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VE pump assembly
by
BGA
on 31 Mar, 2010 14:18
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Input shaft bushings on my ve pump (1,6 TD-82) had to be replaced. During assembly I had very good use of this info:
http://issuu.com/publishgold/docs/bosch_ve_pump_head/1?mode=a_pOnly one thing can go wrong for me, plunger orientation versus input shaft. Plunger is driven by a pin in cam plate-no problem, but cam plate can be oriented in two ways versus input shaft (via a "cross"). Does orientation matters? I took a chance - woodruff key in input shaft in same direction as pin in cam plate.
A second question: my four rollers are one piece, but in above mentioned article which seems to be a TDI (newer) pump it is two piece and funny enough in my scrap box I have a pump from 1978 ( ...494 002 ) it has two piece rollers. What is the difference?
I have assembled the pump but will not install it until I have got an answer on my first question.
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#1
by
burn_your_money
on 31 Mar, 2010 19:59
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Install away
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#2
by
Vincent Waldon
on 31 Mar, 2010 20:17
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Install away
Agreed.
In case search ever leads someone here this way some day, here's a picture with some red text that may help:
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#3
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 01 Apr, 2010 09:28
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when i re-did my pump, i had no idea, but better judgment told me that everything should be pointing up. and it worked.
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#4
by
BGA
on 02 Apr, 2010 12:27
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Thanks for info. Vinces drawing was new to me and very informative.
Maybe its Murphys law? - engine is not running well. Assembly was pretty straight forward and i think not much could go wrong.
Camplate and some rollers hade to much pitting due to a rosty period in their earlier life. As I had good looking camplate and rollers from an non turbo engine I put these in. I was aware that cam lift could be lower, but can accept that.
No to the problem. Engine fired but had not fuel enough to run. Installed a electric fuel pump for better deareating- no help. Lifted the top cover off the pump, but linkage to regulator seemed okey. Maybe that due to lower camlift adjustment fuel screw (#88 on Vinces dwg) was needed? I turned it in 2 turns. Now engine started and run nicely at 780 rpm, BUT when I turned the speed lever the speed lowerd! I tried to turn the screw out instead (2 turns from original) but engine did not fire. So back to 2 turns in. Now I have a car running nice at low idle, but i cannot drive it.
Any suggestons where I should try next is very much appreciated.
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#5
by
burn_your_money
on 02 Apr, 2010 13:20
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I would try turning it in more.
Actually, there is a good chance that you have the throttle arm one tooth off. Move it one tooth clockwise (I think) and see what happens
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#6
by
fatmobile
on 02 Apr, 2010 23:24
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maybe even 180 out,
if it slows down when you accelerate.
Pull the springs off the top of the pump and see how it feels to move the accelerator lever without them.
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#7
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 03 Apr, 2010 11:20
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maybe even 180 out,
if it slows down when you accelerate.
Pull the springs off the top of the pump and see how it feels to move the accelerator lever without them.
im betting he got it in (the governor and throttle arm inside the pump) backwards, cause ive done it before, never got the pump together tho, i caught that it was backwards before i put it back together. either that or he is a spline or 2 off. my first pump mod i did worked wonderfully, but i had no throttle after that, so i took the pump off cause i thought i messed it up. needless to say, i moved the throttle arm and then the pump ran fine, and really worked good, used to lay down all sorts of blackness out the tail pipe.
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#8
by
burn_your_money
on 03 Apr, 2010 11:26
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He says in his first post that he installed the cam plate properly.
He could have the pump pulley 180 out though depending on the style of pulley he has.
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#9
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 03 Apr, 2010 11:30
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too bad i wasnt talking about the cam plate. i went back and corrected and explained my post a little better. sorry to confuse you.
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#10
by
burn_your_money
on 03 Apr, 2010 12:03
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Ahh I see.
I don't understand what you mean though.
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#11
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 04 Apr, 2010 09:56
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the governor assy, and the throttle shaft. the part that sticks through the top of the pump, and the throttle arm and springs sit on top of it and make it move. throttle shaft was 180* from where it was supposed to be. making it be throttled at idle, and letting the engine slow down as you give it more throttle. in my mind, it would reverse the throttle. it might be kinda hard to get everything to line up like that, but if you have no idea what your doing, i could see how you could do it wrong.
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#12
by
burn_your_money
on 04 Apr, 2010 11:30
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I don't think the throttle shaft will fit in the top cover if it is 180 out though.
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#13
by
BGA
on 08 Apr, 2010 10:32
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Vince and Tyler you were right. I moved throotle arm two splines clockvise and now car is drivable. How do I knew i should not move it one spline more??
Internal throttle arm cannot be installed 180 degrees wrong - it will hit the wall of the cover.
Now, because my fiddling with the fueling screw, engine does not behave as well as before. Low idle is to low, 680 rpm (was 780), and it has lost power. If I turn it in 1/2 turn it " hangs" on high engine speed and does not like to go back to low idle. I have not adjusted low idle speed screw. Reason is I think if i can find my old low idle speed via the fueling screw, I think I have my good old engine again. Any tip where I can find info on fuelscrew versus engine behavor. I remember I once put the question on a forum and the anwer was: dont touch it and its very sensitive.
I earlier mentioned camplate was replaced with one from a non turbo pump. I have meassured lift on both of them and they are same at aprox. 2,2 mm, so this is not reason for low power.
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#14
by
burn_your_money
on 08 Apr, 2010 15:26
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Try going a third tooth and see what happens. Without a proper test bench you are kind of shooting in the dark. Enough fiddling should get you close enough though.