ARP Bolt torques

[rodpaslow]

I've search and found many torques suggested for arp head bolts, I've read approx. 110 ft.lbs for a max if at the start (going on a new build) there are any leaking issues -coolant or otherwise.

I currently am having new arp rod bolts installed.  As the VW ones were stretch bolts (44 ft.lbs + 1/4 turn); what do the arp rod bolts get torqued to?  I haven't looked to see if suggested values come with the bolts or not.

[theman53]

ARP rod bolts are VW specific for the 8v engines...I think all water cooled...anyway the torque will come in the package and mine were 40 ft/lbs.

You have to lube them torque to 40, loosen, torque to 40, loosen, torque to 40 and leave them alone.

[Smokey Eddy]

i did mine to 100ft/lbs in about 5 sets WITH moly lubricant.
40,60,75,90,100.

took the head off a while later, did it again... no ill results so far.  Totally up to your discretion mate. You can't really F it up unless you go overboard...  i think 110 is the absolute max i'd ever go and that's if i had head gasket problems after WOT long hard pulls
im sure 40 would be fine too.
i like the idea of torquing to spec, loosen, torque, loosen, torque.

[ScottSummerhayes]

I did mine to 120ft/lbs!

i went 20/40/80/100 and 120 all with standard lube

[theman53]

the con rod bolts get the 40 I was talking about.

The Head studs get as much as needed up to around 110 to get it to seal with the MLS head Gasket. Fiber HG should be fine at the ARP level that comes in the box. I think that is around 65 ft/lbs.

[xsp2467]

If you have purchased a package of new head studs, they do come with instructions as well as different torque values depending on what lubricant you decided to use. Molly lube will have a different spec then motor oil. There studs are designed to be checked after being installed, once you run the first few heat cycles I would recheck the torque. Head studs are designed to be solid where as factory stretch bolts do flex a little bit allowing the head gasket to keep its natural shape, over time the head studs will loosen up with wear and it is important that you e torque them every once in a while. However if you are doing a stock rebuild and do not plan to push any more power then 20 horse over stock I would recommend that you use stock bolts. As far as the studs are concerned I do know that they are designed to be torqued to a much higher value then the stock counterpart. 65ft/lb and over would be good start.

[Kantdrivefast]

I did mine to 120ft/lbs!

i went 20/40/80/100 and 120 all with standard lube

same

[Smokey Eddy]

Sorry maaabaaadddd
doh

[rodpaslow]

I just had the ARP rod bolts installed today - the machine shop I use up north here I know fairly well and they did them today for me.  I'm not impressed with ARP as one of the nuts looked like it wasn't threaded properly.  It looked like a nut that the threads had been flattened somehow.  So now I'm not sure what to do?  The old VW nuts will work - maybe I will just use them and do the same as if they were the ARP nuts.  I'd like to get started on putting my td back together....has anyone else had this happen?

[theman53]

I wouldn't use the stock nuts. The ARP have rolled threads and the bottom face of the nut is ground parrallel to the threaded part so you get 100% positive torque all the way around the connecting rod. Plus The stock nuts don't have the same OD as ARP and may have a slight different torque value due to friction. Also the Stock nuts are probably high carbon steel not chromoly alloy and definately not as strong. Looks can be decieving...just ask my wife