"Visually bent exhaust valves" and a decision to go with the existing guides. Well, I hope your stores have a sale on oil!
Can't wait to hear these justifications...........
Aren't the guides there to guide the valves?? The valve guide oil seals are for stopping the oil getting burnt / stopping increases in crank case oil pressure aren't they??
If you have a K03 there is no need for head studs. You can't (shouldn't) be able to turn the boost up high enough to need them. It's just a wee little guy.
Your head appears to have been welded and rebuilt before. The area between the valves is ground down on stock heads.
Here is a picture. I've only provided the link because it is huge
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v603/burnyourmoney/DSC07745.jpg
Since you aren't doing the TDI crank mod when you get a new pulley make sure that it has ZERO play on the crank nose. Loctite or JBWeld are not a good solution. I also would not put loctite on the bolt.
It does appear that mine might have been repaired looking at that pic doesn't it. Good to know my turbo's not going to develop too much boost to blow the head gasket.
Im going to make sure the crank pulley is a good fit on its mounting face on the crank.
This is a link to the technical data sheet of Loctite 243 I was considering using on the crank bolt:
http://www.loctite.sg/sea/content_data/93815_243EN.pdfThanks again guys.
Shaggy
Why wouldn't one use locktite? Other than it might be hard to remove when the time comes.
Other than it might be hard to remove when the time comes.
I think that's the issue... torqued to the right spec it's already very hard to remove... doesn't really need loctite's help... and in fact if the bolt cracks you're now in a world of pain.
Another data point is that the torque spec given is designed for a new bolt in a dry hole... how much "lubrication" loctite provides and what the new torque spec should be are unknowns.
Regarding the valve guides: I just can't see how literally bending the valve stems will not deform the brass guides and lead to a certain amount of instability in those new valves which help to hasten wear in the valve stem seals. A short cut would be to ream the guides. You may have difficulty slipping new valves through the existing guides. I'd sure see how much wobble you have on the new valves.
These engines are really dependent upon their compression. I'd do all I could to give that head a fighting chance.
Guide replacement only makes sense if you are installing new valves. They are cheap being bronze which means that they are easily drifted out and in. Replace all the valves seeing as you are in there. The valve guide seals will not stop blow by which these engines make lots of.
The 3M product will probably do the trick. It is not used on the fastener. They have a sleeve retainer product that will take up an excessive clearance when fitting a bearing. It is a great fix for an assembly that is not yet junk but is just outside new clearances.
Good to know my turbo's not going to develop too much boost to blow the head gasket.
I actually meant that it is such a small turbo that you should not force it to make more then stock boost. Maybe 15 psi if you feel confident. That turbo will make 20+ but it will blow up very, very quickly.
Good to know my turbo's not going to develop too much boost to blow the head gasket.
I actually meant that it is such a small turbo that you should not force it to make more then stock boost. Maybe 15 psi if you feel confident. That turbo will make 20+ but it will blow up very, very quickly.
3 passes on the drag strip at 25 PSI and the bearings failed, causing catastrophic failure. Not even a mile at full boost, using a stock set up, the only mod was blocking off the BOV valve.