I have a k03 turbo. there's really no lag on my car
no lag in your boos, I mean lag in your gauge as the snail has to heat up before a real reading can take place.
...and the bigger issue is that the turbo is a variable heat remover. Depending on how hard it's working it will extract varying amounts of heat out of the exhaust stream (which it turns in to compressor energy) so measuring the temp post-turbo will result in a misleading figure that varies in terms of how much it's misleading you.
I can hit 1200 pretty easy if i'm going up a hill....and that's with a 2.25 down pipe and exhaust system...i tend to back out of it at 1100-1200, my new Giles pump definitely is putting out more fuel than stock
Got to get an intercooler soon.
My brothers AAZ regularly hit 1600 pre turbo. He did throw a rod through the block though, not sure if it is related or not. His head did have cracks from the precups to valves. Again, not sure if it was related. The car also ran WVO at one point in it's life.
The authors of Volkswagen's SAE paper on the 1.6TD ran their tests to 820 C, or 1500 F, pre-turbo.
From
http://www.4crawler.com/Diesel/SAE/vwtdsae.shtmlFigure 50 shows lines of constant turbine inlet temperature and Figure 51 turbine exit temperature. The maximum turbine inlet temperature, which is difficult to measure, is approximately 820 C.
My brothers AAZ regularly hit 1600 pre turbo. He did throw a rod through the block though, not sure if it is related or not. His head did have cracks from the precups to valves. Again, not sure if it was related. The car also ran WVO at one point in it's life.
Although it's not yet really melting into puddles, the Inconel alloy of the turbine wheel starts to deform at around 1600
o F, so that temperature
can potentially can give a whole new meaning to the term, "blowing chunks"!
IMHO the rod through the block is usually oil starvation combined with over-revving. Personally observed that on a bone-stock 1.5L n.a. that was over-revved on a downshift!
J.R.
SoCal
My intercooled Eco Diesel reached 804°C during a long pull up a hill in 5th gear, measured with pre-turbo EGT probe & instrument from Auber.
What can I do to lower the EGT?
- will a larger diameter exhaust system help? Still running original cat & exhaust from 1991.
- the original K14 turbo produces relatively hot air at 20 PSI, will a T3 turbo be better?
- washer fluid injection post-IC?
What can I do to lower the EGT?
- will a larger diameter exhaust system help? Still running original cat & exhaust from 1991.
- the original K14 turbo produces relatively hot air at 20 PSI, will a T3 turbo be better?
- washer fluid injection post-IC?
Yes, doing any/all of those will help your EGTs.
750-850 F at highway cruise, will go as high as 1200 or so up a hill without downshifting and low boost.
Non-squirted also, but Swaintech coated.
Stock VW T3, 2.5" turbo-back, non-intercooled and stock boost levels right now.
Fueling is, eh, "a bit more than stock".
Brendan
I dropped about 200 degrees after installing a small intercooler from an old Mercury Capri. 70 mph part load.