Got the engine appart, crank mod?

[TD_vento]

Hi there, due to melting my engine due to blown head gasket I have got myself a new block.

The crank is damaged on the lip from the famous poor design of the pulley and key fit.  

I would like to swap for a tdi style pulley.  What do i have to do to make it fit??
The crank will be out so any work can be carried out.

thanks

[QuickTD]

My procedure is to weld up the old keyway, weld up the outside diameter and the face of the crank nose. The welding is done with a TIG welder and 4340 filler rod. I weld it up in stages so as not to overheat the first journal. The crank is then placed in a lathe with a steady rest on the first main bearing journal. I machine the face and recut the 60º chamfer in the threaded hole in the end. I remove the steady rest and using a live centre in the newly machined centre hole to support the crank, I machine the outside diameter back to a proper press fit in the pulley. I then place the crank on a milling machine, gripping it in a vise by the 2 machined surfaces on the front bobweight. I then cut the "flat" on the nose of the crank. I measure the pulley that will be used (they can vary a bit in size) and make the flat a slight interference fit as well to insure that it goes on tight.

[TD_vento]

That does sound like specialist work and i haven't got the tools or experience, i think taking that to a specialist would cost quite a bit.  I have a good crank so ill just throw that in instead.  Does anybody have the part  number for the uprated crank bolt?

thanks for the reply quickTd  

[QuickTD]

The "new" crank bolt is part number N 905 771 01.

[TD_vento]

Nice one QuickGT

I need some tourqe data for the conrods if anyone has a manual.

thanks

[QuickTD]

The conrod bolts are torque to yield, they must be replaced if removed. The torque spec is 22ft/lbs plus 1/4 turn. The mains are also TTY, always replace. Tighten to 48ft/lbs plus 1/4 turn.

I would recommend purchasing a manual at your earliest opportunity, there are a fair number of "oddities" to VW diesel engines, making the manual is your most important tool...

[TD_vento]

Hmm I have tried it once and i droped a shell.  Although i think it was more of a incorrect tourqe values than reusing the bolts.

The rod bolts are like 2.70 pounds which is like 5$ each.

The main ends bolts are 80 pence about 1.4$ each.

Stealership rapes you  :x

[TD_vento]

Forgot to mention, I was looking at the block with the crank out now and I noticed the oil squirters, can these be installed to 2l 16v engines?  I dont think the 9a 16v has them and im using forced induction on it.

[QuickTD]

Late model rod bolts are cheaper than older (pre-'95). The old style rods have dowel pins in the caps and take a rather normal looking bolt, oddly enough, these cost $12cdn each. The new style rods have no dowels and have a precision ground portion on the shank of the bolt that aligns the rod cap, for some reason these "special" bolts are only $3 each, go figure...

 The main bolts could be replaced with standard class 12.9 socket head cap screws, early AAZ engines used non TTY bolts so I don't see it being a problem, I've done it myself. The torque for the "normal" type cap screws is 48ft/lbs (same as TTY but without the 90º step).

[Laurentian]

I bought an '97 1.9TD two weeks ago but have not gotten around to getting it towed home.
Having not seen it up close yet does the '97 model really have a mod. to prevent this loosening pully?
I pick-up on this revision once on vwquebec.ca
( that this problem was solved at factory on the later 1.9TD's )
Thanks,
Hugh

[QuickTD]

My 97 is the same as any other 1.9TD. The first "fixed" engines were the 1Z TDI's. Factory rebuilt 1.9TD's sometimes come with the new style crank and pulley, but not always.

[Laurentian]

OK, thanks.
Tear apart time

[TD_vento]

Ok I got the scored engine and the replacment engine apart.  Im using the crank from my burned engine as it is not damaged unlike the replacment engine I picked from junk yard.

Due to the excess heat my old crank seems to have been discoloured where the bearings go both on the rod and main journals.  They are smooth tho but have that light yellowish colour.

I will take some pics tomorrow,  I was thinking if it is worth having the new replacment block honed since i have everything out?  Would i need new piston rings if I just hone it?  The bores look in good condition.
Im not brave enough to put the crank back together so Im taking it to the
engine shop for them to do it, I think the crank might need some polishing maybe.

[QuickTD]

I was thinking if it is worth having the new replacment block honed since i have everything out? Would i need new piston rings if I just hone it?

Any time you remove the pistons from the bores you need to deglaze the cylinders and replace the rings. Old rings are worn to fit the bores, if their orientation is changed the engine will consume oil and have poor compression. Your machine shop can likely hone the bores and clean the block to remove the honing grit before assembly. New rings are pretty reasonable, less than $100CDN for a complete set last time I purchased them.

[TD_vento]

I got the bolts finally, decided to leave the pistons in.  To inspection the head needs a skim, it has wraped due to teh heat.  the new gasket i got has 2 notches on it, I presume with the decking of teh head the 2 hole gasket will be the right one or does it depend on how much material is shaved off the head?  the old gasket is the 1 hole one leaving me to believe its the original gasket and that the head has never shaved off before?