neither are pressed in. the side mounts are both pressed in, and usually cause more vibration when they go bad.
if mk2, the same applies here. the only difference is that the passenger side mount attaches to the back of the block, making it easier to change out.
I hate to say it, but i would replace all four mounts.........
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#2
by
8v-of-fury
on 05 May, 2010 19:28
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Yeah replacing all 4 mounts are in my mind, however I am looking for an AAZ.. so it will most likely be on the swap list. do it will the engine is out. you know?
either it is that, or one cv is going out.. which i suspect.. because i had a mad wheel wobble like 3 weeks ago.. but not since.. I don't get it.
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#3
by
Smokey Eddy
on 05 May, 2010 19:59
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Most odd. I don't immediately understand it either.
i'd leave the engine mounts for now.
I drove my build without the hood on and you could see the cam breather dissapear when it was under load it twisted SO much. MY mounts are likely wrecked or GOING TO BE wrecked in the very near future.
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#4
by
8v-of-fury
on 05 May, 2010 20:01
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I hope the AAZ shreds something, not to be mean, but out of pure awesomeness.
lol
The front and rear are most certainly shot.. I GOTTA FIND ME AN AAZ!
p.s thanks for the offer to crate one up Ed
might take you up on it lol.
I thought they were popular out here.. seems there mostly mk3 TDI's!
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#5
by
Smokey Eddy
on 05 May, 2010 22:53
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there are a lot more mk3 tdi's than anything else.
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#6
by
8v-of-fury
on 05 May, 2010 22:54
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i would so go that route too, but there is a lot of work involved.. which im sure isnt that hard.. but i need an in and out as it is my DD...
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#7
by
8v-of-fury
on 05 May, 2010 22:58
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Oh also. For when I do replace my mounts.. which ones are alright to do poly mounts? the back and front? I can't remember at all. Also I saw a cool poly control arm bushing kit for an mk1 for like $70?? I think, this would really tighten up the front end a bunch eh?
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#8
by
mystery3
on 06 May, 2010 01:07
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If you enjoy a lot of NHV you can use poly motor mounts all around.
The prothane poly cab's are only $30 IIRC. They seem to be of good quality but as far as actual performance hopefully I'll have more insight next week as currently my control arms are sitting in a box in the garage.
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#9
by
8v-of-fury
on 06 May, 2010 10:25
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I don't know if I want to go poly all around, I've heard bad things. However I did hear that it was perfectly ok (and doesnt transmit to many vibes) to do two of the four mounts with the poly insert.. I just can't recall which two.
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#10
by
maxfax
on 06 May, 2010 10:29
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I usually use poly on the front and rear mounts, and plain ole rubber on the two side mounts.. IT sort of gives the better of both.. The engine rocks front to back much less, but all the engine vibration isn't transmitted to the body... Plus I seem to trash the rear mount first then of course that trashes the front and side mounts.. The polys seem to cure that...
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#11
by
8v-of-fury
on 06 May, 2010 14:39
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I thought it was the front and rear too, thanks for clearing that up Brett
I hill climbed the 81 on Tuesday and most certainly shredded whatever was left of them LOL. its a crazy hill. Its the back access route to a skill hill
something like a %18 grade for nearly 600m