1984 Jetta , TDI WE MUST! (1.9 AHU M-TDI) - page 19 - User's ride Wall - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.

• #270 by 410 on 24 Apr, 2012 13:46
• Quote from: 8v-of-fury on 24 Apr, 2012 12:16

  Also removing the top lid spring will make it act just as it always did. as that is how the early pumps did it. the one without the idle bump on the cold start lever.
  

  This only works when there is an idle spring on the governor.  I always use 1.6 tops so this is never an issue.
• #271 by carrizog60 on 24 Apr, 2012 13:58
• i dont have the 1.6 spring,so i assume that the one that goes to the top is controlling idle,right?
  
  as for fuel demands in IDI vs TDI:is there such a diference?i mean,there are IDI´s running more than 240hp so the fuel demand is big,way bigger than a tdi with same power(tdi more efficient so will need less fuel)
  
  i am not planning a 300hp IDI lol but i would like to fuel it properly on the entire rpm range and reach above 150/160hp so my fuel demand already is high
• #272 by 8v-of-fury on 24 Apr, 2012 19:46
• Here we have a 1.9AAZ governor assembly and a 1.6NA governor assembly, Notice the 1/8" different lengths?? The cages are identical in size, but the actual shaft differs.. why is this? Weird, thought I would point it it out that they are not the same. I will be using the 1.6 one with the 1.6 lid and all.
  
  
• #273 by carrizog60 on 25 Apr, 2012 14:21
• N/A shorter
  maybe because N/A dont have the LDA shafts?
• #274 by 8v-of-fury on 25 Apr, 2012 21:52
• Quote from: carrizog60 on 25 Apr, 2012 14:21

  N/A shorter
  maybe because N/A dont have the LDA shafts?
  

  
  No, the longer of the two on the left is the 1.6 N/A governor..! lol. I did end up using the shorter one.
  
  Alright to the minds out there, I got the pump all back together and ready to install yesterday after work.
  
  From this!!
  
  
  To This!!
  
  
  Today after work I got it installed and timed up (not to any actual setting as I do not have a dial adapter that will fit, yet.). I put it roughly at the middle point of the settings for moving the pump and left the bolts just snug so I could still move the pump around once I got it primed and running. My electric pump primed the system no problem so that I only had to crank may be 5 times and it was running, from a bone dry system.
  
  So after I get it all together, I attempt a start. It catches but races away with a HUGE, THICK cloud of smoke. I mean, tractor pull thick.. the kind to block out allll sunlight. So I shut it down with the key, I had the clutch ready to be dumped and the brake pedal stomped though . So I figure to my self, hmm I must have the idle set to high and the max fuel in too far as I just set them in the ballpark for initial stat up and then tune once running. So I back them both off, and advance the timing a good amount as it was smoking ALOT. The advance helped with the huge cloud of smoke, to a degree.. but the engine still catches and races away. I cannot tell how many rpm's because of my completely open exhaust, and tiny k03.. all you hear is turbo even at idle . I even tried indexing the throttle arm to throttle shaft a few spots back to release tension on the governor if there was any, didn't seem there was as it didn't change anything.
  
  So what exactly is happening in there?? Do you figure the shorter governor shaft is messing with stuff? It couldn't possibly be making it that bad.
  
  I have one idea as to what it could be.. Could the newly modified throttle arm be sticking the fuel collar in the more fuel position??
• #275 by 410 on 25 Apr, 2012 23:35
• Try backing the max fuel screw waaaay out.  Like to the point where it is just starting to push on the lever and try again.  If then you can't get it to start, slowly turn the fuel screw in until it idles.  If you find you have poor control with the throttle lever at this point there is something binding on the inside  See next paragraph.  If you have good throttle response then the fuel screw was turned in too far but you're now at a starting point for adjustments.
  
  I assemble the top of the pump without the lever springs and install the lever.  You should be able to feel when the  governor springs get compressed as you get close to the full throttle stop.  If you feel any binding the lever assembly is rubbing something in the top of the pump.
• #276 by theman53 on 26 Apr, 2012 09:03
• What about that other part that you have to access from the gear side of the pump? The nut that isn't painted gold on your pump right behind the gear. I thought that helped control the gov. some?
  
  8v...I think you maybe a bit north for the stars and bars. I lol'ed when I saw that as I have people that have said the same to me and I am in Ohio.
• #277 by 8v-of-fury on 26 Apr, 2012 20:25
• Quote from: 410 on 25 Apr, 2012 23:35

  Try backing the max fuel screw waaaay out.  
  

  
  I had it backed considerably out.. but not like crazy out or anything.. DAMNIT. Wish i read this before I pulled the pump lol . I seem to recall on assembly that it may have felt weird, but didn't have another to reference.. I have another stock pump tore down so I will reference its throttle movement and see how the m-tdi is.
  
  

  Quote from: theman53 on 26 Apr, 2012 09:03

  What about that other part that you have to access from the gear side of the pump? The nut that isn't painted gold on your pump right behind the gear. I thought that helped control the gov. some?
  
  8v...I think you maybe a bit north for the stars and bars. I lol'ed when I saw that as I have people that have said the same to me and I am in Ohio.
  

  
  Yes the governor shaft, it never changed. The shaft and locking nut were indexed the same as before removal.
  
  Stars and Bars, never heard them call that. I think of this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pqaf2wP7hQE&skipcontrinter=1 That decal is on the bottom of my beer fridge lol!
• #278 by 410 on 26 Apr, 2012 21:08
• The adjustment at the front of the pump is not related to fueling.  It only affects timing under load.  Which might seem strange that it adjusts the shaft that supports the governor.
• #279 by theman53 on 26 Apr, 2012 21:11
• odd
• #280 by 410 on 26 Apr, 2012 23:31
• Quote from: 410 on 26 Apr, 2012 21:08

  The adjustment at the front of the pump is not related to fueling.  It only affects timing under load.  Which might seem strange that it moves the shaft that supports the governor.
  
• #281 by ORCoaster on 27 Apr, 2012 00:47
• 410  Can you elaborate on how turning the shaft in or out changes the timing under load?  I thought it controlled the top RPM as it allows the governor to extend to the point where it pushes back on the fueling collar mechanism.  Or do I have that wrong? 
  
  Can I adjust the hex head of that bolt to make timing changes come earlier or later than I would normally expect them.  Like twisting the IP does? 
  
  Very interesting if that is the case.  So please explain this function for us if you will?
  
  thanks.
• #282 by libbydiesel on 27 Apr, 2012 02:03
• The shaft is hollow and leads to the timing piston.  The little piece that fits over the governor shaft (the part that rides against the control collar and indexes with the four flyweights) has a little bleed hole that is covered/uncovered depending on the position of that piece.  Because the position of that piece is dependent on accelerator position/load, it allows load dependent timing advance.  The position of the shaft determines when the bleed hole is covered/uncovered. 
• #283 by carrizog60 on 27 Apr, 2012 03:24
• its all about pressure.
  open hole=less pressure=less advance.
  
  or do i see it wrong?
• #284 by ORCoaster on 27 Apr, 2012 13:03
• Libby, If I have an early 82 or late 81 IP does it have that hole?  I really don't remember it when I took my pump apart about a year or more ago. 
  
  Being that it is just under the cover I suppose I could get to it with less trouble than more but won't do that if there isn't one in the first place.