Timing?

[ffgb]

I just put back on my resealed pump with gov-mod.  Put everything back together, start it up, and now it smokes like crazy!  My car will only idle with the cold start valve pull all the way out.  Right when I push in the cold start valve, maybe 1/4 to 1/2 way, my car dies.  The only way to keep it running is with pressing the accelerator, but it smokes so much, I had to turn it off because the neighborhood got smokey.  What can be the problem?  Everything lined up with TDC, lock pin in place, and cam-lock in place.
Thanks!

[Vincent Waldon]

Your timing sounds like it is very retarded... what timing setting have you used?

http://vincewaldon.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=24&Itemid=28

[ffgb]

around 80-83mm

[Vincent Waldon]

Yup, you could certainly stand to advance it a bit... 0.90 mm or even 0.95mm if need be.

The dial indicator method doesn't account for pump wear... so sometimes a bit more advance is needed even in normal circumstances.  Having said that... I'm a bit surprised that it's running this poorly at 0.80mm... as per your earlier thead you're sure you had the keyway on the IP at around 11 o'clock when you put the pump sprocket back on and locked the pump?

[ffgb]

I made sure everything was lined up, even the keyway at 11'o clock.  I will definitely try .95 to 1.00mm.  I know it will run better.  It ran great before I took the pump out.  It still smoked.  I did a compression test and it is still good, but I am going to change out the valve stem seals and headgasket and headbolts with arp units in the next couple of days in hopes to almost stop the smoking entirely!  At least my pump isn't leaking anymore!

[Rabbit on Roids]

i doubt a head gasket and studs are going to make it quit smoking. 99% of these things smoke from bad injectors or some sort of fuel pump problem.

[ffgb]

I am at a loss right now.  I checked my timing on my pump 3 times, it is at .98mm.  Everything is at TDC, the camlock is in place, the injection lock pin in place.  The car will still not idle!  I have to give some pedal to it, and also it dies when I push in the cold start valve.  The car ran fine before I pulled the IP.  I resealed the pump and did the Gov-mod, now it will not run correctly and smokes way to much!
Please help

[ffgb]

Can the fuel filter be clogged?

[ffgb]

UPDATE:  I ran my motor with straight Diesel Kleen as a purge.  My car still smokes but not as much as before, but still smokes.  My car idles only with the cold start valve pulled all the way out and stumbles then dies with it pushed in all the way.  The smoke color is bluish white.  What was weird was while doing the Diesel Kleen purge, I was revving the motor up and down then ALL OF A SUDDEN the motor screamed toward redline and stayed pinned at MAX rpm, I immediately turned the ignition off to stop fuel flow.  The motor stopped in about 2 seconds.  I started it back up and everything is fine as in idling, that was really weird, I wonder if it is the GOV-MOD?
Thanks

[Vincent Waldon]

wonder if it is the GOV-MOD?

Pretty much has to be internal to your injection pump for sure...

[ffgb]

Like what internally?  Everything looked good inside.  I worked in a clean area, so I know that there is no dirt inside.  I am just baffled because I thought that after resealing a pump, that it should run the same if not better.  What would you recommend?  Getting my pump and injectors tested just to make sure? 

[8v-of-fury]

Did it run fine before doing the "GOV-MOD"? Is the problem only now after you have done this mod?

if you answer yes to either or both of these, then you didn't do something right when you did the mod.

what spring in the cage did you shim?

Starting from the left: Idle (small), intermediate (medium) and main (long) spring. The shaft on the right is the throttle shaft.


I have heard very good things about only shimming the MAIN spring 1/4-5/16" and it working out great. Any attempts to mess with the intermediate spring and you run in to drive-ability issues.

It is missing the littlest spring in the pic, but the biggest spring on the left is the main spring. Put 1/4" of washers in it and let it rip. If you shim the other springs you will have driveability issues. If you shim/eliminate the intermediate spring it will have dead spots in the middle RPM ranges and have weird pedal feel on hills. JUST SHIM THE MAIN SPRING AND BE HAPPY . Good luck.

Main spring is the high RPM cutoff, if you're trying to raise your fueling cutoff it's the one you want to shim (or even better find a stiffer spring!!)

Intermediate spring makes the car driveable.  Without it you'll have a REALLY hard time driving the car.  Its total movement is practically nothing compared to the main spring too so it really isn't "limiting" anything.

During normal driving the Intermediate spring is what is controlling the car - you NEED it to though.

Just to clarify you on the Governor Mod. Maybe it is what is causing your problems?

[ffgb]

I put 1/4" stack of washers on the mainspring just like in the pic.
Essentially it was 4 small washers.
I didn't think that the gov mod had anything to do with idling, especially with car stalling with the cold start valve pushed in.

[8v-of-fury]

Hmm, well if you only modded the main spring..

Did it run correctly before doing this mod?

[ffgb]

Yeah, it definitely ran better.  Now, it just smokes bluish-white.  Before, it smokes right at start up, but pretty much went away after it warmed up, but now, it is just constant.  What I don't understand is at .98mm IP timing, that it will stall/stumble with the cold start valve pushed all the way in.  It runs better since the Diesel Kleen purge, about half the bottle, so I am thinking it might be an injector issue, because now it smokes a lot less.