1984 Jetta , TDI WE MUST! (1.9 AHU M-TDI)

[snakemaster]

i have had 3 land rover pumps on my 1.9 tdi some moded some std , and i have build 2 1.9 aaz pumps converted to mtdi pumps that are maxed with nice bits , and thay will toast the landrover pumps in std and mild tune

[8v-of-fury]

What all did you have done to the 1.9 pumps to make power on the DI engine?

[snakemaster]

mod gov , and more travel lever one from difrant pump , transit or welded control lever , 11mm head , lda mod top and bottom for more travel , some times no guts in it depends on what control lever i use , index thotle , max fuel screw  , thay would hang on the revs a little but way beter torque than a std LR pump , i run most of my stuff with 110 hp injectors and a gt15 turbo , big down pipe , blanked egr , no wast gate pipe , but gage over taking 32psi 50seconds or no more than 17psi on load for longer times

[8v-of-fury]

Not too shabby, You have WAY more parts over there to experiment with than we do on this side of the pond . For us, a complete unit such as the Land Rover pump does well. I never did have an 11mm in my 1.9 pump.. only the 10mm.

Got a ton of work done this evening, but was held up from finishing.











Coolant and Oil systems buttoned up and ready to JAM! BUT THE FUEL SYSTEM IS HOLDING ME UP. As can be seen in my last two pictures the mk1 fuel filter uses a 19mm headed banjo bolt.. and I only have one of them. I figured this out as I was buttoning the fuel system up. GAH, I need the car on the road for the weekend BTW haha. Does anyone have any idea if the dealer can get me these older larger banjo bolts? OR where I can get one aftermarket stylez?

For reference sake, I ended up having to use the mk3 TDI hardline and the mk3 TDI hardline to waterpump lines with the one hose that goes to the stock oil cooler blocked off. I used a 1.6 NA diesel by-pass hose behind the injection pump. I also used an mk2 NA or TD hardline to over flow bottle as it fit my setup better. I used the mk3 style rad to overflow small hose, where it goes from the front rad neck instead of the rad.. slightly cleaner look.

Seriously though peeps, I really need a larger banjo bolt hose end! ASAP.

[libbydiesel]

You could tap it to the closest NPT and install a brass barb. 

[8v-of-fury]

You could tap it to the closest NPT and install a brass barb. 

I love you. srsly. 

LMFAO. Genius, thank-you. I have been wracking brain over the whole thing the past little while so I am scattered. This was literally the only hiccup though .

[CRSMP5]

tap nipple on rad?? your nuts.. get a cap for it... you break that nipple you buying rad...

id rethink hoseclamps on them oil cooler hoses dude.. 150psi oil cold in am = oil mess real fast.. if your going to use clamps get german/swiss screw style like oe vw ones the mk1s had..

dude also rethink lower hose.. it cannot rest on the alt like that.. it will chaif and when accel will lift on that hose pulling on the lower nipple... its going to break something...

[8v-of-fury]

Not the rad nipple Chris, for the mk1 style fuel filter. It was a used cooler setup and came with those hose clamps, so I assume they worked with the guy using 10w30 I use a 0w40 Synthetic I should be golden eh? lol.

The oil cooler hoses just lightly touch the alt, but they will have a piece of hose put around them to stop the chafing. The picture may look like a tight fit, but there is plenty of play in those hoses.

[CrazyAndy]

Do you mind telling me the length of those oil cooler hoses?  I'm getting some lines made up for my own setup and could use a ballpark figure to go around.  I'd add an inch or two to what those are, since I'm getting a local NAPA to make them, and the stuff they use is usually for trucks and farm equipment so you know it's gonna be tough to bend. 

Off-topic, come to think of it, they'd probably help me splice my 1.6/1.9 turbo drain hoses!

[CRSMP5]

Do you mind telling me the length of those oil cooler hoses?  I'm getting some lines made up for my own setup and could use a ballpark figure to go around.  I'd add an inch or two to what those are, since I'm getting a local NAPA to make them, and the stuff they use is usually for trucks and farm equipment so you know it's gonna be tough to bend. 

Off-topic, come to think of it, they'd probably help me splice my 1.6/1.9 turbo drain hoses!

[ORCoaster]

Crazy Andy.  I put a second oil filter on my 81 and it is under the drivers side behind the bumper.  I used some power steering hose as it was the only thing I could trust to take the 130 PSI when cold and be oil compatible.  Ended up buying 6 ft but I bet I could have done 5.  It was 3 bucks a foot at Auto Ozone.  Might have found it cheaper elsewhere but the guy cut it then told me the price.  Then he triple checked it and saw that was for a foot not all 6 feet.  Dang almost had a bargain. 

[8v-of-fury]

My car is being a total gong show with trying to get it going..

I've got an electric pump, and clear lines.. so I know my pump is full of fuel. I have fuel at three of the four injectors, so they are pretty much fully bled. I am getting a small amount of fuel whisps from the exhaust.. but not one hint of wanting to fire off. Why does it hate me when I show it love?

I tore the pump down and put in a new main shaft seal and I tore the injectors down and did new nozzles. The pump is moving fuel (via the clear lines and bled injectors), and the injectors were put back together in a tub of diesel fuel so they are clean too. Pump-Cam-Crank timing is perfect, no questions there. It was a long hot day, so I used the locks this time .

The pump timing may be a little off, but that has never hindered a start before even when it was cold out.. and today I was dealing with like 80f ambient temps while attempting lift-off. What gives?

Fuel, Air, Heat.. I've got all three lol. Oh for reference, the pump settings didn't change from when it ran two weeks ago.. really only the nozzles...............................

As I just wrote that out... Because of the now larger injector nozzles, does the pump need re-setup? ie. more fuel screw? SunuvaBISH!

[8v-of-fury]

You could tap it to the closest NPT and install a brass barb. 

The 1/4 pipe thread brass nipple threaded right in and I sealed it with JB weld haha. It is guaranteed sealed for the life of the vehicle.

UPDATE

Got it running. Brain was a mushy platter of, well.. mush. I turned the fuel screw way out because it is easier to get the lids on the pumps without them protruding in to the pumps internals.. SO It was about 8 full turns to far out to even fuel an idle with the pedal on the floor lol!

I turned it in pretty much until it bottomed out, and then got it to start and only stay running with pedal. Perfect, I am close. The  throttle arm was one spline out. Move it one spline and I got a screamer upon hitting the key. No problem, back the fuel screw out 1 full turn and retry. Still too high, but close. One half turn more totaling 1.5 full turns out, and the car was holding a perfect idle and no hanging upon revs. It would also keep that solid idle when accessories were turned on, and I mean turned on. I turned on my rad fan, defroster, headlights and the cabin fan on high. The idle only just barely came down. Some of you may recall that I had a battle with a rocky idle since doing the swap, I want to place nearly full blame on the CRUSTY old stock injectors with over 500k on them!

The pump is now a modified 300 TDI Land Rover unit, with 1.6TD delivery valves, an AAZ cam disk/plate, roughly 4.5mm of governor shimming and a 1.6 NA/TD idle spring in the governor cage.

Running like a mint, don't ask where I have my timing set.. I didn't use a gauge or check it lol.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SOtE0mA3KGs

[8v-of-fury]

id rethink hoseclamps on them oil cooler hoses dude.. 150psi oil cold in am = oil mess real fast..

dude also rethink lower hose.. it cannot rest on the alt like that.. it will chaif and when accel will lift on that hose pulling on the lower nipple... its going to break something...

I thought more in to this, and the cold oil pressure shouldn't have an effect on the oil cooler.. because it is thermostatically controlled flow there will be no oil flowing through there when under 180f.

I got it running Friday after work at about 730pm and left for a 200km road trip at 8pm haha. Mind the air filter, its temporary.. going in the rain tray, as well as the washer reservoir !




This is the new Operating Temperature PHewww, cool. Idle Hot Oil pressure too.

[libbydiesel]

I thought more in to this, and the cold oil pressure shouldn't have an effect on the oil cooler.. because it is thermostatically controlled flow there will be no oil flowing through there when under 180f.

Flow and pressure are two different things and you can certainly have pressure without flow.  Most likely that thermostatic control opens a bypass channel so the oil can bypass the cooler but one leg of the cooler will still be open to the gallery.  In that situation the cooler will still be pressurized to the same pressure as the oil gallery.