back after a long abscence - IDI Engine - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.

• back after a long abscence by thedeezel on 15 Feb, 2010 14:07
• I am back into the world of VW IDI diesels after a long hiatus, and I have a few questions to run by you.
  
  Here is what I am working on.  I have an 81 2dr Rabbit that is a former gasser, I am planning on installing a 1.6td from an 84 Quantum wagon into it this week. I have the full wiring harness from a diesel to install, so other than pimping the glows there should be no wiring issues.
  
  My question is this, in order to install the Quantum engine, I am aware I need to change the intake and exhaust manifold, as well as the oil pan. Is there anything else I will need to change, like the mounting bracket for the IP?
  
  I believe I have everything on hand to do the swap, just want to get it right the first time.
  
  I also have a t3 turbo I could use instead of the stock off of the Quantum, I am not sure which one the stocker is even, although it appears to have no shaft play, as the Quantum was very well maintained, but succombed to severe rust issues.
  
  Would you use the t3 or the stock turbo, shoudl I intercool it?
  
  I will be adding a pyrometer right off the bat.
  
  Any advice is greatly appreciated.
  
  Thanks,
  Kris
• #1 by 745 turbogreasel on 16 Feb, 2010 03:21
• The tube off the bottom of the water pump.
• #2 by thedeezel on 17 Feb, 2010 08:15
• Is the water pump the only thing? I was told by someone else that the IP bracket would have to be changed?
  
  Would you use the T3 or the stock turbo? What would you guys do with the wastegate?
• #3 by burn_your_money on 17 Feb, 2010 08:25
• Since it is going into a mk1 I'm 90% sure the pump bracket will need to be changed
• #4 by fatmobile on 17 Feb, 2010 09:24
• Yep, injection pump/ motor mount will need changed,
   put a new TT heavy duty bushing in it.
   Don't let someone sell you one from a 1.5.
   
   Actually pretty sure all motor mounts will need changed.
   
   Like mentioned; that tube from the waterpump to the heater will need changed.
   Probably easier to find one off another Rabbit, then weld on a port for the oil warmer/cooler or get an air/oil cooler and lines. One from a MK2 won't bolt on because of how it bolts to the front motor mount.
  
  If I were you I'd put a VNT-15 on it. You already need an exhaust manifold and the VNT comes with one built in.
   It also hangs down so you can use a gasser intake (cheap and easy to find), instead of the stock intake which favors the 2 inner cylinders.
   Boost starts way lower than a stock turbo.
   You might be able to sell all the stock stuff to someone doing a samari conversion and come out with enough to upgrade to a VNT. There is one on the vortex for $120, that spews a little oil and might need a rebuild.
   Working with Gpop you can do that for:
  

  Quote

  Hello Craig,
  
  Thank you for your interest. We can rebuild your turbo and we also have
  the new center cartridges available as well. The new cartridges are in
  stock for $425.00 + $18.00 ground shipping. The price for a standard
  rebuild (a rebuild that does not require any hard parts: comp wheel,
  turbine shaft/wheel, or bearing housing) is $350.00 plus $25 return
  shipping. you do not need to send the exhaust housing in for the rebuild,
  but we do normally clean these as part of the rebuild. The first step in
  the rebuild is a full inspection. If any of the hard parts are found to be
  damaged at this point, we would give you a full quote for
  repairing/replacing parts.
  
  Our turnaround time for standard rebuilds right now is +/-12 business
  days. If you would like to ship the turbo to us for this service, please
  enclose your contact information and send it to:
  
  G-Pop Shop
  22349 W War Eagle Rd
  Springdale, AR 72764
  

  
  I haven't tried a T3.
  
   Oil filter mount is different,.. get one from an A2 so you can upgrade to a volvo sandwich plate and oil cooler,.. in the future. The sealing area on a Rabbit filter mount is too narrow.
   All I can think of now.
   
• #5 by thedeezel on 17 Feb, 2010 10:23
• I have the mounts from an 81 4dr Rabbit NA that I can use, no big deal. I also have the water pump from the same car as well as the oil filter mount. I am going to use my t3, but will be making a custom intake to get good flow to all 4 cyl instead of the stock favoring the center 2 cyl. I took a look at the turbo that was on the Quantum and it looks like it might be a t3, i will clean it a little better to find out for sure.
  I had thought about using an air/oil cooler instead of the stock, as the stock sandwich style on my 06 tdi Jetta failed a couple of months ago and it was a total PITA to clean and flush the coolant system.
  I will eventually be intercooling this car too.
  
  I'll take some pics so you guys can see what I am working on, and thanks for the advise.
  
  Fatmobile,  how often do you get down to the Des Moines area? My hometown is just 30 miles east of Mason City, Osage.
  
  
• #6 by fatmobile on 17 Feb, 2010 22:09
•  Great to hear you have some of the parts collected and ready.
   I don't get that far south very often,..
   I do have a friend in Ames that I built a VNT Rabbit for,
   I should visit him soon.
   We should get together sometime.
  
   You probably come just a few miles from my house,.. if you ever travel down hwy 9 to visit the old home town.
  
  VNT:
   you don't have to build the intake,.. buy one for $20
  
  
  
  
  
• #7 by thedeezel on 18 Feb, 2010 05:26
• What do you use to control the VNT? I have read a couple of threads on hear about it, but have never gotten that in depth in the subject. I would love to have the boost down low and not give up the top end boost in order to get it.  I might actually have that intake on hand.
• #8 by fatmobile on 19 Feb, 2010 09:43
• I know, those intakes are common.
   There are even ones with the intake on the other side,.. in case that makes the intercooling plan easier to plumb.
   
   I started a post on here that shows how I control it.
   With my controller I don't get much over 12 psi,.. it's on a daily driver, 1.5.
   But I'm sure I could adjust it much higher,.. or disconnect the boost from the controller and it will boost past 20.
   That could be done with a switch on the dash.
   
  You can't do this easily on the MK2, because the turbo hits the motor mount.
   I built 2 of these this summer and it's hard to predict the future but I doubt that I'll ever put another stock turbo on a Rabbit.
  
   If it doesn't put out enough boost on the high end; I think it would be pretty easy to swap a VNT 17 into it's place.
    I haven't built a turbo Rabbit using the stock turbo,... but my Golf has one.
   The Rabbit is much more fun to drive,.. and it's a 1.5 without the low end torque.
   I don't have enough patience to wait until 2000 RPM for boost.
   
   The 1.6D, VNT I built is the fastest 1.6 diesel I've ever driven,.. still at only 12 psi boost.
   Ask Andrew. He didn't expect that much to happen when he put his foot to the floor,.. and it even had a bad boost leak at that time.
• #9 by rabbitman on 19 Feb, 2010 09:57
• Couldn't you turn the fuel up and get more boost? Rather than close the vanes.
  
  When mine was vnt'd it would do 10-13psi blowing blackness and I wasn't impressed with the power.......