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Diesel Auto ??
by
aidan
on 11 Jan, 2010 14:20
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Couple of questions about the auto gearbox that came in the mk2 golf.
I'm struggling to find one, does anyone know if any of VWs diesel starter motor internals will fit in the automatic starter casing?
The engine intended to be used is the 1Y, n/a equivalent of the AAZ, and read there may be problems even mounting the starter with that engine?
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#1
by
burn_your_money
on 11 Jan, 2010 17:31
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You will not be able to mount the diesel starter to a 1.9AAZ. I have never seen the 1Y so I don't know if the back of the block is similar. I actually used an angle grinder to try and clearance the back of the block. I had to completely remove the oil drain bung and a lot more material. I still wasn't close and I felt and I was starting to seriously comprimise the strength of the block. You would have to use a gas casing, that one does fit (it's tight) and the oil bung does need to be removed.
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#2
by
aidan
on 12 Jan, 2010 02:16
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That has saved me some money thanks! The 1Y is non-turbo, I haven't actually got it yet but have to go and pick it up this week. I suspect it'll have a shorter bolt and washer where the drain usually is.
I take it the existing starter does not have the guts to start a diesel?
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#3
by
burn_your_money
on 12 Jan, 2010 08:00
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I never really tried. I bought a reman gas starter just to see if it would fit and it did. Then I used jumper cables (crappy connections) and tried to turn it over. It wouldn't. It would never start it when it's -25 out and it gets a lot colder then that up here so I scrapped that plan. If the back of the block is different it may work. Have a look at the difference between a AAZ and 1.6 block and you'll see what I mean.
You could always use the 4 speed from a Passat or something.
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#4
by
aidan
on 12 Jan, 2010 09:48
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Fortunately we don't have to deal with such severe weather here.
Done some research and it seems the stock starter is 1.1kw, whereas the AAZ is 1.8kw. The Volvo starter I have is 1.4kw, which might be worth a try (if the parts fit) if the starter was at the front and easy to keep swapping out, but with its location, its definitely do it right first time.
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#5
by
burn_your_money
on 12 Jan, 2010 12:33
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It's not too bad to drop the starter, just make sure to disconnect the battery cable at the battery first
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#6
by
aidan
on 24 Jan, 2010 09:02
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#7
by
burn_your_money
on 24 Jan, 2010 10:34
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Yes the 1.6 D/TD engine is a lot different. Rather then being flat like those two it has an arch in the back that the starter fits into. Hopefully someone has a picture.
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#8
by
aidan
on 25 Jan, 2010 12:01
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Thanks, what I meant to ask there was is the 1.6 diesel block different to the 1.8 petrol.
I'm hoping I can get something to fit, wish i'd bought a 1.6 now.
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#9
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 25 Jan, 2010 12:11
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the 1.8 gasser is different.
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#10
by
aidan
on 31 Jan, 2010 12:57
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Another quick question, why are there 2 spade connections on the starter? I've been working on the car, not noticing the 2 when disconnecting everything originally, so don't know which one is to engage the starter?
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#11
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 31 Jan, 2010 13:18
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the one closest to the transmission engages the starter. the other one sends juice to the cold start injector.
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#12
by
aidan
on 31 Jan, 2010 13:23
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ah thank you, mine is/was a carb engine so doesn't have that. Won't do any damage trying both terminals then?
Wasn't sure what would happen!
As mine is an auto, the location isn't as you say, it'd either be nearest the block or nearest the firewall
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#13
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 31 Jan, 2010 13:29
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crap, i forgot about that try the one closest to the block..
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#14
by
aidan
on 31 Jan, 2010 13:56
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Yes you were right, tried both, the one you said engages starter,
BUT, horrible grinding/whining noise from it!
Its not a case of it starting then grinding, just grinds as soon as you turn the key, like it is spinning without extending out to the flywheel?