If the torque drops off at the same rate without the 5,200 RPM cut-off then I'd likely see 148nhp at 6,000 RPM. That's still usable power in a long gear pull but as you said eliminating the fuel governor completely combined with a 10mm head, 935racer's cam, intercooling, and maybe a more efficient & larger turbo
should reduce the rate of torque dropping off during higher RPM.. so an extra 20nhp (160nhp) is plausible
If my Gtech calibration is accurate then that might translate into approximately 180 wheel hp. Still need a dyno to verify Gtech #s.
I am glad that I'm not making much torque for the hp, which is easier on the engine (rods have 290 wheel torque limit from what I gather) and so it leaves room for more safe hp. On the other hand, with a single large turbo I won't have much torque in the lower end and that may reduce the fun in daily driving.
Compound turbocharging seems to be the way to go, but that won't happen too soon as I don't have much 'entertainment funds' for the car. While we do the turbo swap we also want to get prechambers ceramic coated, which is cheap. Then there are a few other things we'd like to add, like finally port & polishing the exhaust ports. This means I should get a second back-up vehicle because I work nearly everyday. A friend has a 1.6NA Rabbit that he may sell in a couple months, it starts up like a champ every time while barely needing glowplugs. Good power too. That'll likely be my temporary vehicle.
I'm really itching to get an FMIC installed but 935racer does TIG welding and he prefers to wait until the turbo upgrade because of the differently positioned turbo, which may require a reweld in FMIC piping (only on the hot side).
I can fill my a/w intercooler with ice water (because it does not circulate it will melt quickly) during each dyno run though, so chances are we can still do a dyno with this GT20 turbo soon enough. Instead of waiting for the FMIC I may consider making a ghetto water system with a plastic reservoir in a hatch and perhaps a fuel pump from a EFI big block American car as Brett suggested. A large radiator is cheap and easy to upgrade too. If there's potential for the a/w to be more efficient than FMIC by upgradnig the water pump again later, then I may just keep it and not need the FMIC anymore.