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#15
by
SolarSteve
on 24 Feb, 2010 21:53
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2 weekends ago when I did this I just slipped the old belt off with the IP pinned and the cam locked and installed a new new belt by just slipping it on witht the tensioner loose and checking the flywheel marks once it was on TDC. It took me 2 tries to get it just right, but it saved me from having to loosen the cam and she's been running like a top since.
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#16
by
gldgti
on 24 Feb, 2010 23:33
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GAH! I wouldnt want to put much torque through the camshaft anyway - you should do your best to always hold the sprocket. lets say you dont break anything on the cam holding it still when doing up or undoing the bolt, ok - but you may well weaken it by causing small cracks to become large ones (you still cant see them). Cast pices like camshafts are always susceptible to fast fracture and fatigue, you dont even need to be "bending" it in order to do damage.
The cam has a pretty easiy life in the engine normally, downst take a lot of torque to drive it really. But if you start torquing it up, it'll shorten its life for sure.
Just some friendly advice :-)
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#17
by
Naturally Aspirated
on 25 Feb, 2010 05:44
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Well i won't be undoing the cam unless its out of whack or turns out to be the cam seal instead of the intermediate seal.
Either way, thanks for all the info guys.
two days and counting till i find out what is wrong with this thing, sure as hell hope it's not the head gasket!!
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#18
by
Vanagoner
on 26 Feb, 2010 06:34
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This might be worth a look- if the O-ring for the oil filter/sandwich cooler breaks or shifts out of place after an oil change, it can act like that too, loosing oil very fast. I'm talking about the seal between the cooler and the block, not visible in this pic.
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#19
by
Naturally Aspirated
on 26 Feb, 2010 08:45
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ya i looked for that too as i changed the seal on my GF's cabrio last week but its from the back passenger side of the engine so basically the timing belt side.
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#20
by
Naturally Aspirated
on 27 Feb, 2010 15:05
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Alright well it doesnt look good. All the seals are fine and were replaced when the timing belt was last done according to the PO.
Here are some pictures of the evidence.
If you cant make it out in the pics i have coolant and oil running down the side and rear of the engine.
The first two pics are from underneath behind the engine to show where the area is.
Gonna do a compression test tomorrow even though the car drove perfect even as i was losing the oil which boggles the mind a little. Usually the car starts to dive like ass when that happens
Also, any tips on removing those exhaust clamps would be extremely helpful
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#21
by
rabbitman
on 27 Feb, 2010 18:39
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I use a screw driver to pop 'em off, they like to bounce all over so watch yer eyes and stuff
.
For putting 'em on I bent two rods into sharp L shapes and, using both per clamp, stick the short end in the hole and squeeze the rods like pliers to spread 'em.........it's not easy though.
Also pushing the DP one way or the other helps.
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#22
by
somolovitch3
on 28 Feb, 2010 06:36
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The 2 1/2 inch exaust clamp trick works right good!
So you think its the head gasket?
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#23
by
Naturally Aspirated
on 28 Feb, 2010 07:19
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well all the shaft seals are fine and i have oil with a bit of coolant running down the back. My only worry is that the head is warped. So hopefully i can get a hold of a compression tester today and check this all before i dissassemble the head. Whats a good way to check the head for warpage?
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#24
by
theman53
on 28 Feb, 2010 08:38
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straight edge snap on makes them, but a machine shop can cut something down and it works well.
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#25
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 28 Feb, 2010 08:48
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I think it's OK to tighten the cam bolt with the locker in place.
Some people think this can still break the rear out of the cam and probably can if you torque it too hard, I've never had it break on me when torqueing the cam bolt.
If you are real worried; you could just snug it down and see how everything is aligned after spinning the crank a couple times, then find a better way to hold it for the final torque.
Takes alot more to break the bolt loose than it does to torque it down when done.
I wouldn't depend on the cam holder in it's slot to hold the cam while I break the cam bolt loose.
Saw it posted once that the 10mm/13mm open end wrench in the spare tire tool kit,
holds the cam real well,.. I tried it and it does a good job,.. I don't know who to give credit for this idea.
i never break the bolt loose with the cam lock in, but you better believe that every time i torque it back down, the cam lock is in there. it only has to go to 50 something ft lbs anyways.
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#26
by
Naturally Aspirated
on 01 Mar, 2010 18:34
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ok so i'm in the midst of changing the head gasket. i removed all of my pullies at tdc so my pump is at tdc, flywheel and my camshaft is locked. i made supplemental white marks across the pullies onto the back timing cover to line them up properly as well. i also disconnected the injectors so my question is will i need to adjust the pump?
i also need to re-fill the coolant after and i have yet to do that on this car. I have done it three times, lol, on my gf's 2.0l this year which is a PITA. Is it roughly the same procedure? Any tips would be greatly appreciated.
TIA
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#27
by
fatmobile
on 02 Mar, 2010 19:43
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#28
by
Naturally Aspirated
on 03 Mar, 2010 06:03
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would be a good idea as it took me better part of an hour to drain and got it all over the place but i have power steering
Any tips on re-filling it though???
I was able to get the head off and cleaned up both the head and block. Positioned the headgasket with zip ties in the two rear holes until i got a couple bolts loosely tightened.
Then i removed the zip ties and torqued it down 1st round to 35 nm and 2nd round to 60NM. Then the last two 1/4 turn each.
Now i need to put EVERYTHING else back on
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#29
by
SolarSteve
on 03 Mar, 2010 06:48
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When you refil the engine with coolant, pull the top radiator hose from the head first and fill the radiator through the hose. Then reinstall the hose to the head and remove the end on the radiator and fill the engine/head with coolant through the hose. If you are by your self you just have to hold the hose with 1 hand and carefully pour into the hose. You'll probably spill a litle here and thier, but this seems to be the best way to do it.
Heres a hint for aligning the head gasket. Take 4 of the old head bolts and cut off the bottom 4 inches. On the end that you cut, cut a groove onto the bolt so you can install a flat blade screw driver. When you need to install a gasket, install the 4 cut bolts in the head, then install the gasket on to the head, over the studs and then the head. Get 2 or more new bolts installed with just enough torque to hold the head firmly and remove the cut studs with your screw driver. Then use a stick magnet to pull the bolts out of the aluminum head.