Ebay timing tools

[ToddA1]

That's the same seller I got my kit from.  I bought the identical kit.  In those auctions, he doesn't mention shipping to the US, and when I sent him a question, before I bought mine, he never replied.

How is that bolt used on the cam sprocket...  like a puller? 

-Todd

[Baron VonZeppelin]

MaxFax and I gave him so much publicity and props over on Vortex in the past - he probably should have sent us both a set for free. lol

I tried to get a set through one of his foreign auctions too, a couple years ago, with same result you got. No response.

He only has one set listed for North America sale right now.
Unless it just sold.
But occasionally he will list a set North America sale at full auction, starting at $20. Like maybe 3-4 times within a year.

Even if one were to pay the buy it now price plus shipping - still not much more than the Prothe kit - but 10 times the quality - and Metric scale gauge to boot.

The timing cover backing plate has a hole at the top - right behind the top of the cam sprocket. After loosening cam sprocket bolt a little - Put a bolt or punch through that hole and strike bolt/punch with a hammer. Works on all but the most stubborn.

The most stubborn "might" require the cam sprocket to be rotated and hit in 3-4 varying locations.

[ToddA1]

OK, so I finally got around to using the dial indicator to time the IP.  Very easy to do, as I printed out Vince's tutorial and took it to the car.  Set my 82 IDI to 0.97mm.

Did anyone else who bought this kit have to preload the gauge to about 8.5mm?  If I preloaded any less, the set screw that held the gauge firmly into the adapter didn't allow smooth operation for the needle...  it was binding.  It seemed excessive, but I couldn't get it to work any other way.  I threaded the adapter into the IP until it bottomed out.  If the adapter was made a little bit longer, it wouldn't have been an issue and I didn't want to shorten the extension for the gauge.

It worked fine, just a little rant/review.

-Todd

[Baron VonZeppelin]

Having to "preload" (using some of the stem travel) is no complication so long as you still have enough stem travel left to more than cover the amount of measure you are working with.

Like you discovered, after getting it installed appropriately, there is plenty of extra travel left to work with after gauge is zero'd out.

I've read of some guys shortening their extension rods, with whatever kit they have bought. But i'm waiting until the day comes that it is a must-do.

So far, have worked with 3 styles of VW pumps - early 1.6, 89-92 1.6 (pain in butt) and 1.6 TD. All have taken different length of preload. But nothing has required shortening the extension - yet.

[ToddA1]

Vince's "how to" listed 2.0mm, so that's what I was expecting.  The gauge will go to about 11.5mm although it lists 10.0mm max. 

The kit seemed pretty nice, so (in my mind) adding about 5mm to the adapter would be the logical thing to do. I guess I'm being too critical. 

-Todd

[Baron VonZeppelin]

...threaded the adapter into the IP until it bottomed out.  If the adapter was made a little bit longer, it wouldn't have been an issue and I didn't want to shorten the extension for the gauge.

It worked fine, just a little rant/review.

-Todd

Put a washer on the adapter before threading it into the back of Inj Pump. That will get you more, without shortening the extension.
Works dandy fine.

I just did the timing spec check on another 89 - and they are a BIchT (89-92 NA) compared to all others because of the Inj Line arrangement.
Had forgotten to mention the washer trick previously from lack of memory space on my soft drive noodle.

I have to shim the adapter with a washer on these, so that the set screw is accessible beyond the lines, and can be snugged properly.
Works dandy fine.

You could use 1-2-3 washers if needed, probably.

[ToddA1]

That's too simple.... didn't even cross my mind. 

LMK if you're having this issue if you're using the same kit.  The adapter has a set screw that locks the dial indicator in.  What I've noticed, is when I tighten the set screw, it makes the plunger bind in the bore, and I'm lucky to get any needle movement.  I've come to finger tightening, but I may still be too tight.... the set screw is barely holding on.  This causes the indicator to move and I end up starting over.  This was the main reason I started the "Timing IP by ear" thread..

I noticed Vince's adapter is a compression style that grips 360*.  I'm sure this is a better design, that doesn't cause the binding.

-Todd

[Baron VonZeppelin]

I go finger tight - then just a smidge of a turn with allen wrench.
Then i check for ease of stem movement, and that dial stays stationary. Plunging the stem in and out briskly a few times to test.

Usually only have a tiny bit of resistance - but dial stays in place.

Like you say though, crank the set screw too much and the stem gets real tight. Leave it too loose and the dial can move.

Vincent has top-dog set-up that would cost way more to buy new than what we paid. Although he probably got his for free. 

A second set screw 180* degrees from the existing one might be something that would help if its being a problem.   

[Vincent Waldon]

Vincent has top-dog set-up that would cost way more to buy new than what we paid. Although he probably got his for free. 

What you talkin' bout Willis??!!  If you look closely you should be able to see that my dial indicator is a cheap harbour freight model rudely ground down to jam in the end of the adapter.  The pin and cam lock are equally handmade. 

But hey... they work!!

[Baron VonZeppelin]

whaaaaaaaat ?

I's figured you had official VW tools with VW stamped part numbers and VW carrying cases. gosh

Is your adapter at least Genuine VW ?

Its been a couple/few years since i used to frequent your timing how-to pages. But they were tremedously appreciated. I'd be screwing stuff up all over NC by now if it weren't for those 101 tutorials.

Now i'msa frofessional