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frankenmotor info... 1.6 / 1.9 questions
by
BellCityDubber
on 20 Apr, 2010 12:38
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#1
by
rabbitman
on 20 Apr, 2010 14:10
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Is putting a 1.9hyd TD head on a 1.6hyd TD bottom end just bolt on (I've always presumed so by the reading)
Yup I'm perdy sure it is.
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#2
by
truckinwagen
on 20 Apr, 2010 14:13
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should be a bolt on, cant say much as to the smoke, etc. as I have never done it.
but I would love to now that I have a hydro lifter motor!
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#3
by
Smokey Eddy
on 20 Apr, 2010 15:59
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yeah i did it just fine.
drilling the extra holes is easy easy.
the only thing is you have to run it super advanced so it will start easy. makes for a rattly engine but its totally fine.
i love my 1.9/1.6
massive torque increase
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#4
by
Smokey Eddy
on 20 Apr, 2010 16:01
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it is literally a bolt on replacement. i dont know what else to say.
you deal with the slightly lower compression by advancing the timing. smokes white for about a minute in the dead of winter.
if you dont have any glow plug problems its not an issue in the slightest.
im slightly surprised you didn't find
my thread
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#5
by
BellCityDubber
on 21 Apr, 2010 00:54
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Actually.... I did find your thread.... but it wasn't until the next day I thought about saving and displaying my findings.
But as for the headgasket
Hydraulic Engines:
- 1 notch - 0.66-0.86mm
- 2 notch - 0.87-0.90mm
- 3 notch - 0.91-1.02mm
Do I use the 3 notch?
which ARP bolts (head studs?) do I use?
thanks guys!
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#6
by
truckinwagen
on 21 Apr, 2010 00:56
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what is your piston protrusion?
as for the studs, you can go for the ford cosworth ones, or the new TDI specific studs available from ARP.
both part numbers and vendors should be available in the FAQ section.
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#7
by
saurkraut
on 22 Apr, 2010 13:06
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#8
by
BellCityDubber
on 22 Apr, 2010 16:19
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what is your piston protrusion?
as for the studs, you can go for the ford cosworth ones, or the new TDI specific studs available from ARP.
both part numbers and vendors should be available in the FAQ section.
I'm unsure of my piston protrusion. I intend on buying all 3 headgaskets.... measuring... using the one I need and returning the ones I dont need..
I'll check the FAQ for the studs that I need! Thanks!
Here's mine:
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=15780.0
Great mod. Don't hesitate.
I had also found yours as well saurkraut, but I noticed yours is a 1.9td hyd head on a 1.6 mechanical block.... I'm doing hyd->hyd... fortunately enough for me
But I did some searching.... and I found the ARP part numbers
251-4701
so I need those....
and the part numbers for the different notch head gaskets....
then comes the tricky part.....
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#9
by
NintendoKD
on 22 Apr, 2010 23:52
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My build is a little different, I have a situation similar to saurkrauts, I have a Hydro head and a mech block "no oil return" I plan on using a mech cam and mech lifters. The modification is a little confusing so I'll keep it brief. It is SUGGESTED that you drill the steam holes in the block "I used a AAZ H/G as a template" there is also an overlapping hole in the mech block that needs a solution, but that is only if you are using a mech block. I have decided to use the aaz "metal" H/G so there is some consideration when aligning everything. I will use the mech lifters and cam in my aaz head, so that being said refer to saurkrauts post for part no's etc. I have not personally finished this engine. It is still in the works, with a lot of work to come still. Dry sump, block girdle, custom 17/22 hybrid vnt, pd150 intake, ceramic coated everything, custom headers, lightweight flywheel/crank, arp studs for mains and oil pump, larger oil pump, chromoly h-beam rods, custom ceramic prechambers, and a giles pump, with some personal boost pin mods. I am going for the very fastest frankenmotor that I can, to see just what these engines can really do. Your build doesn't sound near as complicated, but I will be following your build to learn what I can.
Thanks, and Good Luck,
Kevin
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#10
by
BellCityDubber
on 13 May, 2010 12:26
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Well... I've got my 1.9TD head....
although it's got cracks between the valves, I figure it should be okay. I've seen lots of 1.6 NA's and TD's with those cracks.... so I'll have to have the head pressure tested, and while it's in the machine shop... have the mating surface checked, and a port and polish...
still have to get the head bolts, the head gasket and such... but now that I got the head.. the hard part is out of the way.
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#11
by
NintendoKD
on 13 May, 2010 23:38
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don't waste good money on a polish won't do you much good
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#12
by
burn_your_money
on 14 May, 2010 09:57
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I've never seen a 1.9/1.6 engine in real life so I may not know what I am talking about.
If you do have to advance the static timing in order to facilitate cold starts what you could do is add some shims to the advance spring in the pump to shift the timing curve closer to stock. You would have to listen to your engine at different RPMs (under load) to see if it is running to much advance or not.
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#13
by
RadoTD
on 14 May, 2010 10:08
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What are your plans for the engine? If you're not boosting like crazy, it's probably a good idea to run a 1 notch head gasket regardless of piston protrusion. That'll keep your compression as high as possible
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#14
by
arb
on 14 May, 2010 11:42
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What are your plans for the engine? If you're not boosting like crazy, it's probably a good idea to run a 1 notch head gasket regardless of piston protrusion. That'll keep your compression as high as possible
I would still measure your protrusion - if you need a 3 notch, I would not jump to a 1 notch - if you get carbon build up after a while, it might cause problems... just my thoughts.