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Lots of white smoke, rough idle
by
spdrace11
on 16 Apr, 2010 18:13
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Well i have a 1991 VW jetta coupe. It's a 1.6 N/A and i recently changed a timing belt and water pump. Well i had to take the IP out to change the water pump so i did have to time the IP. Well i tuned it to the specs and made sure the timing marks were all on. Now grayish smoke poors out of the exaust and it has a rough idle.
Now I was a tooth off when i did the timing belt initially. I aligned the squarish block mark on the flywheel not the diamond mark initially. I did turn the motor over and there was no blockage. I tried starting it and it ran for about a sec then it stalled immediately. I looked in the Bentley and realized that i used the wrong mark. I retimed it and it now runs but like i said it smokes and idles rough. So anyone have any suggestions??? Huh
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#1
by
James8485
on 16 Apr, 2010 18:47
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SOUNDS LIKE MINE
the 1.6TD ran fine then i had t take the pump out and the guy that did it said it was all timed ok but now it pours out smoke at idle and wont stay runnign unles i have my fooot on gas untill its warm
if ya figure it out email me
[email protected]
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#2
by
vanbcguy
on 16 Apr, 2010 18:52
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Try advancing it a tad?
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#3
by
spdrace11
on 16 Apr, 2010 23:03
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Try advancing it a tad?
To about what , 1mm?? What about air in the system as well??
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#4
by
Smokey Eddy
on 16 Apr, 2010 23:32
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for those of you who really care you can time by numbers. I personally prefer to time by conditions and outcomes. Advance it the smallest amount possible with the car running (just push the pump towards the head very gently with something like a rubber mallet) until it runs okay cold with the cold start lever pulled out. thats what i do with the changing seasons. I have to advance my engine considerably in the cold with my reduced compression.
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#5
by
Smokey Eddy
on 16 Apr, 2010 23:33
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air in the system is a no no. you need to fix that leak. new lines, new T-bolt style hose clamps. if you have slack you can try just cutting the ends half and inch.
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#6
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 17 Apr, 2010 08:42
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for those of you who really care you can time by numbers. I personally prefer to time by conditions and outcomes. Advance it the smallest amount possible with the car running (just push the pump towards the head very gently with something like a rubber mallet) until it runs okay cold with the cold start lever pulled out. thats what i do with the changing seasons. I have to advance my engine considerably in the cold with my reduced compression.
be sure to loosen the injection lines when you move the pump. set it to where you want, then loosen the lines on the pump to relieve tension. cause it will eventually crack a line.
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#7
by
theman53
on 17 Apr, 2010 12:27
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for those of you who really care you can time by numbers. I personally prefer to time by conditions and outcomes. Advance it the smallest amount possible with the car running (just push the pump towards the head very gently with something like a rubber mallet) until it runs okay cold with the cold start lever pulled out. thats what i do with the changing seasons. I have to advance my engine considerably in the cold with my reduced compression.
be sure to loosen the injection lines when you move the pump. set it to where you want, then loosen the lines on the pump to relieve tension. cause it will eventually crack a line.
not the lines to the delivery valves or the injectors. Rabbit on Roids is saying to do the little clamps that hold the lines together. I know what he meant, but to someone who didn't already know it may not be as clear.
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#8
by
8v-of-fury
on 17 Apr, 2010 12:33
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I think it is also suggested to actually loosen them at the pump and at the injectors upon moving the pump Lucas.
you are bending them in the middle, but holding them stationary at each end by not loosening them.. and surely asking for a crack.
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#9
by
theman53
on 17 Apr, 2010 12:35
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yeah you would do that after the pump is adjusted, right? That is how I have done it. Not while it was running, after I get everything where I want it then I loosen the lines at the pump and injectors, then tighten them and then tighten the line clamps. Let me know if I am doing it wrong.
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#10
by
spdrace11
on 17 Apr, 2010 14:55
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Well problem solved. I readjusted the IP to 1.00mm then drove the car for about 10-15min. At first it spuddered and smoked really bad. You could see the trail down the street. Then about 10min later it just cleared up, idled nicely and had more power. So perhaps there was some air in the system and it took time to clear out idk, but now its fine.
I might turn the pump back to 85mm to get the best economy i can though, but as of know it runs great!!
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#11
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 17 Apr, 2010 15:16
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if you retard it back to .85, you will probably get WORSE economy than where its set right now.
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#12
by
8v-of-fury
on 17 Apr, 2010 16:39
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yes. 0.85mm will yield worse economy for sure.
More advanced to a degree is always good, however there is more NOX.. but who really cares about that anymore. lol
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#13
by
spdrace11
on 05 Jun, 2010 10:24
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yes. 0.85mm will yield worse economy for sure.
More advanced to a degree is always good, however there is more NOX.. but who really cares about that anymore. lol
I thought the closer to .83 as oppose to 1 with yield better fuel eco??
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#14
by
8v-of-fury
on 06 Jun, 2010 07:55
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Its better for Emissions, with little to no care for performance. The factory was after emissions numbers with these cars. However they may have been trying to bump it up to 53hp with the timing change
