turbo removal question...

[irdiver]

hi all i have one of the strange '91 eco's; the bearings in the turbo have decided to give it up after the oil return line clogged, so the question becomes what is the best way to pull the turbo off?  i dont want to pull the engine, so should i try to get the exhaust manifold off or is there a way to get to the four mount bolts on the bottom of the turbo?  i know i cant get to two of them but how do you get to the others?  thanks for the hints!

[X@V]

When I remove a turbo on a VW diesel engine, I always remove the manifold. Removing the 3 or 4 12-point bolts is near from impossible with the engine in the car.

When I tried to remove the 4 12-point bolts from my K14, 2 of them broke. I had to remove the manifold to repair it ans I lost 3-4 hours instead of a 1h job.

[fspGTD]

I use a fresh 1/2"-drive 12mm socket mounted on a universal-joint flex joint, and then a couple of long extensions terminating under the engine.  With that setup you can swing a long breaker bar around underneath the car to get adequate torque to break the bolts free when loosening the bolts, or a long handled torque wrench when tightening them to specs.

Trickiest part about removing them is watching that the socket doesn't slip off the bolt head when applying torque.  Sometimes you can re-orient the handle of the breaker / ratchet to pull the handle in a different direction, which can help keep the socket from slipping.  Another thing that can help sometimes to keep it from slipping is to re-orient the universal joint so it's flexed in a different orientation - if you have problems with the socket wanting to slip off the bolt head, try rotating the u-joint by about 1/6 or 1/4 of a turn and see if that helps.

When going back on, use copper-based anti-seize, as the moly stuff can't take the heat and will crumble from the intense heat from the turbine housing.  The copper-based stuff can take the heat and stay greasy - making removal the next time a whole lot easier.

There are new style of sockets available that have an integrated u-joint... I think one of those would be ideal.  But it's got to be a 12-point not a 6-point (I just looked up on sears website and all I could find there are 6-point.)

If you only need to service your turbo, I don't see any reason to remove either of your manifolds.  If you do remove a manifold, reinstall with new locknuts on exhaust manifolds, and with new gaskets on intake or exhaust manfolds.

Hope this helps - good luck!

[935racer]

What we use at the shop here is a snap on flex head 3/8 ratchet, any mechanic or DIYer should not be without one, they are incredibly strong and they are absolutely perfect for removing turbos because the ratchet head gives you a lower profile than adding a swivel joint to the ratchet head and there is less unwanted side swivel.. I have one in 1/4 drive as well. I am sure you could find it on their website I know the part # is FH747. Probably my favorite tools, they are so convienent for so many jobs.

[dieselweasel]

I would think one of these would work nicely with a long extension and 1/2" gun:

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=2806&group_ID=325&store=canada&dir=catalog

Not cheap though.

[935racer]

Is anything cheap from snap on :x  They are nice tools though just really overpriced, however those 2 ratchets I bought are probably the best tools I have ever bought for daily use, they make so many jobs so much easier, I think they are the only snap on tools I have though.

[VWRacer]

When going back on, use copper-based anti-seize, as the moly stuff can't take the heat and will crumble from the intense heat from the turbine housing.  The copper-based stuff can take the heat and stay greasy - making removal the next time a whole lot easier.

Which brand do you use, Jake? I have had good luck in high temp situations with "Copperslip", but haven't used it on a turbo. Always looking for good ideas...

[fspGTD]

The type of grey, moly-based anti-seize that I found crusted up when I used it on the turbo mounting bolts (but nowhere else) was Permatex.  I use it in other places though, just not on parts exposed to pre-turbine exhaust heat or threading into the turbine housing.  I believe permatex has a copper-based anti-seize though that ought to work find though.  The type of copper-based anti-seize I use on exhaust manifold nuts and anything threading into the turbine housing is Caterpillar brand (bought through Caterpillar parts department.)

[DVST8R]

The type of grey, moly-based anti-seize that I found crusted up when I used it on the turbo mounting bolts (but nowhere else) was Permatex.  I use it in other places though, just not on parts exposed to pre-turbine exhaust heat or threading into the turbine housing.  I believe permatex has a copper-based anti-seize though that ought to work find though.  The type of copper-based anti-seize I use on exhaust manifold nuts and anything threading into the turbine housing is Caterpillar brand (bought through Caterpillar parts department.)

For all of us up here in Canada, http://www.Finning.ca is were you would find CAT stuff.  :wink:

[VWRacer]

Sweet...thanks Jake!  

[dubCanuck1]

I've found that Snap-On was more like Snap-Off. I've broken quite a few of them. Surpisingly, Crappy Tire's stuff and Sears' tools have never broken on me.

[Kudagra]

Screw that Snap-off junk.

I use an extension, my 2112 IR 3/8 impact and MATCO 12MM IMPACT UNIVERSAL 12PT.

The socket dosent have a pin and a snap ring to fly off and kill you like the Crap-On does. You dont have to take out a loan to buy it either. Like about $30. But trust me...worth every penny. The nice thing about the 3/8 is its alot smaller so it fits with no problem.

My 3/8 impact and universal impact sockets are the most used tools in my box.

[therabbittree]

Muumn,... I don't know how you would remove a vw 1.6L TD turbo from a car with out taking the turbo off the exhaust manifold first... I just use a short 12mm 3/8 drive socket and racket and get up in there and do it a flex head racket short and stubby is nice to use for intall but to untorque em i use a medium or long 3/8s racket..a homemade down pipe is easier to clear..but if you unbolt the stock cast down pipe and move it out of the  way the short 12mm socket should work fine. If you tried to take off the exhaust manifold and turbo together..it would be a real tight fit getting it out from under the car or out the top even if you had your rain gutter removed..plus if you reinstalled it together it would be a real pain, to place the nuts and washers back on behind the turbo and under the intake... heck can you even unbolt those bolts to remove the exhaust manifold while it is on the manifold?... ..mummn only way I've done it is -turbo off first and then exhaust manifold.
later,
Deo
\x/ hillfolk!