Head gasket, studs, timing, etc.

[speedy]

My engine and transaxle are on the floor of the garage, waiting for me to change the head gasket.
The engine is a mechanical 1.6TD out of an '85 Quantum, unknown history.  It now lives in a 1973 Transporter.  Has K24 turbo, 2.25" mandrel-bent exhaust, Saab intercooler.  The goal is a modest 100hp and top-tier reliability.

I've spent probably 4-5 hours on this site reading up on head gaskets, studs and tools, learned a lot but I'm still not 100% sure I am making the right choices for this job.  So, I'm going to post here first in the hopes that if I'm about to make a huge mistake, one of you knowledgeable types (Andrew, Vincent, et. al) will save me from myself.  Here's what I have planned:

ARP studs (251-4701) from Summit Racing.  About $145 with shipping (ouch).  Main reason I'm going with these is because I can't re-torque the head bolts without dropping the engine and I don't want to do that two more times after I put it back in.  It is my understanding that I DO NOT have to re-torque the ARP studs after the initial install.  One factory sequence to 80lb-ft with ARP lube, 120lb-ft with 30-wt oil and I'm done.  Right?

Head gasket - I will measure the piston protrusion once I have the head off and buy the appropriate gasket.  Going with the stock-style gasket, probably the Elring from Autohausaz:
http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=evn5mbz3iyqzl0jbdpotit45&makeid=800026@VW&modelid=1284780@QUANTUM%20GL%20CUSTOM%20TDI&year=1985&cid=109@Engine%20Overhaul/Rebuild%20Kit&gid=5412@Cylinder%20Head%20Gasket
It is my understanding that there is no readily-available head gasket upgrade for the mechanical 1.6 engine like there is for the hydraulic engine.  I don't think my power goals justify an upgrade but again I would like to hear from those with differing opinions.

Measured my IP timing before disassembly.  I have the correct dial indicator but do not have the stock flywheel/bellhousing so I have no TDC mark to look at.  I used a flat file in the notch at the rear of the cam to determine TDC.  There was some slop so I turned it one way till it wouldn't go any more, then turned it the other way, then split the difference.  Wouldn't you know it, the dial indicator said .0395" in the middle which I think is just about perfect.  I am going to use a dremel with a cutoff wheel to make a TDC mark on the crank pulley so that it will be possible to find TDC with the engine in the van in the future.  I know it's not as accurate as the flywheel mark but I think it will be good enough.  I realize that if my cam timing is off, my TDC mark will be off also.  I'm just going to hope that the cam timing is accurate.  The timing belt is new and the engine ran great when I pulled it (except for the pressurized coolant system!).

I will stay away from Autozone and Pep Boys triple-square tools since the results seem to be mixed on those.  I am going to stop by Napa tomorrow and pick up a 10mm Lisle triple-square tool so I can get the old head bolts out.  Then remove the head, clean, check for straightness, etc.

Please let me know if I am making any errors here - Thanks!

-David

p.s. I re-used the factory torque-to-yield head bolts in my 87 Mustang more than once and never had a problem.  I guess I won't chance it on this engine though.

[truckinwagen]

I got my studs from headbolts.com they were much cheaper than summit, and they ship USPS so shipping is better too.

as for the TDC mark, since you will be pulling the head make that mark on the pulley after the head is off and you can guarantee exact TDC with a dial indicator.

[speedy]

I checked headbolts.com but they were a few dollars more than Summit. 

How can I verify exact TDC with the head off?  If I'm not mistaken there will be many degrees of rotation where the piston does not move at the top of it's travel.  I'm also not sure how to set up the dial indicator to measure piston travel.

Thanks,

-David

[truckinwagen]

technically there will me no point where the piston stops moving up and down, just a point where it is hard to see with your eye.

use your dial indicator in a stand to hold it to the block deck, then you will be able to see the exact point where the piston stops going up and starts going back down.

[Vincent Waldon]

If I'm not mistaken there will be many degrees of rotation where the piston does not move at the top of it's travel.

Yer absolutely correct... which means we have to be a bit more clever when using a dial indicator to find TDC.

The trick is:  don't find TDC, find a spot before and after TDC.

With your dial indicator set on a magnetic clamp, rotate the engine toward TDC and stop when you get a few mm *before* TDC.  Make a mark on the flywheel.  Rotate the engine thru TDC and stop at the same reading you had before, making another mark.  TDC is now exactly between those two marks.

[745 turbogreasel]

Bolt a bar or stopper  across #1 piston.
rotate till piston hits stop.
mark.
rotate all the way back around till piston hist stop.
mark.

halfway between marks is true TDC, make a different mark.

You might even want to drill a hole in the bottom of the tranny so you can check it from below.
edit: Vincent is faster than me

[Vincent Waldon]

edit: Vincent is faster than me

Perhaps, but your idea is cheaper... no need for a dial indicator or clamp.

[burn_your_money]

I thought the ARP studs needed periodic retorquing?

I'm pretty sure the head bolts use a 12mm triple square.

The cam pulley does not have a key in it. It is infinitely adjustable so using it as a TDC reference is pointless.

[speedy]

I thought the ARP studs needed periodic retorquing?

Great - just when I thought it was settled...     So what led you to believe that they needed retorquing?

The cam pulley does not have a key in it. It is infinitely adjustable so using it as a TDC reference is pointless.

I don't think anyone mentioned using the cam pulley as a TDC reference.

Thanks,

-David

[speedy]

Bolt a bar or stopper  across #1 piston.
rotate till piston hits stop.
mark.
rotate all the way back around till piston hist stop.
mark.

halfway between marks is true TDC, make a different mark.

I'm going to try this method first - should be dead simple, just a piece of angle with two holes in it.  Thanks for posting,

-David

[burn_your_money]

I don't think anyone mentioned using the cam pulley as a TDC reference.

I have the correct dial indicator but do not have the stock flywheel/bellhousing so I have no TDC mark to look at.  I used a flat file in the notch at the rear of the cam to determine TDC. 

Maybe I'm not visualizing this correctly.

Great - just when I thought it was settled...     So what led you to believe that they needed retorquing?

Just something I thought I read. I've never used them so I could be way out in left field. If no one else says anything you can probably safely assume that...

[theman53]

I would think that the head studs would only need retorque if they lost it on initial start up. When they get up to temp the material could be destressed and loosen a tad. There rod bolts are to be torqued and loosened 3 times for this reason and to make sure the cap is fully seated too. I torqued my head on with an old HG and left it sit for a month, loosened it, tightened them again...but I have time to wait to get it in there.

For most purposes I would say just check them after the first heat cycle and forget it, but I am not the expert on these.

[maxfax]

For most purposes I would say just check them after the first heat cycle and forget it, but I am not the expert on these.

X2  If I'm not being lazy I've rechecked them after a 1000 or 6 miles..  Typically if they've been retorqued after the first heat cycle they don't move a bit..

[sdwarf36]

Arp studs do not required a re-torque. I install them daily-their instructions never have said anything. Just use the moly lube that comes with them and torque to spec. The last 2 sets (over the last few months) of "Ford Cosworth" studs I got called for 110 ft lbs -although i know earlier sets said 80 ft lbs. My sets have a newer blend of moly paste (a blue package rather than white)-and they updated the testile strength on the studs-200,000 from 180,000.
 You CAN retorque if it makes you feel better-just only do it one at a time.

[53 willys]

I would retq a fiber gasket... but thats just me.
some do.. some dont....if it's a high boost engine or plans to be I would retq on a fiber gasket for sure!