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#240 by zagarus on 24 Mar, 2006 17:28
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i say fender, its not a truck, or make it DTM style, like on the audis, coming out of the top of the rear quarter panel!
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#241 by 935racer on 24 Mar, 2006 19:49
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I'll add a couple small things here, the o2j that brett has is going to need some work, I would reccomend a different R&P rather than a 5th gear swap. I've driven these close ratio trannys and I hate them, as soon as you shift you need to shift again, I remember in my 16vt I was always skipping gears, and cruising around town doing 70km/hr in 5th gear at liek 2 grand. Peloquin definately, while I have the case open for that it would be easy to put in a differnt R&P and powdercoat the cases! Stock axles will not work this tranny, and the stock cv cages will blow up every weekend anyways, I got really really fast at swapping axles in my 16vt. I am getting DSS stage 3 axles for my truck this time round.
The exhaust idea... Not so great, the best thing would be to make the one straight pipe going out the fender and than a different downpipe going to a 3inch exhaust. I'll build you a nice exhaust that doesnt rattle, that 3inch one I just cut out of your car was pretty gnarly. oh yeah the reason the exhaust valve is no good is cause you have a 3"turbine outlet and that exhaust if flying outa there, than its gonna hit this flat wall, that the problem right there, its liek driving your car into a brick wall, just crazy back pressure instead, and after all this back pressure trying to squeeze that hot gas into a 2'' pipe is going to double your trouble.
It will be far less hassle to spend the 20 minutes to swap DP's that fit nicley and don't leak. -
#242 by malone on 24 Mar, 2006 21:00
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With the LDA disabled it makes under 100HP, so I figured a 2" exhaust or even a MK3 VR6 exhaust won't be too restrictive. The big exhaust valve will be hard wired to the LDA switch, meaning it'll always open whenever power is demanded.
But even with under 100HP I can see the back-asswards flow potentially being a problem with the valve in the way, so you may be right.
Physically swapping DPs is fine with me. I won't mind using the fender exhaust on a daily basis. Will switch to full exhaust only if I'm issued a VI or for emissions testing in 2008. Smoke (after cold start) is not a problem with the LDA turned down. -
#243 by malone on 24 Mar, 2006 21:07
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Here's the cold smoke video as promised. I was holding the camera with my left hand and shifted/steered with my right hand.
Click here to watch 1619TD-Cold-Smoke-video-1
I rolled down the hill with the engine off and then started the engine & began videotaping at about the same time. This is about 5 seconds after leaving the front of my house.
6 seconds later I started accelerating and the "big bang" is visible. The smoke is cut down significantly after accelerating down the street. This smoke isn't as bad as it used to be during Oct - Jan. I wish I videotaped my cold-start smoke back then :lol: -
#244 by wyldman on 24 Mar, 2006 21:08
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In most Canadian provinces,you only need one noise reduction device on the car.
A turbo (or two
) is classified as a noise reduction device.
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#245 by malone on 24 Mar, 2006 21:13
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Here's the second video, also taken today. I did lousy camera handling this time. At the beginning you can hear how quickly the engine fires up.
Click here to watch 1619TD-Cold-Smoke-video-2 -
#246 by wyldman on 24 Mar, 2006 21:28
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The smoke isn't too bad.How long would you have to let it warm up for to be able to drive away with no smoke ?
Have you tried backing down the fuel.I get similar smoke (not as much though),when running lots of fuel and the engine is cold.Low timing will cause it too.I wonder if with the lower compression and added fuel you need a lot more timing ? -
#247 by malone on 25 Mar, 2006 06:19
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Quote from: "wyldman"
Have you tried backing down the fuel.I get similar smoke (not as much though),when running lots of fuel and the engine is cold.Low timing will cause it too.I wonder if with the lower compression and added fuel you need a lot more timing ?
Yes we have tried these. I had a brand new set of OEM injectors (now roughly 3,000km on them), and another set of injectors with new aftermarket "GTD" nozzles on them. I also have a NA pump with unknown mileage and a TD pump with under 6,000km. We have tried pump timing ranging from 0.80mm to 1.21mm. We also turned down fuel all the way to the point where it felt like it put out 20HP and we also turned it up all the way. None of these combinations made a slight improvement in cold smoke. The cold smoke is likely unavoidable due to the low compression or according to chrissev's theory, the 1.9's prechamber cup port is not aligned 100% correctly on top of the 1.6 piston's notch.. I'm not sure if that is true. If I ceramic coated the head more thoroughly the big smoke may be reduced.
Re: your other question. Note that 0:21 to 0:23 (seconds) in the first cold start video there is a puff of smoke from a gear change. The TD continues to smoke like that until optimal operating temp is reached in about 15 minutes. The puff of smoke is more apparent after cold starting in heavy Vancouver traffic where there's a lot of stop 'n go driving. More apparent when starting in 1st gear after idling with low EGT. A few seconds later the smoke is no longer visible (from the driver's seat) while the engine is constantly under load or back to just idling.
As long as the water temp stays at or above 180 degrees F it's smoke free in all cases. -
#248 by greggearhead on 14 Apr, 2006 13:51
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Any more info on your compound setup, malone?
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#249 by phil_j on 14 Apr, 2006 15:58
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Quote from: "malone
The car will still be street legal however. I'm thinking of reinstalling the stock exhaust system (under 2") that fits easily with no rattle and then teeing its downpipe to the big exhaust pipe, which is controlled by a valve. The valve will be wired together with my max. fuel & boost switch. Wiring will be extremely simple, about 30 minutes to complete.
Leaving the switch off inside the car uses stock fully muffled exhaust that is quiet and street legal. Flick the switch to "on" and the LDA, boost valve, & big exhaust opens up more within a couple seconds. More boost, fuel, and exhaust flow all at once.
...snip...
Pros of the dual exhaust system:
* Easy to install
* Less prone to rattling
* Street legal with no compromises between regular driving and racing
* Cheaper in pipe costs. I.e. one big straight pipe and a few 2" bends for downpipe instead of a complete mandrel bent 2.5" or 3.0" system + aftermarket muffler.
..snip..
I'm open to discussions..[/quote
Interesting idea. I'm not sure how much of a concern this is for you, or if there's a way around it, but it reminded me of something I read regarding vehicle modifications....
quote: "The majority of problems with exhaust systems after noise usually consist of loose, broken or missing parts. Your vehicle will be rejected for these reasons, as well as having a cutout installed (muffler bypass), if any part of the exhaust system is closer than 48 mm to any part of the fuel or brake system or any combustible material and is not protected by shields, or could burn an occupant while entering or leaving the vehicle.
The tailpipe must be terminated so that exhaust fumes are expelled beyond the outside perimeter of the vehicle, and the termination must not point upward."
I've seen lots of hot rods/muscle cars with straight pipes with a bolt on cap on the end, and a "T" to a full exhaust system. As far as I know, these aren't legal...so I would think having something that was even easier, ie just a dash mounted switch to go from full exhaust to out the fender, wouldn't pass either.
I could be wrong, and not trying to rain on your parade, but I would personally rather know about it beforehand than have to change it afterwards. :? -
#250 by malone on 14 Apr, 2006 16:13
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Thanks for the heads up. I did go through Aircare twice and no one raised an eyebrow at my straight pipe w/ no muffler. The car was louder than average too. A couple employees did however on both occasions try to crawl under my car to check for the catalytic converter, which seemed to be their only concern.
You may be right that a switchable exhaust system may not pass. An exhaust pipe protruding out of the fender will definitely get their attention. Regardless, my next Aircare is in 2008 (assuming I keep the MK3 body) and I've decided to just "permanently" run one type of exhaust at a time. Passenger Performance may fabricate two complete systems; one routed like factory, and the other a straight pipe out of the fender. They can be swapped in a day when needed. I may run the fender exit exhaust daily with only two things temporarily stopping it: A VI from the police or Aircare in 2008. -
#251 by phil_j on 14 Apr, 2006 16:25
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I've talked to the guys at aircare as well. Should be OK without the cat, as you've found, and they shouldn't be concerned about a muffler, as it isn't an emissions device. I brought it up more for VI reasons.
I'm swapping a 1.9td into a samurai, and was going to go straight pipe, but decided on a straight through muffler, just to look the part if/when I do get pulled over, which I think is bound to happen driving that thing around :cry:
I figured having an exhaust out the fender would draw attention as well, making the VI legality of it more relavent.
by the way, those twin turbo pics.... :shock: :twisted:
VERY COOL!! can't wait to see the outcome ! -
#252 by malone on 14 Apr, 2006 16:46
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Update:
I mentioned that a 52HP NA pump was swapped into my MK3 in January or February while the modified pump is supposedly going back to Giles for an upgrade. The engine still started up and ran like new, even after the abuses last Fall with the extensively modified LDA pump. However, this month I had problems with the water pump. Overheating occured and my cylinder walls are now scored. This is why I bought a 1984 Rabbit 1.6D a week ago to temporarily use as a daily driver.
On the bright side, the 1.6TD block was stock unlike the rest of the engine/car. It's unlikely the block + 020 transmission will hold up to the ultimate power with the upcoming boost + fueling increase. I've always been bugged thinking "we should have done something to the block at the beginning," now here's the chance. DV8STR's O2J transmission is also in the shop waiting to be installed.
The 1.6/1.9 engine had approximately 10,000km (6,200mi) on it until the coolant problem. We've gone quite far in terms of engine build so I don't want to flush it down the toilet. The power the 1.6/1.9 had with the modified pump was mind-blowing and I can see a lot more potential with better airflow/fuel flow. fspGTD also made my custom fuel nozzles this year and I've got to put it to the test!
Importantly, I received news that I landed a new permanent job within the RCMP. Finally! I've been waiting for that for almost a year. I will buy a new daily driver that will be at best mildly modified (we'll see :lol:), and the 1.6/1.9 project will be my second car/track racer.
Even though a daily driver will help me ensure the 1.6/1.9's longevity by not forcing to drive it daily while it should have received any maintenance it needs, we still need to put a little more effort in keeping it healthy this time around. The basic coolant issue was ridiculous and could have been avoided in the first place. The next engine build should be done properly with new water pump etc.
The 1.6 block may be bored out for 1.9L AAZ pistons, and custom rods installed, making it a 1.7L. The AAZ pistons are also better suited to my 1.9L TD head. We've seen andy2 bend his rods. To mate AAZ pistons to the 1.6 crank, custom rods are required, so TDI rods are out of the question. Also, I'm not interested in the 1.9 crank + TDI rods + 1.9 piston assembly. I prefer to retain the 1.6 crank, which may be nitrated or cyroed.
The new daily driver may be a TDI. I have the business of chip tuning TDIs so it's nice to have a demo TDI vehicle. I'm also going to shop around for a new home this year, preferably with a garage (currently don't have garage space). These are factors that may slow down the 1.6/1.9 progress this year only. However, finally having a garage will mean good things for my diesel vehicles.
My 1997 MK3 needs paint ($50) and suspension replacement (free, FK coilovers are under lifetime warranty), which could be done in the meantime.
BTW I still admire IDIs more than TDIs because of the simplicity and how effective they are with performance.
I'm debating on whether to keep my 1997 MK3 shell or sell it with a stock 1.6TD, and move the 1.6/1.9 to a clean German Rabbit. MK1s feel a lot more tossable; more fun to drive. The -600lb weight advantage is nice, too.
edit: I'd also like to note that during some hard (est. 170-190bhp) runs, my coolant tank spat out coolant even after replacing the tank and cap. It looks like that Raceware head studs and the 1.9 headgasket cannot hold the head and block together sufficiently. So a $75 USD copper headgasket and/or o-ringing the head and/or block will be a good idea to keep the motor solid. -
#253 by malone on 14 Apr, 2006 17:15
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^ Holy long-winded post batman. :lol:Quote from: "phil_j"
I've talked to the guys at aircare as well. Should be OK without the cat, as you've found, and they shouldn't be concerned about a muffler, as it isn't an emissions device. I brought it up more for VI reasons.
I'm swapping a 1.9td into a samurai, and was going to go straight pipe, but decided on a straight through muffler, just to look the part if/when I do get pulled over, which I think is bound to happen driving that thing around :cry:
I figured having an exhaust out the fender would draw attention as well, making the VI legality of it more relavent.
by the way, those twin turbo pics.... :shock: :twisted:
VERY COOL!! can't wait to see the outcome !
Actually, my 1997 Golf wouldn't pass without a cat.. they did check to ensure that I have it (I kinda do), but they didn't bother to check for a muffler etc.
You're right about the VI so your post is valid about my switchable dual exhaust system idea. I guess it's still better to run one exhaust system at a time.. physically swap them if needed
Cheers, -
#254 by greggearhead on 14 Apr, 2006 17:24
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Great to get an update and hear about the job and plans you have for the future. Bummer about the cooling issue. Good luck on house-hunting, a garage was more important than square footage when I was searching! Probably similar for you...
On the crankshaft, I am leaning towards polishing, shot-peening, and cryoing, in that order. What experiences do people have with custom rods on high output VW Diesels? I have only talked to VW Gas guys and those rods hold up with just minor modding to a lot of power, but I imagine the BMEPs are much lower. Dunno, just wondering.
Keep us informed, you are a real inspiration. Any more information on the compound setup? I am leaning heavily towards that myself.