its about nitrous again...

[Powered by Spearco]

Yeah, where are you going to put that turbo with out building a custom manifold.
The H1C is a fairly big turbo in comparison to any VW turbos.
I'm tring to fit one in my engine bay with using a custom manifold but it limits the intake manifold design.
.

Its tight sqeeze between the fire wall and intake manifold.
The H1C has different ex. housings to be able to spool it and some, have internal wastegates.
Try searching here for info on Holsets.
http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/FAQ/turbo_faq.htm

[truckinwagen]

yeah, I have been pondering the thought of making a log style manifold, but instead of putting the turbo in the middle, putting it over on one end to clear everything.

I would really like to keep the gasser intake, as it flows so much better than the TD one.

oh well, if some parts sell I will have the $$ to get the turbo and see...

[8v-of-fury]

what about tipping the motor forward some, so it will still fit behind it? dunno if its possible.. just throwin it out there. This thing is gonna rip

[Rabbit on Roids]

what about tipping the motor forward some, so it will still fit behind it? dunno if its possible.. just throwin it out there. This thing is gonna rip

this is what im gonna do. i took an audi K24 and mounted it on a stock exhaust mani. had to add a couple studs to it tho, cause only 2 bolt holes line up. it comes aweful close to the firewall. i was going to put spacers under the rear engine mounts to raise the back, and attempt to build some sort of a bracket to drop the front of the engine down a bit. but thats going to be done eventually, i still have a supercharged 16 valve ABA 2.0 to build at the moment.

[truckinwagen]

the problem I have with tilting the motor forward is that I already have clearance problems with the front crossmember.

I might be able to clearance the crossmember some and drop the front of the motor though...

-Owen

[8v-of-fury]

I think as long as you were to reinforce the front cross member.. notching could be done successfully.. I mean the front mount doesn't really hold any of the engines weight, and the torque is applied to the rear mount anyway (i think so anyway)..

So making a new front mount 3-4" lower should bring the motor forwards considerably.. might have to redo all the mounts though.. and not to sure how this will work out for you. lol

[truckinwagen]

the MK2 only has three mounts, two in the back, and one in the front.

so the front mount holds allot of weight at rest, and all the torque of acceleration.

what is interfering, however, is the upper part of the crossmember that the front tin attaches to, not the lower part that the mount attaches to, so I think I can notch it without loosing any structural integrity.

I would only be able to lower the front a couple inches at best before I would have to notch the structural member too.

might be worth making a custom tube crossmember to lower the front even more, it would be super cool to be able to use a cast manifold available for $100.

-Owen

[8v-of-fury]

sorry man, i was for some reason thinking you were talking bout an mk1. My bad.

[truckinwagen]

thats cool.

I really like the mk1 style of engine mounting where if one mount has a catastrophic failure the motor will flop a bit, but stay in the car.

the MK2(which breaks front mounts ALOT) will drop the motor right on the ground when one fails

[Rabbit on Roids]

thats cool.

I really like the mk1 style of engine mounting where if one mount has a catastrophic failure the motor will flop a bit, but stay in the car.

the MK2(which breaks front mounts ALOT) will drop the motor right on the ground when one fails

flop around a bit? i can see you have not severely messed up your mounts. my injection pump was basically facing directly up. turbo was almost lower than the oil pan, and the intake was wedged against the firewall. idk how i didnt separate my axles when i did that. IT DID stay in the engine bay tho, but just barely. and shifting was kinda weird, the gears were not where they were supposed to be, and R, 1, 3, and 5 didnt work at all.

[truckinwagen]

oh, I have broken my fair share of MK1 mounts, I broke the front one clean off 50 mile from home, and I can sincerely say that it does take substantial load as my motor was banging the hood quite a bit.

I also broke the transmission mount off once(that was a harrowing drive back home) the tranny scraped the ground a bit on bumps, but it stayed in place.

a buddy of mine broke his front mount in his MK2, and the motor fell out. pan on the ground.
when I broke my mk2 front mount off, the only thing keeping the motor off the ground was the larger than stock oil filter got caught on the front crossmember(and got mangled beyond recognition)

-Owen

[truckinwagen]

another turbo I have been looking at is a garret T04B, it has a similar map to the holset(not good for as high a pressure ratio, but I was not planning on running huge boost out of it anyway) but has a physically smaller compressor housing, which might make it easier to fit behind the head.

-Owen

[truckinwagen]

well, I cant find a manifold with the T4 flange, so the T04B is out.

anyone know what the real difference between the 4BTA and 6BTA H1C turbos really is?

the compressor housing on the 4BTA is smaller, but the impeller is the same(or darn close to it)
I might get the 4BTA one as it would be easier to squeeze in there.

-Owen

[truckinwagen]

the only difference I can find between the two H1C turbos is the physical dimensions of the housings, it seems that the actual compressor wheel is the same.

so I think I will go ahead and grab the 4BTA one and see how it works.
sizing turbos for this thing is a little subjective anyway.

-Owen

[truckinwagen]

well, I just found a used nitrous kit with a 10LB bottle on the 'tex for $130 shipped.



I am feeling the pangs again, I want it!