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#30
by
Smokey Eddy
on 11 Apr, 2010 20:52
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This of any use?
http://golfgtiguides.co.uk/guides/list-of-relays-for-a-mk2-golf/#more-128
Given that you have trouble with the turn signals AND the high beams/headlights, both of which operate via a steering column switch i'd check this. Especially seeing as the two circuits are not connected in any other way. Fuses 7 and 8 (according to bentley manual) are after the main beam switch but before the low and high beam circuits, respectively. So a faulty switch may also explain why these two fuses keep blowing.
It isnt difficult to get at the switches. Pull the rubber horn cover off the centre of the wheel, disconnect the wires to the horn and undo the big nut holding the steering wheel on. There are 2 or 3 little screws that hold the switches into the column. Undo them, switches slide off and clean the contacts to see if it makes any difference.
Unfortunately this still doesnt explain the random oil pressure light.
Oh man, thank you so much
Seriously thank you.
I was a little hesitant taking the wheel off. I didn't want to screw it up. How do you get it back on straight and anyone know any torque values for the wheel? steering is an important one in my books.
When i pull the flasher relay out the dimly lit dash light goes out.
I also have a very old, small, metal case relay that gets VERY hot... [Edit: Relay #4. Load reduction relay.]
Ill go take the wheel off, take a pic of the relay box, and take pics of the switch and repost shortly.
Edit: I think my oil problem will be fixed with an oil cooler and new main bearings & IM bearing.
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#31
by
rubadubdub
on 12 Apr, 2010 15:39
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How do you get it back on straight and anyone know any torque values for the wheel? steering is an important one in my books.
I used the probably none too scientific but common sense way of putting on back at the same angle as it came off at. I didnt own a torque wrench then so just did it up pretty tight.
The official torque is 40nm or 30ft lb, checked in bentley.
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#32
by
macka
on 12 Apr, 2010 16:33
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Mark the wheel in 2 spots with a grease pencil. Just don't wipe off the marks until after it is reinstalled. I've done this a few times on my jeep.
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#33
by
Smokey Eddy
on 12 Apr, 2010 16:50
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Cheers guys =)
I would "put it back on the same angle it came off at"
but there are like 200 teeth on this bad boy. I'll likely end up just having to pop it off and put it back on again i its out a little. I had already taken it off before marking it. it's not a big deal.
Thanks for the torq spec - really appreciate it.
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#34
by
8v-of-fury
on 12 Apr, 2010 21:02
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coast down the road in first gear with the nut not on the wheel, let the car straighten out.. pop the wheel off and back on in the desired spot.
**Disclaimer** Will not work if your car has excessive Toe or Camber and is affecting wheel alignment as your car will not drive a straight line. Could cause death.
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#35
by
Smokey Eddy
on 12 Apr, 2010 21:50
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risk im willing to take!
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#36
by
Smokey Eddy
on 13 Apr, 2010 15:30
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AVR in abbotsford wants $72 for the turn signal switch. Which is three dollars short of what my intercooler cost me...
seems moderately excessive.
Here is a curiosity.
with the ingition in the off position the hazards work fine, all the lights bright as ever. but no dash light.
with the ignition in the acc or on positions the dash light will blink.
when i pull the switch towards my self the high-beams do not come on.
with my headlight switch in the "off" position, if i pull on the high-beam switch the lights go out and dont come back on.
all the while the high-beam LED in the dash is dimly lit and comes on solid when its supposed to be on.
power is somehow running through my dash and i have noooooooo idea how. I think this is also setting off my oil light/buzzer.
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#37
by
somolovitch3
on 13 Apr, 2010 19:04
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Have you looked at the conditon of the relay(s) conections? Clean, or not so? Have you replaces the X relay with a # 53 (Black # on Grey)(40 Amps) ? The Turn/Hazzard relay might be labeled #21. Ummmm The bad ground might could be INSIDE the bulb socket, not the body ground. Can not remember who describes the grounds the best;Tayler, Vince, or Andrew.
Before you buy anything, you can use some 16 ga wire to replicate all switch connections.
Good luck, keep us all posted!
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#38
by
Smokey Eddy
on 14 Apr, 2010 21:31
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i replaced the load reduction relay.
the light sockets are perfectly clean.
all the contacts on the relays look like new copper.
the problem still persists.
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#39
by
600K
on 18 Apr, 2010 17:26
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If your ignition switch wears out, you will get bizarre electrical issues. Unplug it and jumper connections at the plug to test. I have a broken connection in the flexible circuit board in the dash of my 86 and it has the oil buzzer problem. I have unhooked the tach wire as a temp fix. what year is your vw, so we know what we are dealing with.
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#40
by
Turftech
on 18 Apr, 2010 19:56
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You could try and remove and reconnect the harness from the back of the instrument cluster. I had an 86 Golf that had turn light/warning buzzer/ headlight weirdness, then I changed the instrument cluster and it went away. I often wondered if it was just the connection... I used to be able to "cure" things by bashing down hard on the left side of the dash top. That was the clue re the cluster for me.
Good luck.
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#41
by
Smokey Eddy
on 19 Apr, 2010 00:45
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the year is 90.
i changed the turn signal switch and it didn't fix that problem but it did fix the highbeams.
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#42
by
600K
on 19 Apr, 2010 08:51
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I would pull the instrument cluster and get a look at the connections and wires behind it. Pull the steering wheel, unscrew and unplug the cluster and unhook the speedo cable. Then you can lift it out and get a good look.
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#43
by
Smokey Eddy
on 19 Apr, 2010 08:56
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I've changed the lights in it to LEDs. Maybe i damaged something.
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#44
by
600K
on 19 Apr, 2010 09:09
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Did you change the bulbs in the turn indicators too? I tried LED bulbs front and back in my 94 and the turn indicators wouldn't work right, so I went back to incandescent bulbs.